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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #81
Ok so today I decided to test one of the speakers out so I turned my sub off and plugged in the right door speaker and it plays the vocals and mid range sound pretty well. I am impressed that it is only being driven by my head unit and manages to slightly vibrate the door.

Definitely an upgrade over stock speakers. I am waiting for my insulation roller to come in, I will do the left side tomorrow. It is no where near as powerful as my sub in the trunk but definitely fills in sound compared to the other speakers. Maybe I could add rear door speakers too


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Discussion Starter #82
Here is a demonstration of the right door speaker and the the other 4 dash speakers with the sub powered off:


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1993 300D 2.5 "Elsie"
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Dang, you're now ahead of me on this...lol! I am still waiting for my new head unit and have no idea where it is. Hopefully just stuck in customes for a bit. Maybe Monday I will break down and hook up to the Pioneer. Kind of excited now. Sounds really good, BTW, especially considering you probably recorded with your phone and I am listening on headphones through my tablet.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Dang, you're now ahead of me on this...lol! I am still waiting for my new head unit and have no idea where it is. Hopefully just stuck in customes for a bit. Maybe Monday I will break down and hook up to the Pioneer. Kind of excited now. Sounds really good, BTW, especially considering you probably recorded with your phone and I am listening on headphones through my tablet.

Okay both speakers in I am beyond impressed with the result of them. Thank you for recommending these to me! I would like to know if that black material I peeled back is supposed to be insulation. I still haven’t received my roller for the insulation. So I’m waiting for that to apply it. I was wondering how will I reapply that black material and that clear white material to the door? Do I have too?
When driving with the speakers turned up there are many rattles in the door I will try to eliminate all of them.



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Glad it's working out so well!

The plastic, of course, is a moisture barrier. The black felt probably provides a small amount of insulating ability, but the primary purpose is probably to provide padding for the door card so it doesn't rattle or squeak against the door. I had no idea it would be possible to peel that felt off the plastic without tearing it. And speaking of the plastic, it looks like yours has never been pulled off before. Mine barely sticks to the door at this point...
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Glad it's working out so well!

The plastic, of course, is a moisture barrier. The black felt probably provides a small amount of insulating ability, but the primary purpose is probably to provide padding for the door card so it doesn't rattle or squeak against the door. I had no idea it would be possible to peel that felt off the plastic without tearing it. And speaking of the plastic, it looks like yours has never been pulled off before. Mine barely sticks to the door at this point...
So if I do damage the moisture barrier is it mandatory to replace it? I don’t think my doors have ever come off.


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I would try to keep it intact as much as possible. It actually would be pretty hard to damage it to the point where it wouldn't work anymore. If you do get an accidental tear, perhaps some duct tape could hold it together. You definitely don't want to remove it or the door cards will ikely get wet and come apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I would try to keep it intact as much as possible. It actually would be pretty hard to damage it to the point where it wouldn't work anymore. If you do get an accidental tear, perhaps some duct tape could hold it together. You definitely don't want to remove it or the door cards will ikely get wet and come apart.
Ok thanks for the clarification, I will try my hardest to keep it all intact. Lastly. I will put insulation on the doors. I will cut it up into little squares it is very similar to your material I got 24 sqft of it. Do you know the most effective area other the doors. Should I put it behind the rear seats on the sheet metal. Because that area vibrates a lot when everything is out of the car and the subwoofer is blaring.


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1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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I would use mylar packing tape on a rip on the moisture barrier, not duct tape.

when it rains, water gets into the door, the moisture barrier prevents the door liner from getting damp and mildewed. its also a good idea about once a year to ensure the drains along the bottom of the door stay open and clear so the water doesn't puddle in the door
 

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Discussion Starter #91
I would use mylar packing tape on a rip on the moisture barrier, not duct tape.

when it rains, water gets into the door, the moisture barrier prevents the door liner from getting damp and mildewed. its also a good idea about once a year to ensure the drains along the bottom of the door stay open and clear so the water doesn't puddle in the door
I have go most of the moisture barrier on the door but it isn’t completely sticking it is just on the door. I didn’t cause any damage to it. All I have is congenital packing tape, double sided tape, gorilla tape, and electrical tapes. I will use the double sided tape it’s really thin.




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Discussion Starter #92

I used double sided tape and some old adhesive was left over.

Left side door panel is back on
I’ll door right and insulate other areas of the car tomorrow.


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Discussion Starter #93
Floorboards and the rear doors would probably be my next steps.
I am just wondering, do you mean under the floor mats? I look at the factory foam carpet and it has extremely thick insulation under the driver and passenger side floor mat. Or do you mean under the rear seats, transmission tunnel rear fenders, I have lots of material left, I was being effective on the doors, so it did the job and conserved as much material as possible.


