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W124, 1991ish 250D
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,

- Not been on here for a while, hence new identity.

- This should really go in the "DIY" section, but i've been unable to find it so hence new post.

Ok, has anybody here replaced sills, inner rear wheel-arch and rear wing on a W124 ?

Reason i ask is - that's what i'm doing at the moment to my 1991 W124 saloon.

i've removed the sill, inner rear wing and rear wing and have the replacement pressings ready to weld on.
Does anybody know what on earth this bit is ? It looks like a "C" section bracing bracket, holding the rear end of the sill away from the body.
Is this true ?

Also, the rear lacking points (tube for roadside jack and rubber/plastic pad for jacking from beneath) don't seem to be attached to anything substantial - the front ones are welded inboard to the main front-rear structural box member but the rear ones just seem to be attached to the sill.

Any clues ?

All the very best,

Neil xx.
 

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1995 e320ce. 1993 230 TE. 1987 Kit car with 260e running gear.
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670 Posts
Jacking points/tubes are welded to the inner chassis and to the outer sill.
The outer sill is normally (UK) rotted away around the jacking tube because changing punctured wheels over the years causes the tube to flex and crack the paint at the outer sill.
Our American cousins call the sills rockers and it has been much documented on here that they are non load bearing and many are repaired with fibreglass around the sills/rockers. So if you do a search for rockers you may see some useful posts/threads.
Make sure you squirt in loads of (warm can) Waxoyl.
 

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W124, 1991ish 250D
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Boyd Waugh for your prompt reply,

Having removed the whole sill (sorry, Rocker to our American cousins), the rear jacking point is indeed only welded into the sill pressing. Spot welds at top and bottom through the sill pressing, whilst the front ones are welded (as stated above) to the box-section structural member. It's a shame the rear jacking points aren't welded to anything more substantial...

This means i can weld the rear jacking structure to the new sill (rocker) before attaching the new sill (rocker) to the car.

Taking all these bits off has been a revelation. It also has allowed access to otherwise inaccessable areas to carry out repairs which would otherwise be impossible.

Still, that bit circled in the photograph - is it just a "C" shaped plate attached to act as a spacer for the sill (rocker) ? Should it attach to the front edge of the inner rear wing ?

Unfortunatley, searching "Rocker" and "Sill" here, whilst showing a great number of fascinating posts on work other members here have carried out on other cars, doesn't provide any pictures or posts on anyone doing this kind of work on a W124. Has nobody here done this before ? Yikes !

On my previous W124 (same model, a year younger), the roadside jacking points (tubes) were not welded to the sill's (rocker's), allowing water ingress but not important because there is a drain hole to both front and rear of the sill (rocker).

All the best,

Neil xx.
 

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1995 e320ce. 1993 230 TE. 1987 Kit car with 260e running gear.
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670 Posts
Hi Neil, I never went as deep as you have into the removal of metal.
I did however spend a long time welding up a 320ce. The link is to the the thread, post 26 on shows sills but blurred by Photosuckit!
 

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W124, 1991ish 250D
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hello again Boyd Waugh,

Thank you again for your prompt reply to my post.

Ok, being an idiot i can't find your link.

It's too rainy here in Manc to do any welding at the moment, risks of getting large zaps.

Obviously inner wheel-arch goes on first, then sill (rocker), it's odd working on these cars from top-to-bottom when they were built from bottom-to-top.

Not sure weither to do MIG or electric spot welds to join the rear wing to the inner rear wheel arch...

Thank you for your response,

Neil xx.
 

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1995 e320ce. 1993 230 TE. 1987 Kit car with 260e running gear.
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670 Posts
Sorry, forgot!

 

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1989 W124 260E
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1,373 Posts
Old Red Beard do keep a water hose close to you as you weld the sills .All body parts are injected with cavity wax and heat will set it alight . Pull the grommets in the wheel arch With the front wheel arch liner down on front arch ,,you can use that gap in there to put the hose in if anything goes wrong .Wish you good luck
 

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W124, 1991ish 250D
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you Plinker17722 for that excellent advice. You are absolutely right. One should also have an observer on Fire Watch too.

Removing the front inner-wheelarch plastic cover does, as you say, allow access to the plastic plug at the top of the front sill forward bulkhead (between the open bit where the front wings attach and the bottom of the passenger compartment). Or you could just pull out the angled rubber drain plug under the "A" pillar, just forward of where the door wiring enters the car body, and poke the hosepipe in there.

This old bus doesn't have the Waxoyl injection (as can be seen from the attached dodgy composite photograph). The grey is zinc primer, the yellow is to show gaps in welding, the beige/dull yellow is original primer.

Still don't know what shape that funny bracket just infront of the rear wheelarch should be... When this confounded Manchester Sunshine stops i'll fit the rear inner wheelarch and fabricate something.

Cheers folks,

Neil xx.
 

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