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- There is no aftermarket option that I know, If you have access to good used one, give it a try.
- Bad magnet is unlikely since VVT is engaging, it wont hurt to try though since its just removing 3 bolts. (You need to use flange sealant on re-install to prevent future oil leak).
 

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Discussion Starter #22
- There is no aftermarket option that I know, If you have access to good used one, give it a try.
- Bad magnet is unlikely since VVT is engaging, it wont hurt to try though since its just removing 3 bolts. (You need to use flange sealant on re-install to prevent future oil leak).
Yeah,will try a used one as well.
Not using the car for now, will revert once i replace the magnet.
@PhantomLord-Do you think that running the car without VVT will create any further problems?


Thanks for all your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It should not cause any problem, ECU should detect disconnected Camsaft actuator and adjust accordingly. You will loose out on performance and efficiency that it was designed for.
Not sure about efficiency, but there is no drop in power with magnet/VVT disconnected, so can i say, that it has no effect on power, or the VVT is not getting actuated even after being connected to the system?
 

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According to MB document VVT is used to boost mid range torque and power under load. It is activated based on RPM

RPM < 1200 or > 4300 --- OFF
RPM > 1200 and < 4300 --- ON

You may not be able verify it with generic acceleration runs, additionally you should be sure that rest of engine parameters are to spec.
 

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1200 RPM - 4300 RPM --> advanced position of the (overlapping) inlet valves... creating more power output (more gas efficiency)...
<1200 RPM + >4300 RPM --> retarded position of the inlet valves ---default output..

You might try to test Y49 first.
With engine off, bring the positive 12V to the top pin and negative to the other pin, you should hear the click-on sound (gears come together).
With engine on, do the same thing, your might come upon engine stall...or uneven idling....
Both are signs of a good Y49.
Then your problem will be surely the worn pulley set / or a broken spring.

Without the function of the variable timing valve adjustment, cars still can run great but your HFM /ME ECU system will detect a open circuit of the Y49 and store a fault code (if you don't mind).
 

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Discussion Starter #27
1200 RPM - 4300 RPM --> advanced position of the (overlapping) inlet valves... creating more power output (more gas efficiency)...
<1200 RPM + >4300 RPM --> retarded position of the inlet valves ---default output..

You might try to test Y49 first.
With engine off, bring the positive 12V to the top pin and negative to the other pin, you should hear the click-on sound (gears come together).
With engine on, do the same thing, your might come upon engine stall...or uneven idling....
Both are signs of a good Y49.
Then your problem will be surely the worn pulley set / or a broken spring.

Without the function of the variable timing valve adjustment, cars still can run great but your HFM /ME ECU system will detect a open circuit of the Y49 and store a fault code (if you don't mind).
Thanks that was helpful.
Positive 12V to the top pin, you mean using wires from the battery?
btw i see that you too have a E220 with a lot many more kms than me.
Did you ever face this by any chance?
And no engine check light is there so the fault will be stored only in the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It should not cause any problem, ECU should detect disconnected Camsaft actuator and adjust accordingly. You will loose out on performance and efficiency that it was designed for.
Not sure if i remember exactly, but i feel that the noise started after i got the car serviced, the car has run on Mobil1 5W50 all its life, however i was unable to find it,so i used Mobil 1 0W40, can the noise be due to change in grade of oil???
 

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Thanks that was helpful.
Positive 12V to the top pin, you mean using wires from the battery?
btw i see that you too have a E220 with a lot many more kms than me.
Did you ever face this by any chance?
And no engine check light is there so the fault will be stored only in the ECU.

No, I haven't come upon this issue yet...hope not.....
but I fixed that issue on another "identical engine".
This fault code will only store in your HFM ECU, and if my memory is correct, there should be no any CHECK ENGINE light on the dashboard, only US spec. w124 come with that.:grin
 

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Not sure if i remember exactly, but i feel that the noise started after i got the car serviced, the car has run on Mobil1 5W50 all its life, however i was unable to find it,so i used Mobil 1 0W40, can the noise be due to change in grade of oil???
The main force pushing the gear set is the oil pressure in the engine gallery.
Multigrade engine oil might have effects on that....but definitely not the main cause. You may try to switch the oil specs back to 5W-50.

BTW, test Y49, you could simply bring battery +12V to the top pin and -12V to the other pin, or any other power source.:wink
 

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Not sure if i remember exactly, but i feel that the noise started after i got the car serviced, the car has run on Mobil1 5W50 all its life, however i was unable to find it,so i used Mobil 1 0W40, can the noise be due to change in grade of oil???



Good point, engine oil plays important role in the actual actuation. When power is applied to electro-magnet(68), it energies and attracts the plunger(59) (spring(38) loaded) in camshaft actuator. When plunger moves forwards it lets oil into front side actuator chamber which pushes actuator piston back, this advances the camshaft. When electro-magnet is de-energized plunger moves back(spring load) this lets oil into rear side of actuator which moves actuator piston to the front, this retards the camshaft.

Oil pressure in chamber is additionally responsible to hold the piston in either position. So thinner oil could possible worsen the noise if it already existed.

You could try cheaper(mineral) thicker oil and see if noise goes away, just drain current oil cleanly for re-use and try thicker oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Good point, engine oil plays important role in the actual actuation. When power is applied to electro-magnet(68), it energies and attracts the plunger(59) (spring(38) loaded) in camshaft actuator. When plunger moves forwards it lets oil into front side actuator chamber which pushes actuator piston back, this advances the camshaft. When electro-magnet is de-energized plunger moves back(spring load) this lets oil into rear side of actuator which moves actuator piston to the front, this retards the camshaft.

Oil pressure in chamber is additionally responsible to hold the piston in either position. So thinner oil could possible worsen the noise if it already existed.

You could try cheaper(mineral) thicker oil and see if noise goes away, just drain current oil cleanly for re-use and try thicker oil.
What grade of oil, would you recommend, should i try-20W50(mineral)??
The current Mobil1 0W40 is like 700kms old, and i will not be able to source an oil filter immediately, does it make sense to change oil using the same oil filter?
 

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I would recommend put something that you can run for sometime and switch to similar rating synthetic later, either same rating you were running earlier or at most 10W40. Considering it has not run much, you can re-use oil filter just drain old oil and install.

Also note that spring(47) is supposedly used to suppress noise and in some instances broken spring causes the noise, in that case oil might not work, this would next thing to try after oil.

Here is actual unit


See Camshaft adjuster problem - MBWorld.org Forums
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I would recommend put something that you can run for sometime and switch to similar rating synthetic later, either same rating you were running earlier or at most 10W40. Considering it has not run much, you can re-use oil filter just drain old oil and install.

Also note that spring(47) is supposedly used to suppress noise and in some instances broken spring causes the noise, in that case oil might not work, this would next thing to try after oil.

Here is actual unit


See Camshaft adjuster problem - MBWorld.org Forums
Thank you for this.
Will try and change Solenoid and then engine oil and see if this works.
If not, will unplug the connector and try to forget about it.
 

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@jimmyhsiung, what oil do you use currently and what did you use in past years ?
1. Mobile 0W-40 --> not recommended!! Degrading very quickly after 3000KM!!!
2. Chevron 5W-40 Syn --> great buy.
3. Castrol Edge 5W-50 for Classic Car --> Currently used! High C/P value.

Options 1 and 2 have MB-approved specs.
Option 3 has A3/B3 approved.

Option 3 is my current use and I opt for 3, because of my high mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Its been 1000kms since i disconnected the magnet.
The noise has vanished, and there is absolutely no drop in performance and FE, its the same like it was with magnet connected.
 
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