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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings!

I own a '84 300D so I'm somewhat familiar with these oldtimers. I'm about to pick up a '76 240d 4 speed manual here in the UK. Claimed 86K miles which can be verified going back 15 years only. Wanted to know if I need to specifically look for trouble areas during my pre-purchase inspection?

The car looks 98+% rust free (aside from some paint bubbling on the trunk and hood) and the interior looks like it would support that mileage (ignore the floor mat). The under section has been waxoyl'd.

A couple issues spotted:

1) Water leak gathering near the floor panel. Presumed to the be the sunroof
2) Gear knob wobbles quite a bit. Bushing perhaps?
3) Door, sunroof and window seals are hardened/ cracked. Are replacements available?

All experienced owner guidance/ illustrated buyers guides welcome!
 

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1975 300D, 1991 2.5D
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81 Posts
Rust , rust , rust .

These lovely cars have a thick layer of sound proofing on the floor and a thick layer of proofing under the floor .

This has usually cracked and let the weather in . The floor rusts away , nicely hidden , the rust creeps under the seat mounts , up the inside of the sills , eats away at the seat belt mounts , all hidden under the sealer and carpets .

Then there is the firewall rust ............

Heater fan is a weeks mission to pull and restore , if you can find the replacement fan ............. currently made of unobtainium .

It looks LOVELY , go for it . :)

edit; I had a 240D manual , it was great , the door + screen seals were easy sourced . Engine and subframe mounts also .

Sold it eventually after spending several years chasing the rust . have a w115 300D now .

It has heater fan issues too :(
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Heater fan is a weeks mission to pull and restore , if you can find the replacement fan ............. currently made of unobtainium .

I had a 240D manual , it was great , the door + screen seals were easy sourced . Engine and subframe mounts also .
From what I can tell, rust and the heater fan are the two main issues with W115's. Fortunately, neither seems to be a deal breaker on the W115 240D I am looking at. Heater fan has never been replaced (atleast in the last 2 decades) and works without issue. Are they not available anywhere? Even aftermarket?


There's very minor surface rust underneath the car that I plan to have addressed immediately but the car lived most of its life on the Isle of Wight - no snow and warmer climates have benefitted it would appear.

Going to go pick up the car today. Will look at the areas you mentioned.
 

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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6,258 Posts
Heater blower is a major pain the bottom. If it's not working and you need it, and I'm expecting you would based on your location, you're looking at a good 10-12 hour remove and replace. I'm not sure you an even get the part any more.

I've done the job, and it's very unpleasant.

Good luck!

Dan
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Purchased the car today and drove 175 miles from the Cotswolds back to London. The car drove in the most delightful way imaginable - very peppy and fun in the corners (I was expecting a slow barge!). The steering wheel and interior wasn't worn or damaged, the seats were firm and the car's responsiveness, all lead me to believe that the claimed 76K mileage was true.

I did notice several small issues which I will post later but found nearly no rust under the car. I did find noticeable engine blowby (demonstrated by the dancing oil cap) but the car started instantly when cold, emitted no black or white smoke and drove like a new car (no exaggeration here). The previous owner did share that the car wasn’t used for nine years, which may be the cause:


Going to run Auto-Rx engine oil treatment (worked wonders in my '84 300D) and do a diesel purge to try and cleanse the internals next.
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
List of issues found so far:

1) Brakes pulsing under pressure. (Could be uneven/ warped rotors or the front calipers. Rear calipers were just changed)

2) Car pulling slightly to the left.

3) Both Front Doors locks not locking & central locking not operational

4) Engine blow by (filmed above)

5) Injection pump oil change (Lubro Moly MOS2 10W40) + Diesel Purge + 3 fuel filters

6) Power steering filter(s) and fluid change - (Febi Bilstein -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002LANU9A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1)

7) Manual Transmission Oil change - (Lubro Moly Synthetic fluid- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004GV07R0/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1)

8) All window, sunroof and screen seals need replacing

9) Front windscreen chip needs a repair

10) Gear lever bushings as the lever is very wobbly and imprecise.

11) Check subframe, engine, transmission mounts and driveshaft couplers

12) Lubricate speedometer cable

13) Minor rust repair on left hand side corner underneath rear windscreen.

14) Roof lining needs a thorough cleaning with minor repair

15) Factory power moonroof jammed but doesn't look rusted. Owner swore it worked a few months ago but I can't hear the motor engage.

