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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey forum, long time no post, I am back and in need for advice. So I I have made a great amount of progress on my speaker system:
Stereo: JVC KD-X340bts
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Speakers: Front and Rear Dash: Four 4" ESX Quantum QE120's (Powered by Kenwood KAC-304 4 Channel Amp) All Pushing about a Combined power of 200w rms, 400w max
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Sub woofer in trunk: Dual Skar IX-12"s (Powered by Jbl Club 5501 Mono Channel Amp) Pushing about 500w rms, 1000w max
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I know some of you are gonna get mad that I ruined my rear deck, but with the cover it looks factory
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So this is where I am at now:
Situation #1
So I am deciding to put the 4 channel amp in the trunk as putting it in the passenger foot well was a temporary thought.
I ran my sub woofer power, ground and speaker wires under my passenger side door sills, and the sub speaker wires on drivers side, so there's is no space to add more wire there, so I might need the go through the transmission hump location wherever that is. My 4 channel speaker amplifier is hooked up to the factory speaker wires where the radio connects. So it goes from radio--->4 ch amp--->factory speaker wires at radio location--->Front and rear dash speakers. I am fine extending the wires but do you guys think everything will be ok if I run the speaker wires from the trunk to the radio speaker wire harness, or is that too long, I am using 16 gauge speaker wire.

Situation #2
Now I am stuck on the door speakers, so when I added the 4ch amp I unplugged the door speaker amp in the trunk behind the passenger rear fender to prevent overpowering it. Correct me if I am wrong I believe it taps into the rear speakers for audio signal. So I know the door speakers are not that powerful, but I remember they actually had some noticeable bass. I have already added two amps (one for car speaker and one for sub woofer in trunk) but I don't want to add another. Is there a way to use the factory amp and factory door speakers with an aftermarket system? Also I know most of you will say I have such powerful subs in the trunk, but I really want to slightly balance the bass more cause the front and rear dash speakers are tuned to play only high notes and the sub is tuned to play very low, I need something in between.
 

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Premium Member
1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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7,156 Posts
The active bass front door speaker amp inputs are tied to the dashboard speakers. That amp has a heavy EQ built in to compensate for the small woofers and their enclosure.

Another way to run wires is along the passenger side of the hump, under the carpet. You might have to remove the passenger seat and rear seat to get wires in there.
 

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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #3
The active bass front door speaker amp inputs are tied to the dashboard speakers. That amp has a heavy EQ built in to compensate for the small woofers and their enclosure.

Another way to run wires is along the passenger side of the hump, under the carpet. You might have to remove the passenger seat and rear seat to get wires in there.
Do you know the rms power of the door speakers, I have the active bass system.
 

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1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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7,156 Posts
I don't. they are a 6 ohm speaker, I think, i doubt they are more than 15-20 watts peak. if you have a powered sub, you have way more bass than those can even hope to fill in. I've heard of people mounting small sub drivers in the ActiveBass door boxes to beef up the front midbass, with mixed results..
 

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2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1995 E320 Cabriolet, 1980 TR8
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The active bass amplifier is a 12 volt buss, bridge style amplifier which means that the non-clipping RMS power into a 6 ohm load is limited to about 12 watts per channel. Drive the amp into heavy clipping (essentially base square waves) and the power would approach 24 watts per channel.

I have installed the Jenhert door speakers in place of the active bass speakers which have three 5" woofers on each side and present a 3 ohm impedance to the trunk amp. The amp sinks the extra current just fine and sounds great.
 

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1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1993 300CE Cabrio, needs some TLC
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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #8
The active bass amplifier is a 12 volt buss, bridge style amplifier which means that the non-clipping RMS power into a 6 ohm load is limited to about 12 watts per channel. Drive the amp into heavy clipping (essentially base square waves) and the power would approach 24 watts per channel.

I have installed the Jenhert door speakers in place of the active bass speakers which have three 5" woofers on each side and present a 3 ohm impedance to the trunk amp. The amp sinks the extra current just fine and sounds great.
Jehnert is an amazing approach but is definitely out of my budget, I am better off just throwing some powerful door woofers in there. 12 watts per channel, yeah probably shouldn't even bother hooking those factory ones back up. So if I was to put better door speakers in I probably would need another amp:( My head unit can supply 22w rms per channel for 4 channels is there a way that I could wire it straight to the door speakers to put 44w rms per speaker
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So my head unit that puts up 22w per channel is enough to power my factory door subs alone?
 

