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W123 & W116
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Hello fellow Benz owners. I have a 1973 450SE (yeah I know it's a W116, but the 116 forum's dead and many of you share the same engine as my car.) and I was wondering what valve covers are compatible with my M117? R107/W126 500's and 560's? :confused: I only ask because the valve cover on my car look really boring and plain, and the newer M117's have that 3-stripe design. ehh, I dunno, just wondering.
:surrender:
 

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It Is What It Is, Dude
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The C/R107 cam covers are interchangeable between the various M116 and M117 engines. I think that to be the same for the W116. You could cross reference the MB part numbers with the MB-USA Electronic Parts Catalog. Check the 'Info' section for a link. You need a credit card for residency, but the subscription is free.
 

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500SLC #2624. Black on Black.
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Yep, you can use any of the M116/M117 valve covers. In fact if you were to go to MB to buy a new valve cover for your car, you would be sold one of the newer ones.
 

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560SL,380SL
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The boneyard is chock-full of them on 380/500/560 W126 models. Beware of cracked ones. The price new will make you cry. I've polished several sets and the older versions look very nice when polished.
 

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560SL,380SL
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If you are really interested, I could be persuaded to sell a set of polished later bar-type valve covers...every time I go to a junkyard, I pick up a set to polish...
 

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500SLC #2624. Black on Black.
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here are some before and after pics of when I polished teh valve covers on my 1973 450SL before I sold it.
 

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560SL,380SL
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Sometimes, I tend to go a bit overboard...you can get aluminum to a mirror finish, but it's also soft, and any grit in a towel will scratch it. This isn't really a problem because you can re-buff it, but then you have to remove it from where it's mounted. I try to walk bwtween the lines of "very shiny" and "show-car perfect", because the quest for perfection on an car that is actually driven is utterly pointless. The manifolds (M116 and M117) shown were nightmares. The Eaton blower, which I rebuilt in the hopes of a future project, was also pretty tough.

This winter, I'm going to polish a spare set of heads for the 380 and have them rebuilt, because I'm starting to see some of the magic smoke come out of the exhaust occasionally upon start-up (guides, valves).
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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Sometimes, I tend to go a bit overboard...you can get aluminum to a mirror finish, but it's also soft, and any grit in a towel will scratch it. This isn't really a problem because you can re-buff it, but then you have to remove it from where it's mounted. I try to walk bwtween the lines of "very shiny" and "show-car perfect", because the quest for perfection on an car that is actually driven is utterly pointless. The manifolds (M116 and M117) shown were nightmares. The Eaton blower, which I rebuilt in the hopes of a future project, was also pretty tough.

This winter, I'm going to polish a spare set of heads for the 380 and have them rebuilt, because I'm starting to see some of the magic smoke come out of the exhaust occasionally upon start-up (guides, valves).
I like drinking beer and smoking the odd joint.

But you, Strife, have a serious problem.
 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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Strife

Expect a plane ticket in the mail to come up to CT and detail out both my cars engine bays.

Oh and inquiring minds want to know. Whats the blower going on.

Nice work as always.
 

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Well... I promise to write up a polishing tutorial soon. There are different techniques depending on how a part was cast. If it was sand-cast, it's a lot more work (intake manifolds, power steering pump for example) than die-cast (warm-up regulator, alternator housing, for example).

On the blower, these were pretty common on the GM 3800 engine, which was a well-regarded 6-cylinder, 3.8 liters. Hmmm...just the same displacement of the 3.8 M116...

I am gathering some parts for this project, which will probably be worked on in a "few years" after I replace the heads. I have the ignition stuff, the blower (which has been ported and polished internally based on some Eaton-centric website advice), and a spare M116 crank pulley and a pulley and EDIS (distributorless ignition trigger) wheel to weld on. The pulley on the blower is undersized to compensate for the lack of room for a big crank pulley. The amount of boost will be limited (5-7 pounds) because I want to be conservative, and I don't want to do an intercooler due to complexity and hood clearance. The goal is not to make a fire-breathing monster, just a car maybe a bit faster than a 560 but with better gas mileage. The fuel system will be Megasquirt EFI with the 90's GM/Hitachi throttle body (with all sensors) via a 90 degree adapter at the end of the supercharger. It is notable that the GM cars (admittedly with better transmissions, aerodynamics, and about 200 pounds less weight) could develop 210-240 HP with this setup and get pretty good gas mileage (around 17/28). I'd be happy with 16/23. The bypass setup in this supercharger effectively turns it off when not needed (vacuum/computer based) and it draws only about 1/3 HP in this mode.

Other people have installed EFI/Megasquirt on 116/117 engines, so I won't be doing anything new there.

Mechanical challenges will be designing an idler pulley system and mounting, a plate to mount on top of the manifold as low as possible, and a funnel from the bottom of the blower to the lower manifold. Ideally, you would have someone make a sheet-metal intake manifold, but that's serious amounts of money and definitely not worth it.
 

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Always Remembered RIP
1979 280sl 4 sp w/ac 1957 MGA 1998 volvo xc/70 2004 F150
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I had a Buick Grand National and that thing flew, course it was also stolen twice, never got it back.
 

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1972 220 D, 1974 450SL, 1995 E300D 2002 S430, 1976 300D, 1986 SDL, 1982 SD
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I just picked up a pair of valve covers to attempt a polishing. Last set of covers I worked on I just painted with engine paint. Read a posting on the forum of another member's covers and figure I do this myself.

Anybody have insight on how to proceed?
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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6,832 Posts
I just picked up a pair of valve covers to attempt a polishing. Last set of covers I worked on I just painted with engine paint. Read a posting on the forum of another member's covers and figure I do this myself.

Anybody have insight on how to proceed?
I salvaged a set of Valve Covers from my 380SL parts car.
Did not realize those Valve Covers would fit on a 560SL.
Like to learn how to polish a set too.
 

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1972 220 D, 1974 450SL, 1995 E300D 2002 S430, 1976 300D, 1986 SDL, 1982 SD
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If this thing works out, I may just spend my summer collecting Valve covers and making them shine.
 

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1983 380SL (us), Former owner: 1965 190Dc
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1,350 Posts
I got the valve cover on the OM621 in a W110 I had years back rather shinny. I found that the aluminum would oxidize rather rapidly. I went and got some clear gloss enamel and clear coated it. It looked nice.
 

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1972 220 D, 1974 450SL, 1995 E300D 2002 S430, 1976 300D, 1986 SDL, 1982 SD
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Walt, how did the paint hold up? I would expect a wax to be better able to withstand the heat in our SL engine bays, where the W110 may have run a whole bunch cooler in comparison. My diesels never really got as hot as I find the SL to get.
 
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