16) Series to pencil glowplug upgrade

17) Turn indicator bulb isn't working and the stalk doesn't stay in position (Replacement likely required)


That's all I can find so far!
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Picture of the car with the kind couple who helped me find it! Two mechanics have given it a clean bill of health with no rust anywhere.

Doesn't consume any oil with not a drop on the floor where its kept. A true joy to drive! :nerd
 

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1975 300D, 1991 2.5D
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81 Posts
Excellent , the car looks lovely .

Just the normal stuff to do on the car after a long sleep. :)

Trans normally has ATF , the 75-90 is not factory recommended .

Yes the blow by is large , but a diesel purge in the fuel and sump might clear a stuck ring or two . Or the bore is just glazed and you will have to live with it.

Drive it like you stole it :) :)
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #9

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2017 Police Interceptor Utility, 2017 Police Interceptor Sedan
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Purchased the car today and drove 175 miles from the Cotswolds back to London. The car drove in the most delightful way imaginable - very peppy and fun in the corners
It's all a matter of comparison. Next to a paraplegic turtle on Valium AND Versed, I'm sure that car is damn-near hypersonic!

Just kidding, nice car.
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks! A few gremlins I've not been able to diagnose yet:

1) The motor shuts down when I press the clutch prior to shifting to neutral from 2nd. I can't really explain it but it has happened half a dozen times sporadically. Hard to get it to repeat intentionally.

2) The fan belt is squealing even with the alternator set to its maximum tension. Belts are 3 years old with not many miles on them

3) Sunroof won't power on (can't hear the motor engage). Previous owner swore it worked very recently and has been very honest on everything else.
 

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1990 300SE
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176 Posts
2) The fan belt is squealing even with the alternator set to its maximum tension. Belts are 3 years old with not many miles on them
water pump or alternator bearings might be seizing up, with maximum tension they will break even faster.

take the belt off and check for how they spin.
 

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1983 380-SEL, '67 220D (sold), '65 200D (sold), '75 L-206D (sold)
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300 Posts
1) Bleed the air out of the fuel system. Check glow plugs look good. Valve clearances being off might contribute to shift into 2nd stall, but that is a wild guess.

2) Bearings mentioned before sounds rights. Run some hard soap bar on the belt and / or conditioner spray to temporarily help the screech.

3) Give it help to get started with your hand, preferably not driving at the same time. If that helps, then contacts at the end of the slider maybe need cleaning and greasing.

Hope that helps.
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Following parts being ordered from Mercedes Benz:

1) Bonnet Hood pad Part # 114 682 14 26 (W114 6 Cyl part # hopefully will fit my diesel)
2) Both replacement drive belts
3) Rocker cover gasket (for after the valve adjustment)
4) Engine stabilizer dampener (don't know the part number)
5) Turn indicator relay (The darn thing stopped flashing)
6) Alternator mounting bolts & nuts (Missing one at the very bottom of the alternator it would appear)
7) Front R&L brake rotors, front hose and brake pads and associated replacement hardware (pins etc.)
8) Replacement oil filter with replacement washer, rubber seal and pre-filter
9) Front R&L Anti- Roll bar drop links
10) All door, sunroof and windscreen seals ($ Ouch!)
11) Fuel filters
12) Gear lever bushing set
13) Monark hand primer pump (not from the dealer but looks way better than the Bosch)
14) Engine mounts
15) A boatload of the best fluids and additives out there! (see pic)

The driveshaft couplers, axle boots and subframe mounts look OK. Definitely not pristine but not collapsed or cracking in any way. Haven't looked at the strut top rubber but I'm guessing its the same. Would you recommend I preemptively replace any of those or anything else I've missed?
 

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1996 W124 E220, 1984 300D
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184 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Despite the above, took the car out for a 100 mile drive. Regularly hit 80mph with a one time 90mph max speed hit. Drove like a charm but the car shut itself off twice when to shifting out of gear to neutral to come to a stop.
 

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2017 Police Interceptor Utility, 2017 Police Interceptor Sedan
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Despite the above, took the car out for a 100 mile drive. Regularly hit 80mph with a one time 90mph max speed hit. Drove like a charm but the car shut itself off twice when to shifting out of gear to neutral to come to a stop.
90mph in a 240D? A slightly optimistic speedometer, methinks...

On a second thought, was it off a cliff?
 
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