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2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1995 E320 Cabriolet, 1980 TR8
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I would find a 4 ohm infinite baffle (so called free air) subwoofer and then use the factory amp which is properly EQ'ed for the car. The infinite baffle design subwoofers allow you to use the door cavity as your enclosure (this is the type of woofer that is in the Jenhert panels). Infinite baffler woofers are not as efficient as those designed for a box, but given the limited space in the door, it's a good trade off.

In my installation, since the factory amp is at the end of a long run from the battery, I installed a 100,000 mfd, 16 volt capacitor (the old style with the screw terminals) right at the amp's +12 power feed to prevent voltage droop during bass peaks. It makes an audible difference in the performance (punchiness) of the subwoofer system.
 

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2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1995 E320 Cabriolet, 1980 TR8
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The Jenhert speaker panels in my Cabrio (sorry about the poor lighting). Note that there are four drivers in the panel. One of them is connected as a mid bass driver and driven by the factory head unit (from a W210 with the D2B fiber optic buss system). The other three are wired series/parallel as true subs driven by the trunk mounted factory amp.

IMG_6199.JPG
 

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2014 G550, 2000 SL500, 1995 E320 Cabriolet, 1980 TR8
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^ Yes, x10.
 

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1995 E320 Sedan
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Discussion Starter #17
I would find a 4 ohm infinite baffle (so called free air) subwoofer and then use the factory amp which is properly EQ'ed for the car. The infinite baffle design subwoofers allow you to use the door cavity as your enclosure (this is the type of woofer that is in the Jenhert panels). Infinite baffler woofers are not as efficient as those designed for a box, but given the limited space in the door, it's a good trade off.

In my installation, since the factory amp is at the end of a long run from the battery, I installed a 100,000 mfd, 16 volt capacitor (the old style with the screw terminals) right at the amp's +12 power feed to prevent voltage droop during bass peaks. It makes an audible difference in the performance (punchiness) of the subwoofer system.
Wait, so your saying put free air woofers in those little black box enclosures the factory ones used in the door, aren’t those boxes not meant for free air. Or are you saying remove those completely and put the infinite baffler sub straight in the door.

I have a 143 amp alternator with thicker wires going to the terminal brick.
Almost all my lights are led other than than some of the ac control lights.
I also have another two amps with a combined 600w rms without any spike or capacitors.
Hopefully I’ll be fine and not need a capacitor

I wonder if that old amp is just extremely inefficient

So if it can push out 12w rms at 6 ohms so it will probably push somewhere around 18w rms at 4 ohms. Also I’m pretty sure amps are not meant to supply to speakers with lower impedance(it destroys the amp)
Also if I was to wire on 18w free air speakers that’s barely a boost over stock.

Lastly how can I retain that factory amp when the wiring harness draw power from the front dash speakers that are wired to a powerful aftermarket amp and all my amp level outputs are taken up from my stereo. Other than the powered 22w rms per channel wires coming straight out of it.




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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
The Jenhert speaker panels in my Cabrio (sorry about the poor lighting). Note that there are four drivers in the panel. One of them is connected as a mid bass driver and driven by the factory head unit (from a W210 with the D2B fiber optic buss system). The other three are wired series/parallel as true subs driven by the trunk mounted factory amp.

View attachment 2628386
I’m so lost your saying that amp in the trunk ,the mini active bass one, has the power to drive three Jenhert speakers?!


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Discussion Starter #19
Whatever you do, dampen the heck out of the door. I just did Soundskins on the inside and outside of mine yesterday and it made a world of difference for mid bass and punchiness. Even with the stock setup.


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Thank you, I was thinking about this now I’m most likely to do it. My car already slams, I put some cheap but working insulation in the trunk(only the part that opens)where the sub is and it made all the difference.


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Discussion Starter #20
The Jenhert speaker panels in my Cabrio (sorry about the poor lighting). Note that there are four drivers in the panel. One of them is connected as a mid bass driver and driven by the factory head unit (from a W210 with the D2B fiber optic buss system). The other three are wired series/parallel as true subs driven by the trunk mounted factory amp.

View attachment 2628386
Do you have the premium sound system amp is that what your referring too? I checked those Jenhert speakers and they recommend 200w-300w rms PER DOOR!
I don’t know how your powering them with an amplifier that can only push out 12w rms per speaker.
I have the factory active bass amp in the trunk. The rest of my speaker system is aftermarket.


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