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1993 300CE Cabriolet (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (son's)
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since parking brakes should only be applied when you're already stopped (except perhaps in an emergency), not sure that crack really matters, but sure if you're in there, and you've got the replacement parts, do it.
 

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1989 W124 260E
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1,349 Posts
Shoes have been hot at some time .But like Left Coast Geek said up above wont make a problem . But if your not happy best to replace them if you can.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #85
Update:
Car has been running fine. Starts in one crank. Very happy for everyone's help.

Now, need to replace:
1. Ball joint (L)
2. Tie rods (LR)
2. Brake hoses (F&R)
3. Brake caliper repair kit (F&R)

Ball joint rubber cover is split. I had replaced R BJ about 2 years ago. Mistake... Should have replaced both sides.

All brake hoses are cracked.

Question: Which part do I replace first? I have all the parts now.
 

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1993 300CE Cabriolet (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (son's)
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7,025 Posts
Are any of the calibers or hoses leaking? If so do not drive it til they are fixed.

I'd do all the front end stuff at once, you're in there so do it.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
Things I did today and yesterday:

22 January 2020:
Removed and changed the L lower arm ball joint. I changed the R side in 2018 when I got the car. It was easier to get those tyre lugs off and bolts when you have a cordless impact wrench and a Chinese-made ball joint extractor.

Next, removed and changed both tie rods. Initially, I thought only one needed change but turned out to be both. I didn't measure them but I placed one end of the old rod against the wall and placed a piece of wood on the other end. Then, adjusted the length of the new one so that it fitted the length between the wall and the wood. Crude, I know...

Today, 23 January 2020,
Fitted new brake hoses. It was relatively easy to remove 3 of the brake hoses, about 15 minutes each to remove and reinstall new ones. The FL refused to budge at all that I had to use a torch to unstuck it. And removed the shock absorber beforehand.

I can't recommend enough that you get a flare spanner/wrench to do this job.

Tomorrow, I'm going to bleed the brake system and check for leaks.

IMG_20200123_093500.jpg

IMG_20200123_093440.jpg
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #89
Your doing a good job . azamkb I will do my flixi hoses in the next month or two . Mine are not split but once done will last the cars life .
Ahh, a 260E RH drive owner. Do you plan to install steel flexible brake hoses?

I put extra effort to clean the connectors to avoid future problems if I need to replace them again... I'll probably be quite old by then..

The brake bleeding was considered a success. I did a one-man bleeding procedure. YouTube helped.. Now driving the car around without the tyres being aligned. Shops are closed for the Chinese New Year starting today... CNY is tomorrow, Saturday.
 

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Hi everybody, I own 1992 w124 E200, and I have a serious question and I hope you guys can help. I parked my car for about 1,5 hour and then I could not start, engine turned over but could not fire, plus turn signals would periodically start and stop, then I rolled over put in 2nd gear and it started. I had similar problems but engine would turn off while I would ride a car and then I did little research and changed over voltage relay( bought used part hopefully good condition) and I was hoping I solved problem. plus the battery is not in best condition but as mechanics are saying its enough for starting a car. Any idea what's the next step? snaptube telegram web
 

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1989 300CE & 1971 280SE; 73.5 911T
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160 Posts
Unscrew your voltage regulator, see if the brushes are at least 8-10mm (1/3 inch) sticking out.
When they get too short the electrics will flicker, then the engine will die.
2618283
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #92

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Premium Member
1993 300CE Cabriolet (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (son's)
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7,025 Posts
It's around a thousand files or at least a few hundred. Each section is a separate PDF file in a tree full of directories with an HTML index that lets you find stuff. You can buy the files on a CD from various eBay vendors for quite cheap, but it only covers US models and the wiring diagrams are US versions. The indexes can be found at Mercedes list.com which is a email lists website someone there by the name of Steve nerving made those indexes. The original CDs from Mercedes had a horrible flash-based user interface that was impossible to find stuff and painfully slow.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #95
ok, if you know how to use 'wget' or 'curl' to bulk fetch stuff from a website, you could pull a copy down from here... make sure you maintain the directory structure.

Main.htm is the front page
Excellent, LCG, sir. I'll Google how to use wget or curl. I'm slowly working on compiling these as physical papers when I have to work on the car and file them, accordingly. Thanks again, LeftCoastGeek.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
Below is the condition of my rear axle drive shafts(?) which I have painstakingly removed today. I couldn't get the bolts to unscrew using normal ratchet. I had to use my torque wrench to get those off (51 pound foot) because that was the only long tool I had (2 feet long).

The Chinese-made XZN 10 mm triple square didn't break nor scraped the bolts. I tapped it in firmly with a hammer for good measure. It was time consuming, especially when you're on your back most of the time and trying to push the wrench upwards to get those bolts loose. I resorted to using the cordless torque wrench on the left side to remove the bolts once they were loose.

Questions:
1. I know that I need to disassemble the shafts but I have not seen any videos on W124 which show how to pack grease into those inner and outer joints. Can someone point me to something that will help me.

2. The MB manual above mentioned putting substance like Loctite 547 on the annular joint but i haven't read anywhere else about it. Is it a must? Can I substitute it with threadlocker?

Highly appreciate it if someone can help me before I actually dismantle the shafts tomorrow.

IMG_20200127_121709.jpg

IMG_20200127_121437.jpg
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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I hope you are using a good quality boot kit. Most aftermarket boots are Chinese rubber dogsh!t, and fail very quickly.

MB used to sell boot kits separately. Don't know if they still do or not.

At any, since you have already removed them swap the axles left and right so that they wear evenly.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
I hope you are using a good quality boot kit. Most aftermarket boots are Chinese rubber dogsh!t, and fail very quickly.

MB used to sell boot kits separately. Don't know if they still do or not.

At any, since you have already removed them swap the axles left and right so that they wear evenly.
Thanks sbaert.

I was not planning to swap the shafts though I remembered someone here told me to do so. When I measured them, they were of similar lengths. So, I will swap.

And how do I check whether the joints are good or not?
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,294 Posts
Don't use any kind of petroleum based cleaner when cleaning up the CV joints. Any residue left over will cause fumes which will attack the new boot kits.

I don't know of any layperson's guide to testing the CV joints. You certainly know when they are bad by rapid acceleration from a stop and feeling vibrations....assuming your sub-frame bushings, driveshaft flex joints and diff mounts are good.

Boot kits are very variable in quality. Even CVJ axle re-builders have used inferior boot kits in the past.

Kevin
 
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