I have learned some interesting things about the SmartKey:
1. Never give the valet the entire key:
If the valet were to lose the key (or unscruplously duplicate the mechanical key - yes it can be duplicated), there is a hefty expense/hassle involved. A mechanical key loss & replacement involves re-keying the locks on the doors including the trunk door, reporting the loss to the car insurance company, discarding the other mechanical key because it no longer works after the re-key operation, having the original SmartKeys deactivated by the M-B shop, and purchasing three new keys (one entire SmartKey assembly that comprises a SmartKey and a mechanical key to replace the ones the valet lost, and the extra mechanical key to replace the one that had to discarded).
Which key is the valet key - the mechancal key or the SmartKey? The real answer is - neither! What to do? Slide the mechanical key out of the key housing complete with all your other keys still attached to the mechanical key and keep this part yourself (it's real easy to do this by sliding the spring-loaded thumb tab), and just give the valet the rest of the SmartKey housing.
2. Leaving the SmartKey in the ignition for an extended period (for those odd jobs at home) is not a good idea - as long as the key is in the ignition without the engine running, it continualy drains the car battery! Eventually, the key cannot even be turned in the ignition switch if the car battery falls below a certain charge level.
3. If the SmartKey's internal battery goes dead (can't open or close the locks), the key still works in the ignition. Since the key draws its power from the car battery, it retains all its key-dependancy functions.
4. If the car battery and the SmartKey internal batteries are dead, you could still open the door lock with the mechanical key and spend quality time inside your SLK while waiting for Roadside Assistance to arrive!
1. Never give the valet the entire key:
If the valet were to lose the key (or unscruplously duplicate the mechanical key - yes it can be duplicated), there is a hefty expense/hassle involved. A mechanical key loss & replacement involves re-keying the locks on the doors including the trunk door, reporting the loss to the car insurance company, discarding the other mechanical key because it no longer works after the re-key operation, having the original SmartKeys deactivated by the M-B shop, and purchasing three new keys (one entire SmartKey assembly that comprises a SmartKey and a mechanical key to replace the ones the valet lost, and the extra mechanical key to replace the one that had to discarded).
Which key is the valet key - the mechancal key or the SmartKey? The real answer is - neither! What to do? Slide the mechanical key out of the key housing complete with all your other keys still attached to the mechanical key and keep this part yourself (it's real easy to do this by sliding the spring-loaded thumb tab), and just give the valet the rest of the SmartKey housing.
2. Leaving the SmartKey in the ignition for an extended period (for those odd jobs at home) is not a good idea - as long as the key is in the ignition without the engine running, it continualy drains the car battery! Eventually, the key cannot even be turned in the ignition switch if the car battery falls below a certain charge level.
3. If the SmartKey's internal battery goes dead (can't open or close the locks), the key still works in the ignition. Since the key draws its power from the car battery, it retains all its key-dependancy functions.
4. If the car battery and the SmartKey internal batteries are dead, you could still open the door lock with the mechanical key and spend quality time inside your SLK while waiting for Roadside Assistance to arrive!
][8D]
