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1987 190D 2.5 Turbo, 1999 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor, 1986 190D 2.2 397,000miles
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130 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1987 190D turbo. Is it worth fixing the vacuum locks? The driver door is where i lock it from because its the only lock that works. I would like the trunk to lock but its not completely necc. Also how much would it cost to completely redo them? There are three wires unhooked in the trunk im guessing vacuum wires, im sure there is a reason they were unhooked but idk.
 

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1984 190D 2.2
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2,458 Posts
So when you lock the drivers door, all the other doors lock too?
Or does the vacuum not work?
 

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1987 190D 2.5 Turbo, 1999 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor, 1986 190D 2.2 397,000miles
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130 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No just that door, its basically manuel locks.
 

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1984 190D 2.2
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2,458 Posts
Mine is the same way, except I can lock/ unlock all the locks still. It stopped doing it automaticly after the battery died once.

Try connecting the wires in the trunk and see if that allows it to lock again.
 

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'01 SLK230,'93 190E 2.3, 1971 LS5 Corvette Convertible
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2,172 Posts
I have a 1987 190D turbo. Is it worth fixing the vacuum locks? The driver door is where i lock it from because its the only lock that works. I would like the trunk to lock but its not completely necc. Also how much would it cost to completely redo them? There are three wires unhooked in the trunk im guessing vacuum wires, im sure there is a reason they were unhooked but idk.
I would start at the vacuum pump under the rear seat. When I purchased a 1984 190D 2.2 in 1989, the vacuum locks didn't work. When I removed the rear seat I found that the foam that encases the pump had soaked up water due to the A/C drains becoming blocked, thus causing the motor to short out. The water made its way back to the vacuum pump via the channel in the floorboard.
Replaced the pump, cleaned out the 2 A/C drains, and the locks worked until I sold the car.
 

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92 190E 2.6
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499 Posts
sounds like your vacuum pump is not working. check the fuse first. Mine was acting exactly the same when i got it. turned out to be that the fuse was lose. I took the fuse out, put it back in properly and now they all work great
 

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1992 190E 2.3 8v w/ '87 5-speed and 3.27 rear, 1966 Shelby Cobra 427 S/C, 2018 Triumph Bonneville
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704 Posts
First check to see if the pump works at all. I'm not sure where it could be in your car but its under the rear seat (passenger side) in a rubber/foam thingy in my '92 2.3.

If the pump doesn't work, and you really want the system to work its magic, replace it.

If it DOES work, then check to see if you get vacuum from the lines. If you don't get any suction, check the lines. They might have to be replaced.

So, lets say if the pump works, you get vacuum from the lines but the locks still don't lock/unlock, check the hose connections. If they seem ok, then check the electrical connection(s) on the drivers door, passenger door, and trunk.

If you're STILL having problems...well, post what you have done and we'll try to help some more.
 

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1984 190D 2.2
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Is there any way to jump the pump?
 

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1992 190E 2.3 8v w/ '87 5-speed and 3.27 rear, 1966 Shelby Cobra 427 S/C, 2018 Triumph Bonneville
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704 Posts
Here's another thought. When I got my '92 2.3 my locks didn't work. I just kept locking and unlocking the doors and eventually it worked. So maybe its just a little bit of corrosion on the contacts.
 

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92 190E 2.6
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499 Posts
First step- check fuse (this is also the same fuse that runs the rear dome light, so if that doesn't work, there is a clue)

Second- If the fuse is good and your rear dome light works as it should, with the rear seat bottom removed and foam cover of the pump removed, try locking and listen and feel for any activation of the pump (trust me, with the seat and foam out of the way you will hear it) try this from both doors and the trunk as it could be a problem with one of the actuators.

IF your fuse is good, and IF your pump does nothing, then there lies your problem.

If the pump does start working but locks fail to move, its probably the vacuum lines.
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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39,465 Posts
The actual T piece at the end of the locking cylinder that turns left or right is cast metal and easy to crack or break.
Also, the locks have both vacuum and electric actuators.
Check the FAQ sticky manual. After removing the allen screw, unplug the electric connector, you slide / push the handle - cylinder assembly towards the rear, turn the key to open before trying to pull the assembly out (you may have to manipulate the key and inner unlock lever a few times. Careful, its easy to break that little T piece at the end.
Connect a multi tester to 2 of the contacts at a time to check lock and unlock.
I was lucky enough to find a 2.6 just being added at the wrecking yard with the key still in it.
As long as you have the key with the Donor locks, a competent locksmith can adapt the cylinders to your key.
 

