Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 20 of 57 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Got the instructions this week, and already had the module, so was raring to go today!

Popped to Maplins (similar to Radio Shack for the Yanks) to get some extra cable and connectors.

All going well - will post pics of each awkward stage later - and have it all hooked up with confirmed 12v from power cable to ground screw, BUT NO LED's!!

Have decided to take a break & see if it comes alive (IIRC this happened to a previous poster with their LHD module).

Any tips in the meantime would be appreciated, and I promise to get the pics uploaded later (working module or not).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
No red LED means no power to the module. It's usually the ground connection that is the culprit.

Cilonen, do not attach the SCSI connector to the module itself until the final assembly. This will allow you to confirm power supply after you have all the connections.

Verify that the red wire you are connecting to (the one you plan to crimp on) at the right dashboard panel has 12v (with the key off the ignition) using the pin method. Next verify that after crimping, there is 12V power on the red power line of the SCSI connector, again using the pin method. Third, use a fine grit sandpaper (cut to 2mm wide strips) and run this against the screw that you are going to use as the ground . Do this in the same manner as one would be drying onself with a towel. Verify that the ground is good using a voltmeter. Attach the ground wire from the SCSI connector.

After the above, attach the SCSI connector to the module. This should snap nicely, and, if all the connections are correct, you should see the red LED light up. A few moments later, the green LED will start flashing and then become constant. DO NOT OPERATE THE MODULE IMMEDIATELY OR YOU WILL GET AN ERROR MESSAGE. Take your time and wait about five minutes. Use a small flat head screwdriver to secure the 2 screws of the SCSI connector to the module. One of the screws might be more difficult to do with the hand, hence, I recommend the screwdriver.

Good luck and hope everything goes well. Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's ALIVE!!!!!!

OK, left it for an hour - still no joy, but now getting the "Vario-roof - visit workshop" message. Removed the ground screw and re-sanded the screw thread.
Bingo! We have power (red) LED, but still no green.
Decided to leave it 10 mins - green LED now lit, and we have full function!!!!

Below are the tips & pics for others - I strongly recommend having some plasters handy as your knuckles get a hell of a scraping on the underside of the carpet.

I got a pack of bullet connectors & sockets, 10m of 16 gauge cable, and the Torx bits from Maplin for the princely sum of £6.24 (pics 1 & 2).

I fitted the connectors first, simply because it was easier to do at my desk than sat in my driveway (pic 3).

The pics of the wiring bundle on Marcus' instructions are not very clear - the bundle in my 350 was a good 5 inches inside the dash. I used a bent wire coathanger to hook it out, but it really only has enough give to get just out of the dash opening (pic 4).

**WARNING** There is only 1 red cable in this bundle, but there is also a red cable with a green stripe. CHECK WHICH ONE YOU GRAB! In mine, the correct cable was buried at the bottom of the bundle (pic 5).
Remove 1 loop of the cable binding (the black sticky fabric) to allow easier access - careful use of a craft knife will do the trick.

I did all of the above BEFORE opening the floor, because this was the easy bit!

As Marcus notes in the instructions, access is a LOT harder in the RHD because of the gas pedal. You really can't lift the carpet that far (pics 6 & 7).

Otherwise, barring moderate difficulty getting into the CANBUS and removing the clips due to the limited access, the instructions are clear and easy to follow. Getting the ground onto the screw is a BITCH with the carpet being very close to it (pic 8).

Once everything is connected to the CANBUS, run the extra cable along the channel and feed it through the underside of the dash (pics as in Marcus' instructions). I chose not to cut the cable to length until I had fed it through and knew I had some leeway if things went wrong.

Because of the limited access to the power cable in the dash bundle, and the awkward position for getting the crimp in place, I punched through the sealed half of the crimp with a small screwdriver to allow the cable to pass through. I then bent the cable over 180 degrees and pulled it gently back into the crimp (pic 9). This allowed the crimp to securely hold the cable for me while I worked the power cable into its slot.

After the few bugs I noted in my first post were sorted, I had power and a working remote-controlled roof (pic 10).
If it weren't for the initial problems I think I would have had it done in about 60-90 mins, but I'm generally cautious when it comes to potentially breakable items - especially expensive ones!

I hope other RHD owners find this as useful as Shini & Etyu's posts were for the LHD owners.
Cheers all - I'm off to enjoy a well-earned beer or 3!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
BRAVO! Superb work and pictures, cilonen.

The insulated bullet connectors (snap connectors, as they are labeled in the US) was the route I went with. Check that they are for G18 to G22 wire. G16 will fit (which cilonen used) in this type of connector. The power cable from the SCSI is, I believe, G22 wire.

I would also suggest to get extra crimps from Maplins (equivalent to RadioShack here) that will crimp G16 to G14 wire. The one supplied may not crimp correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
I ordered my module yesterday so should have it later next week. The info above is excellent, thanks for taking the time to post Cilonen.

