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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #61
I think Boyd nailed it. You should change the dust shield (insulator), cap, and rotor. They should be able to sustain moisture without the problems you experienced.
I'll check it again tomorrow and if there's moisture in it, I'll change it. It's been raining intermittently these days because of the monsoon.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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That suppressor disc and O ring appear to be in very poor condition.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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Change the disc, O ring, and make sure you get the updated style metal rotor arm driver and seal.

And only use genuine MB parts, especially cap and rotor. Only the genuine MB last the long haul. The aftermarket Bosch version is very short lived, despite the OE MB cap & rotor being made by Bosch.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #66
Change the disc, O ring, and make sure you get the updated style metal rotor arm driver and seal.

And only use genuine MB parts, especially cap and rotor. Only the genuine MB last the long haul. The aftermarket Bosch version is very short lived, despite the OE MB cap & rotor being made by Bosch.
Do you have any pics of this updated style motor rotor arm driver?
So, change all three? Including the cap?
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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Here is a pic of the updated driver, MB p/n#103581040. Also make sure you order the accompanying updated rotor arm bolt, MB p/n#1049900522.

Be sure you order using your vin#.
2610781
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,310 Posts
I'm pretty sure that is the old adapter part number. Although we do not know the build date of the OP' car but as far as I know the old (pre mid 89) and post (post mid 89) adapter's are not interchangeable. So have to go with whatever the OP's car currently has in the car.

So as Sbaert mentioned best to check the engine number and the part numbers against the engine number.
Hopefully not repeating the obvious here.....

- Cheers!
 

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W124
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I'll check it again tomorrow and if there's moisture in it, I'll change it. It's been raining intermittently these days because of the monsoon.
It seems as if you are going to change out the cap rotor and dust shield/insulator. I just want to reiterate that it WILL be moist inside your distributor. New parts perform well in a moist environment, worn ones do not, that is why you should be changing them - not because you think they will keep moisture out of the distributor.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #70
Installed new rotor arm, distributor cap and dust cover. About US$134 for those. The car started and ran in just one crank. Ran the car at idle w/o AC for 40 minutes. No shakes or stalling and seemed very quiet. Then, turned AC on for about 20 minutes with similar outcome.

Today, drove for about an hour, went max speed of 80km/h and no shakes or stalling on the move or at lights. Every time I reached a traffic light, the fear of the shaking and stalling crept in. Lol.

I haven't completed the smoke test because the smoke jar leaked smoke when I turned on the welding iron. It must have melted the epoxy.. Thinking of using a hot gun as I've seen it on YouTube. I'll give an update after one or two weeks. If the stalling does not return, I'm certain that the problem/s is/are resolved...
 

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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #71
Finally, smoke test came up with a few leaks from the air filter box. So, does one need to seal the rubber hole on top of the air filter box (hole for lambda adjustment)? Mine has a rubber grommet.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #72
A different question altogether : I would like to change dashboard lights from normal bulbs to LEDs. I have tested T5 size LEDs and they don't fit. T4.2 fits?
 

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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #73
Update:
It's been more than 2 weeks and happy to say that the car runs great though the fear is still there. I believe the shaking and stalling has been resolved by one or a few of the things I replaced or carried out as suggested by a couple of people here. Thanks heaps.

I'm now planning to replace the driveshaft boots and re-grease them. It's been raining heavily... It's the monsoon season this part of the world. Few parts of the country is under water now..
 

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I don't think the smoke leak from the mixture adjustment tower is a major leak but if you can seal it you are better off. Air entering at that point is downstream of the airflow meter plate and therefore is a leak as opposed to being intake air.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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If you're gonna reboot the halfshafts, also flip them so the CV joints wear evenly.
 

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1993 300CE Cabriolet (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (son's)
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What do you mean by "flip them"?
I assumed he meant, swap the left and right side, so the load on the CV joint goes on the opposite sides. afaik, they are the same part.

ok, XEntry Parts Information (the new corporate parts catalog) confirms, same PN for both sides on a 3.2, I'm guessing that's true across the board. hah, its got a 129 part number, A1293503810. k, my 1990 300e2.6 takes A2103508410 that replaces A1293504010. so yeah, the half shafts are interchangable and I totally agree with sbaert, if you have to pull them, swap them. its sorta like rotating your tires, evens the wear.
 

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1992 W124 260E
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Discussion Starter #80
Thanks sbaert for the suggestion and LeftCoastGeek for the explanation. That's quite a major work...
I'm almost done with replacing the rear brake pads and parking brake shoes. The pads are almost half way and the shoes are cracked... Must have been very old...
 
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