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1982 500 SEC (Euro)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I've noticed there's only ONE vacuum diagram on the DIY section and it's not for my car but rather seems it's for the 380SEC. Then i've noticed other diagrams but they're for later versions of my car or US versions. So, after two weeks for reading the manual, here are the ENGINE VACUUM DIAGRAMS / LAYOUT / CIRCUIT for a 1982 Euro 500 SEC (C126), with explanation from yours truly.

Feel free to correct me because i know i will make some mistakes here.

First to know, for engine there are at least SEVEN vacuum connections, two on the top of the intake manifold and five on the throttle valve housing. Let's start with this diagram, Pressure Regulator Vacuum.

The pressure regulator (also known as warm up regulator regulates the control pressure that goes to the fuel distributor. More control pressure= LESS fuel to the engine. Less control pressure= more fuel to the engine.

The fuel regulator has an upper diaphragm (main diaphragm). When it goes UP, the control pressure goes UP so the mix has less fuel. When it goes DOWN, the control pressure goes DOWN so the mix has more fuel. The fuel regulator also has an thermoelectric element that will pull the diaphragm DOWN (more fuel) until heated. This is for increasing the mix when the engine is cold.

Then, the regulator also has two vacuum connections at the side, g (upper) and h (lower). This is for the lower diaphragm, located at the bottom of the regulator, which is moved by vacuum on g and h, and also influences the control pressure regulating diaphragm.

When vacuum(g)>=vacuum(h), the vacuum diaphragm on the regulator goes UP. This is the steady, normal operating state of the engine. (Thermoelectric element hot and vacuum diaphragm up==normal engine operation).

When vacuum(g)<vacuum(h); this will pull the control pressure regulating diaphragm DOWN thus increasing the mixture.

Now look at the diagram. Thermovalve 37A opens at temperatures more than 50 deg celsius. Opens==lets the vacuum pass.

Throttle housing "switchover valve" (13) normally connects C with D, unless you open the throttle all the way down; in that case, it only connects C with E.

Vacuum reservoir (14) holds up vacuum. This item perhaps is located on/under the driver's front fender. I haven't found mine yet.

Orifice (9) is just that, an orifice to change the vacuum respect to other connections.

Warm-up acceleration enrichment
So, back to the diagram. When the engine is <50ºC, thermovalve 37A is closed. Assuming throttle is not wide open, switchover valve 13 will connect C with D. On acceleration, vacuum(g)<vacuum(h) and thus the fuel mixture will be richer.

When the engine is >50ºC, thermovalve 37A effectively connects vacuum(g) with vacuum(h), so this acceleration enrichment will be cancelled.

Full throttle acceleration enrichment (temperature independent)

When throttle is wide open, C will be connected with E. This means the vacuum reservoir (13) will suck through vacuum hose H. So vacuum(g)<vacuum(h)==> FUEL ENRICHMENT!

Other connections

Connection F goes straight to the distributor for vacuum distributor timing advancement.

Connection K should go to the intake manifold for sucking the vacuum reservoir, but i still don't know where K goes.

Connection I (top of pressure regulator) should go to the "atmosphere" (and it makes sense after looking at the internals of that part) but in my car this is connected to the top of the idle speed adjusting solenoid. I assume it's almost atmosphere there. [Update: Yes, that's the right location for that connection]
 

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1982 500 SEC (Euro)
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Throttle valve connections.

Now let's go to the throttle valve connections.

A goes to the thermovalve to EGR (more on this later)
B goes to the vacuum switch for the idle speed regulator (more on this later)
C, D, E were covered on the previous post.
 

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1982 500 SEC (Euro)
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
EGR vacuum connection

Now for the EGR (Engine Gas Recirculation / Recycling / Reutilization?)

(60) is the EGR valve on top of the (31) exhaust manifold.

NOTE that the EGR pipes usually get clogged over time and that's not good since in theory that means the ignition timing RETARDING effect of the EGR is cancelled thus ignition timing is more advanced than adequate, and pinging may happen. Also you're polluting more.

Throttle vacuum connection A at throttle body is supposed to be PORTED and i suspect it should have the following behavior:

Idle: Low/no vacuum -> EGR valve closed (exhaust gasses do not pass)
Normal RPMs: Vacuum -> EGR valve opened
Full throttle: No vacuum -> EGR valve closed

Look at thermovalve (37). It's not the same than 37A. Thermovalve there means that at <50ºC, the vacuum will not be connected thus the EGR valve will not open when the engine is <50ºC. Also be careful no to connect the thermovalve in the wrong way (it has a diagonal connection and a straight one, the manual tells you not to swap them!)
 

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1982 500 SEC (Euro)
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Vacuum switch

Finally, connection (B) of the throttle body housing goes to the vacuum switch pictured (in red.) This is used by the idle speed control unit to sense engine load.

Note that this diagram is for my Euro non-catalytic converter car!! Other versions (USA) will not have the vacuum switch!

I hope some moderator pins this thread or adds it to the W126 DIY thread!!

Last but not least, let's make a minute of silence for the poor people at the USA who had to bear the pain of having MB engines with catalytic converters, low compression engines with low HP ratings, horrible headlights, and single row timing chains (on the 380) :(

Greetings,
Flavio.
 

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1982 500 SEL 126 V8 Euro Model; Engine type: 117961; tranmission: 722350
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126 running rich

Tutone and Flavio, thanks for the comprehensive advice. My car is a Gen I euro; 117961 engine type. There are no air distribution tubes for the injectors; no EGR valve in the manifold; no rear control valve at the back of the engine (that I can see); no idle mixture adjusting screw like the one present on my Gen II euro 420SE EFI with full pollution controls. The Oxygen sensors are present one at each exhaust manifold down pipe and connected to a two prong wire on each side. The spark plug wires are BERU and look recent and all are firing properly when pulled off engine running showing strong spark. Instead of the idle adjustment screw (Gen II) I see a large size half a dollar size cap with a notch on one side atop what I think is the fuel pressure regulator or idle valve and which I think is adjustable with some special tool. One hose with an inline electric valve of some sort goes to the fuel distributor. When I got the car the plug in connector to this valve was disconnected; if I connect it; the idle speed goes really bad. This car starts at the first click every morning and cold start valve seems working alright; idles fairly smooth with a noticeable small shake and starts good when warm.
 

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2004 SL500, 1993 S420, 1990 420 SEL, 1985 500SE, 1994 Toyota Supra Aerotop
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764 Posts
Can anyone give me the part no. for the vacuum switch circled in red above? I'm not sure if it's a regular solenoid or a vacuum sensor.

I'm fitting an EU 500 engine with electronic idle control to my 380 chassis. Got everything minus the idle control harness and just not sure about the vac switch. I noticed that my car has 2x vacuum solenoids in the engine bay, one was to increase idle for the A/C (won't be used anymore) and one was for air pump valve. Does the idle computer operate the air pump valve now?

P.S. - thanks to Flavio for the post, it's brilliant to have a euro diagram!
 

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1983 Euro 500SEC AMG, 83 SEC custom convertible, 2x 84 500SEC, 02 w203coupe, euro 1985 300d
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1,581 Posts
Awesome! Been looking for this for a while, thanks and this im sure will end up in the diy section!! Thanks for sharing!
 

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1982 380 SEC A/T Euro
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13 years old, but great thread to understand parts of the vacuum system

Thermoswitches 37a and 37 are red and white. Both are 50 celsius degrees. Whats the difference?

Other similar thermo valve switches originally made by Mercedes are blue, yellow, green and black. The black one is a 70 celsius degrees switch. Anyone with knowledge or a link about these type of switches, i.e. differences etc
 
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