I was considering using soldered connectors rather than crimping. I'm pretty good with electrics and have done a lot of soldering. I also have heat shrink which can be applied over the joint for a good insulator. I may even just solder the two cables together and heat shrink over the joint.

Interested in the gauge of wire being used here. Etyu mentions getting crimps which crimp from G16 to G14 wire. I don't quite understand this bit. If the SCSI power cable is G22 then why do we need G16 to G14 crimps? I believe Marcus is sending my module with the extended cable for RHD vehicles which should solve the problem. However I would like to know what gauge the power cable in the vehicle is?

Is the routing of the extended power cable obvious? Will an MB Workshop detect this cable or is it well hidden? Is it possible to disguise the cable in another cable bundle so it's even harder to detect or is this the only cable that comes from this side panel?

I'll probably not get round to installing mine until the week after next due to work commitments. I will let everyone know how the install goes though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Andy747 said:
I would like to know what gauge the power cable in the vehicle is?

Is the routing of the extended power cable obvious? Will an MB Workshop detect this cable or is it well hidden? Is it possible to disguise the cable in another cable bundle so it's even harder to detect or is this the only cable that comes from this side panel?

I'll probably not get round to installing mine until the week after next due to work commitments. I will let everyone know how the install goes though.
Andy,

Couldn't tell you specifically what gauge the power cable is, but it looks to be the same size / slightly narrower diameter to the cable I bought (I don't know enough about electronics to tell what gauge it might be).

The extended cable is the only cable running this path I could see, but given the sheer number of cables in the CANBUS there must be some that run a similar path from further toward the engine. The limited access under the carpet stopped me from digging any deeper.
With everything replaced there is certainly no evidence of wires visible. I'm toying with the idea of removing the panel beneath the steering column (couple of screws on the underside) in order to get better access to the wiring bundle and try taping the extended cable into the rest of the bundle a little better. Could only manage about 1.5 inches through the side panel.

Just been out for a spin (decided the beer could wait!) to fully test it. All working, roof up & down at 28mph - and a totally gobsmacked look from an Audi A4 driver as I turned a junction with the roof dropping gracefully. Laughed all the way home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Thanks for that. I'll try and investigate attaching the extended cable further in when I do mine.

Looking forward to getting this toy up and running!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
etyu said:
...
Cilonen, do not attach the SCSI connector
etyu, I realise this posting is of no use whatsoever but ...please, please tell me there is no SCSI within this car - I'd hate to have to faff around with termination all over again!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
Tim_P said:
etyu, I realise this posting is of no use whatsoever but ...please, please tell me there is no SCSI within this car - I'd hate to have to faff around with termination all over again!!
What I call the "SCSI" connector is the item where the different wires go into. In picture 3 from Cilonen, it has the word "CONEC" molded on it. I call it the SCSI connector because it looks almost like the SCSI connectors that one would use connecting peripheral devices to the home computer.

I apologize if the term confuses anyone.

Andy747 said:
Interested in the gauge of wire being used here. Etyu mentions getting crimps which crimp from G16 to G14 wire. I don't quite understand this bit. If the SCSI power cable is G22 then why do we need G16 to G14 crimps? I believe Marcus is sending my module with the extended cable for RHD vehicles which should solve the problem. However I would like to know what gauge the power cable in the vehicle is?
The red power line from the module is a smaller gauge (I believe G22, because it matches the black wire that I used to extend the ground wire).

Cilonen attached an insulated male bullet connector to the red power line from the module. In his picture ( pic no. 1) the package labels the red primary wire as 16/0.2, which to me is G16. This is also the exact same size that I use to draw power from the fuse box in LHD vehicles. I presume Cilonen did crimp an insulated female bullet connector to the red primary wire and threaded this up the right side panel into the cavity of the dashboard and then crimped this to the red power line in the wiring harness/loom. Once this is connected, all he has to do was verify that there is 12v at the female connector, and then attach this to the male connector to complete the circuit.

It would look something like this (talking only about the + wire connection): module---red power line(G22 presumably)---male bullet connector---female bullet connector---red primary wire (G16), threaded from undercarpet area up the side panel---crimped to red power line inside the dashboard. This is where it would be helpful if you have different size crimps to pick from.

I apologize if I confuse anyone. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have _just_ finished installing my module - took me the best part of 2.75 hours but that's mostly my fault for being a prat...

I had the 'new' RHD version and the wire is long enough to reach without any modifications.

Other than having problems with the earth plug everything went fine. Only complaint is that I wasn't able to get the module to sit below the top of the 'box' so there's a slight lump. Is this just me or have other people had the same problem?

It's a good thing to have but not entirely convinced it was worth the time, effort and money...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Some thoughts (that would apply to LHD also), after doing another powered option install (radar detector).