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Discussion Starter #94


This is where I am at right now. Ive done the front doors and the area under the rear seats. Now I’m going to do the floorboard. I found a coffee spill which is probably 8-20+ years old. I am cleaning it out with carpet cleaner. Also the trunk is a massive issue. I have seen the gas tank is located behind the trunk linear and causes vibrations and sucks up a lot of the sound. Is there a way to deal with the gas tank “black hole”?


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Discussion Starter #95
Ok I have made a good amount of progress but I have 4 sheets left out of 23. I have done both front doors and most under the front and rear seat. I will probably use the other 4 for the trunk. I made both sides of the car fairly even for good results. I have noticed the rear fenders and gas tank have an insane amount of resonance. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to put some insulation on the gas tank. It sucks up a lot of bass!



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Discussion Starter #96
Also here are some pics of the door insulation, I am not competing in a audio competition that’s why I am not completely covering the car with insulation I am just try to reduce resonance and improve the sound dynamics of my car, do you guys think I need more on the floor board? Or is it ready to be put back together. When I blast my speaker system the trunk of the car vibrates like there is no tomorrow. My neighbors can’t stand me and people are always staring at me when I drive by, it is extreme loud and annoying. I put insulation on most of the deck lid and some behind the rear license plate a long time ago, worked a little.



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Discussion Starter #97
Hey guys minor issues I have run into I am trying to reduce this vibration I am basically all out of material
These rear vents seem to be causing the issue

I don’t want to cover them with insulation cause they are there for a reason, I’m guessing the have something to do with air circulation and pressure in the cabin, when you close and open doors and the trunk, is there a way I can stop the from making my car sound like a tin can?
Here is a link to what it sounds like wear headphones to hear the lower frequencies:



this is some cheaper remains of insulation I had lying around is it safe to put this stuff on the gas tank cover?


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I am not sure about the vents other than I wouldn't think you would be able to hear those inside the cabin. You can try a silicone license plate frame if you're still getting rattles there.

The deadener is spread pretty thin, but it still should be helping. I would try and get more on the sides in the trunk. I also did the spare tire well. And yes, I don't know how much it helped, but I did put strips on the fuel tank. Just did the "valleys."

I have a favor to ask you. Do you recall which wires were + and - for the speaker wires, if you used what came with them? I took a mental note when I put them in, but when I put the new head unit in today I couldn't remember. I thought the plain wires were + and stripped were -, but I think I may have it backwards. The door speakers are working, but seem a bit weak, even for just having 25 watts going to them. No worries if you don't remember. I can just rewire them tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I am not sure about the vents other than I wouldn't think you would be able to hear those inside the cabin. You can try a silicone license plate frame if you're still getting rattles there.

The deadener is spread pretty thin, but it still should be helping. I would try and get more on the sides in the trunk. I also did the spare tire well. And yes, I don't know how much it helped, but I did put strips on the fuel tank. Just did the "valleys."

I have a favor to ask you. Do you recall which wires were + and - for the speaker wires, if you used what came with them? I took a mental note when I put them in, but when I put the new head unit in today I couldn't remember. I thought the plain wires were + and stripped were -, but I think I may have it backwards. The door speakers are working, but seem a bit weak, even for just having 25 watts going to them. No worries if you don't remember. I can just rewire them tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks!
Ok I might get my hands on more deadener for the trunk and rear doors I put the rest of my car back together, i could also do under the driver and passenger floor mats if I have extra left. Insulation really works in the cabin, totally worth it, doors aren’t Boomy but have decent mid bass, I am impressed for just 25 watts going to each! I don’t remember the wires exactly but I am pretty sure striped is negative and normal is positive, if it’s really weak they are probably reversed, just switch em and if they sound better you probably made a common error, good luck!


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Discussion Starter #100
I am not sure about the vents other than I wouldn't think you would be able to hear those inside the cabin. You can try a silicone license plate frame if you're still getting rattles there.

The deadener is spread pretty thin, but it still should be helping. I would try and get more on the sides in the trunk. I also did the spare tire well. And yes, I don't know how much it helped, but I did put strips on the fuel tank. Just did the "valleys."

I have a favor to ask you. Do you recall which wires were + and - for the speaker wires, if you used what came with them? I took a mental note when I put them in, but when I put the new head unit in today I couldn't remember. I thought the plain wires were + and stripped were -, but I think I may have it backwards. The door speakers are working, but seem a bit weak, even for just having 25 watts going to them. No worries if you don't remember. I can just rewire them tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks!
Also if your not satisfied an external amp can drive the speakers harder.
 
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