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2000 :W220 - 1986 W201: 16v Nam,16v Euro- 2002:SL500 Silver Arrow.2002:Avalanche-
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2,227 Posts
Most MB has air pump vacuum & pots locking system like these :



there are same 5 pots for 4 doors & 1 trunk (optional one for gas door) , the mostly yellow air lines were used but the trunk is black ( for blend in trunk color purpose I guess) look @ the (Picture above) pump you can see three prongs plug is used for trunk electrical activator for whole car same as your main driver door.System is very simple if your pump works you can hear it runs but nothing happen in couple minutes it'll turn off then is mean air leaks but if pump is not running : pump has no power or need new pump. Vacuum pots are very tough & hardly break down but a transitional rubber connectors before goes to the pots are easy disconnected ( U or L sharp) In order to fix this maybe not cost you much but labor of love by get into your pump first and use air compressor set as low as 15 PSI (with air blowgun ) give it a pressure on your car air line after lock all your doors and trunk ..it should be some doors must open the one that fail open is a leaked guy. Doors are most-likely trouble makers, it very simple but you may need a smaller hand to get inside the doors to either replace new pot or reconnect air line (take off door panel first). If you need to replace the yellow ( or black) air line I've found the Home Depot 1/4" irrigation solid drip line is fit perfect and cheap . Factory pre run air line is hardly any broken or leaks but you have to trace its from where to where..( One or two manifolds some where under dash board..)
Good luck and enjoy it..
 

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1987 190D 2.5 Turbo, 1999 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor, 1986 190D 2.2 397,000miles
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130 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Okay i will look under the seat this afternoon. How does the seat come out? Pull on the little red tab? Also i used a volt meter to see if any power was going to the cut wires in the trunk but there was no power. But the light in the trunk does work.
 

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1984 190D 2.2
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Okay i will look under the seat this afternoon. How does the seat come out? Pull on the little red tab? Also i used a volt meter to see if any power was going to the cut wires in the trunk but there was no power. But the light in the trunk does work.
Pull the red tabs and lift up on the seat. It should just pop right out.
 

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Okay i will look under the seat this afternoon. How does the seat come out? Pull on the little red tab? Also i used a volt meter to see if any power was going to the cut wires in the trunk but there was no power. But the light in the trunk does work.
There is no relationship between trunk light and vacuum pot , open up a small cover under trunk lid closes to key lock you'll see and pot and pull that power wire of the pot and check power ,this wire has 3 leads and about 1/4" dia. You should check power from the vacuum pump first and go from there......:)
 

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1987 190D 2.5 Turbo, 1999 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor, 1986 190D 2.2 397,000miles
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130 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I have seen the red looking thing that locks and unlocks the trunk lock, it does not work. I will have more information once i get home. Also is there a way to lock the trunk when the pump does not work? I put my key in but it does not turnto lock/unlock, which leaves the trunk always unlocked which is better than locked.
 

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1984 190D 2.2
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The trunk should work without the vacuum. If you push in the key, can you turn it? Or does it not turn no matter what?
 

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2000 :W220 - 1986 W201: 16v Nam,16v Euro- 2002:SL500 Silver Arrow.2002:Avalanche-
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The trunk should work without the vacuum. If you push in the key, can you turn it? Or does it not turn no matter what?
True story, safety mandatory required key or not will open the trunk lock unless your mechanism screwed up...If system operating as OEM spec the trunk lock should works like driver door .
 

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Mercedes Benz 190D 1985 (W201)
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Uhm..
In my case everything works ok from the drivers' door, it locks and unlocks fine (trunk, gas lid, 4 doors). But if I do the same from the passengers door it won't do anything but unlock/lock manually that door (passenger)....

What could it be wrong?
 

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1996 Volvo 855GLT, 1993 MB 190e 2.3 8v, 1998 Subaru Outback SUS, 1991 BMW 525, 1998 MB C230
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Pull the red tabs and lift up on the seat. It should just pop right out.
its push the red tabs not pull.

I have seen the red looking thing that locks and unlocks the trunk lock, it does not work. I will have more information once i get home. Also is there a way to lock the trunk when the pump does not work? I put my key in but it does not turnto lock/unlock, which leaves the trunk always unlocked which is better than locked.
sounds like someone changed ur trunk lock.

Uhm..
In my case everything works ok from the drivers' door, it locks and unlocks fine (trunk, gas lid, 4 doors). But if I do the same from the passengers door it won't do anything but unlock/lock manually that door (passenger)....

What could it be wrong?
ur door tumbler is broken, like teutone stated in an earlier post. theres a weak link there and they break easily
 
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