First, as others had noted (etyu, in particular), all the Fuses in the fuse box inside the car are constant power (I check all 30 of them, as I needed switched power for my radar detector), so using the Add-a-fuse trick is much easier. Where is the fuse box on RHD cars on the RH side, or still on the LH side? If on the RH side, that would be the easiest place to pick up power.

On the gnd, I needed two more grounds and the wire eyelets on the wires would NOT fit over the same gnd screw as the Vario module. So I just drilled a small hole and used a "sheet metal" type self taping screw, into the metal piece that is behind the kick panel you had to remove anyway (the one where the hood release is). Much easier than trying to get to the screw that is on the floorboard under the carpet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
bloflin said:
On the gnd, I needed two more grounds and the wire eyelets on the wires would NOT fit over the same gnd screw as the Vario module. So I just drilled a small hole and used a "sheet metal" type self taping screw, into the metal piece that is behind the kick panel you had to remove anyway (the one where the hood release is). Much easier than trying to get to the screw that is on the floorboard under the carpet.
There is a factory ground above the tiny speaker and very near the trunk release lever on the left side kick panel. This will be evident after removing the side kick panel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
etyu said:
There is a factory ground above the tiny speaker and very near the trunk release lever on the left side kick panel. This will be evident after removing the side kick panel.
Yep, saw that one, which is where I got the idea to go ahead and use that metal panel as a gnd. Mine had quite a few wires already on it, and again the eyelets on the gnd wires I was attached where too small to fit on that one. I almost just stripped the wires and were going to wrap around that screw. But decided it would be just as easy to drill a pilot hole and screw them in with a new screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
Another way is to cut the eyelets out, crimp a correct-size U-shaped connector to the ground wire and attached this to the factory ground. :) I guess I'm just hesitant in drilling holes unto the body work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
etyu said:
Another way is to cut the eyelets out, crimp a correct-size U-shaped connector to the ground wire and attached this to the factory ground. :) I guess I'm just hesitant in drilling holes unto the body work.
That would have been A LOT more work, and I'm talking about a 3/32 hole into a metal panel that is about 100 sq inches, and then is covered by the plastic trim panel. What possible problem could that cause?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
bloflin said:
That would have been A LOT more work, and I'm talking about a 3/32 hole into a metal panel that is about 100 sq inches, and then is covered by the plastic trim panel. What possible problem could that cause?
You're right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
petehannam said:
Only complaint is that I wasn't able to get the module to sit below the top of the 'box' so there's a slight lump. Is this just me or have other people had the same problem?
I squeezed the module in just infront of the CANBUS connector by shoving the cables to the right. Fitted like a (tight) glove.
I then cut a small groove in the side of the box to allow the ground cable to slip through rather than go around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
bloflin said:
Where is the fuse box on RHD cars on the RH side, or still on the LH side? If on the RH side, that would be the easiest place to pick up power.
UNfortunately, the fuses in RHD cars are still located on the left side, so using them is pretty much impossible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Installed mine yesterday - my main problem was getting a good connection with the scotch lock - they're pretty unreliable as a long term connecter, and i'd recommend doing it properly with a bullet connecter. Worth undoing the three torx screws under the dash to get proper access to the power wires. The ground was also pretty hard to get a good connection on due to space on the RHD side - I ended up using a rachet screwdriver with a 10cm socket on the end.

Have to say connecting everything back up again afterwards was very easy - so good working on a quality car where everything fits.

I didn't think i'd find that this module was worth the money, but honestly, for smile factor it's wonderful! I do feel like a bit of a hairdresser getting into the car that everyone's staring at, but lets face it, still feels good!

Thanks for all your help Marcus - very impressed with how friendly you were and how quick you were to reply to any questions. I'd really recommend him.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
petehannam said:
I have _just_ finished installing my module - took me the best part of 2.75 hours but that's mostly my fault for being a prat...

I had the 'new' RHD version and the wire is long enough to reach without any modifications.

Other than having problems with the earth plug everything went fine. Only complaint is that I wasn't able to get the module to sit below the top of the 'box' so there's a slight lump. Is this just me or have other people had the same problem?

It's a good thing to have but not entirely convinced it was worth the time, effort and money...
I've recently fitted the Reinhold module to a RHD car. I think it is slightly smaller than XTC or Piecha. I fitted mine in the rear trunking box (further back from the canbus connectors) The covers went back perfectly with no lumps! I picked up the power as shown in cilonens excellent pictures. (I did need to extend the power wire on the module).Reinholds website www.cabrio-module.de
still shows the old price. I paid 306Euros inc. shipping & tax. (I paid by PayPal with no surcharge.)
 
1 - 20 of 57 Posts
About this Discussion
56 Replies
21 Participants
ghostdunks
Mercedes-Benz Forum
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!
Full Forum Listing
Top