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1979 280CE
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Discussion Starter #1
How do you remove the rod that I pointed to in the picture? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone?
 

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2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
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I assume, based on your car, that it's the rod in the front passenger door ;) ?

I removed all three doors' rods when I installed the keyless entry system. To remove the rod from the vacuum element is easy. You just have to put some muscle into it and pull it out; no turning or twisting. That's after you've removed the two bolts that attach the vacuum actuator to the door.

I've included a pic of the rod assembly. I'm not 100% certain if I laid it out correctly, but I do know that the rod detaches easily at the red arrow. I can't remember what type of attachment is used, though. The bugger is where it's attached to the door shell, where the blue arrow points. Here you need to use muscle and that destructive side we all have deep within us :thumbsup: . I used a large flat-head screwdriver and destroyed the plastic connector that attaches the assembly to the door. It's smaller than a coin, but believe me, it took a lot of prying to get it out.

Is this what you wanted to know?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
DO I have to remove the bugger(blue arrow) as you called it to remove the rod?
 

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2000 W202 Mercedes-Benz C250 Turbodiesel
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No, you don't. If you don't remove it, the V-shaped part will simply swivel when you lock and unlock the door. Just remember that the rod provides the popping action of the lock pin.

I actually had trouble that my lock pin would simply fall back after I've opened the passenger door. I doubt this will happen if you leave the V-shaped part in place. You just won't have the popping action. I cured it by using a spring that's used on the driver's side door; got it from a junk yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, how is the rod attached to the acutator? You said to pull it but, will the new one just slide in and be loose and not pop the lock.

I've got my central locking system working correctly But, if I leave it for about 10min. it will not work. The master vacuum switch is what I think is draining it because my tanks holds vacuum.
 

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Okay, here's what to do.

I'm not familiar with the vacuum element shown in your diagram, so I can't tell for certain whether it will attach in the same way. In any case, this is how to remove it using the type shown in the photos.

You don't have to unscrew the actuator from the door shell. If I recall correctly, the front door's actuator is in plain sight after you've removed the door cover and weather strip. The assembly should look something like the first photograph.

Before you try pulling the rod from the actuator, you need to push down the ribbed part that locks the rod to the actuator. Grip the rod and simply push down the locking mechanism. Once you've done this, it should expose the rod and you should be able to easily remove the actuator or rod. The ribbed part on the rod isn't thread, so it doensn't screw in; it grips the rod to the actuator.

Installation is the reverse procedure.

I appologise for not giving the correct procedure the first time. I remember now that when I tried to remove the rod from the first actuator (and not knowing that I had to push down the locking mechanism), I had to put in a lot of muscle power to pull the rod out of the actuator. Only after I've removed the actuator, did I figure out how to do it correctly :thumbsup: .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, today I went to the junk yard and they had a 1981 300cd. I couln't manage to get the actuator out bacause of the guide rail. Should I have to remove the guide rail on a coupe to remove the actuator? ALso I didn't see how the rod was attached to the actuator so I didn't remove that.
 

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Where was the actuator located exactly? And what guide rail are you referring to? I can't imagine how it could possibly be in the way of the actuator :confused: . Unfortunately I don't know what the guts of a coupe's doors look like :surrender: .

Also, in a previous post you mentioned that you think the master vacuum switch is at fault. So why do you actually want to remove the passenger side actuator if it's not faulty? Have you tested the fuel flap and trunk actuators?

It's really easy to test the master vacuum switch. Remove the two screws that fastens it to the door shell and pull off the three vacuum lines. Try to keep the rubber connectors attached to the vacuum switch.

To quickly test the one-way valve, you should be able to easily suck, but not blow through it; otherwise it's faulty.

Now, to test the locking and unlocking lines (I don't know which is which :confused: ), pull the rod to the right (red arrow), while simultaneously closing off the shown connector (use your thumb ;) ) and suck on the center line again. You shouldn't be able to suck any air. To test the other line, push the rod to the left (blue arrow), while closing off the the shown connector. Once again, you shouldn't be able to suck any air. If all three these tests are successful, then your problem doesn't lie with the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
frans-c, I came back home and got a set of sockets and got the guide rail out of my way and I was able to then remove the actuator. The reason I whanted to remove the actuator was to get the rod out. I would be easier to do so with the thing out. O'well, I got it out and that what matters.

Yes my master vacuum switch is working while the car is on and right after I turn it off.But, if I wait about 10min it will have lost all its vacuum. The tank in trunk is holding vacuum because I put a tee on it and let it sit for almost all day and then reomed the tee and it was still sucking vacuum. I did test my gas flap and the trunk lock and they hold vacuum. Also, the door actuator holds vacuum. So I've narrowed it down to a leaky master vacuum switch. What do you think? Thank for taking your time and telling me how all this stuff works:)
 

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If you've tested the vacuum switch as I indicated and all three tests were successful, then it's not it.

Have you tested the one-way valves in your engine compartment? They're also easy to test; the same as the one-way valve of the master vacuum switch. All your other components can be in tip-top shape, but if the valves are leaky, your system will loose vacuum through it.

Also, the vacuum rubber connectors in the engine compartment tend to become hard and brittle, therefore not making a good connection with the valves and lines. You should check these also.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just went to the dealer and bought 3 new yellow check valves about two weeks ago. Those things are $9.50 a piece.

NO i didn't not test the master switch because I put the door panels back on becasue there was nothing else I could do at that time. I will remove them and try the test you posted this weekend whe I get the new switch.
 

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Keep us updated with the results!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One more queston. How can I test the door lock actuator for leaks. I do not have a hand pump because $70 is alittle steep for a syrine type thing. I did buy a little $2 dollar thing, my mind just went blank on what it is called. It is one of those things were where you pull out the thing and it will draw air or push it back in the blow air, maybe you know what i'm talking about. So the real queston i'm asking is how do I test the actuater? Do I just use that thing(still can't remember what it is called) and pull air and see if it holds? Thanks sorry for not making it clear to you, we all have our moments:D
 

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Well, I think my method is quite accurate, because I could test it on an air-tight as well as a leaky actuator.

You first need to completely remove the actuator and unplug the two vacuum lines that are connected to it. Now simply suck on each end of the actuator, just like you would on a straw ;) ; you don't need to close off the other end. The actuator should move up and down quite easily - you won't have to suck hard at all.

When you suck the one end of the actuator, the part that connects to the rod should move up. As soon as it has stopped moving upwards, you shouldn't be able to suck any more. If you can, you've got a leaky actuator. Ditto for the other end - it should move down when you suck on it.

Most of the time it's the rubber diafragm (red arrow) that perishes with time and use. You can easily check its condition visually; tears are easily visible.

Strangely enough, my faulty actuator had a torn diafragm which kept vacuum in the locked, but not the unlocked position. The result was that as soon as I've shut down the engine, I had to quickly get out and lock the car. If I waited too long, the doors would refuse to lock. It didn't have this problem unlocking, holding vacuum perfectly.

You can test the fuel flap and trunk actuators in the same manner.

I doubt whether the actuator housing would spring a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update: today I put in my new rod that I got from the junk yard and put in my new master vacuum switch that I ordered last week. Everything works great, I went into the store and it still worked went I came back to the car. All in all the master vacuum switch was what was leaking all the vacuum out of the system. It sure feels like a acomplishment to get that fixed because it have not in 10 years at least. Thanks for you help or I may not have gotten this finished.
 

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Congratulations! Glad you've got it sorted out :thumbsup: .
 
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