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W126, R107, W210 AMG, W221
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Discussion Starter #1
What is the correct engine oil?
I read 15W50. I got my 500 with 10W40. My engine is making ticking noises - like hydraulic tappets need replacing. Some people told me changing the oil back to 15W50 can help tappets. What do you use in you V8's and what do you think?
 

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I use 15w40 in mine. No leaks and runs beautifully. If you live somewhere very hot(mobile app doesnt show location,) 20 50 might be for you. There is a chart in the owners manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, I live in moderate climate and travel a lot - Germany, Italy, Austria, Greece so half a year cold, half a year warm.
I have seen 20W50 in our MB Centre and it comes in a beautiful vintage box :)
 

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W124 400E, W126 500SE
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I wouldn't put anything heavier than 15W in the engine, not unless you're driving in central africa...

I have very very good experience with MoS oils (Fuchs in particular) - they look like a used oil mixed with chalk when you put them in, but they sure stick everywhere, and all my engines went quiet after a few minutes of highway driving after the oil change...

Fuchs Lubritech GmbH - Special Lubricants - MoS2-Compound
 

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'95 993 / 2011 F150 Raptor SC / Land Cruiser D4D V8 / 500 SEC
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In Germany I'd go for 10W40 or even 5W40. I don't like MoS. They're colloidals (like mayo) and they can go horribly wrong if they shift.

On the ticking issues. This does not necessaryly mean your lifters are on the way out. First check the play on the valve spacers : likely you kust need one size up to compensate for the wear. The spacers are about 10 Euro's a piece from the Benz dealer. You'll need a maximum of 16. Yu DO need the spring compression tool for installation and there's a calibration tool for measuring the wear. Maybe you can borrow it from your Benz dealer.

One step up from that is wear on the tumblers themselves. They have a reduction plate on the head designed to wear away. Replacing the tumblers (valve rockers) is also easy if you have the compression tool.

Rockers are around 50 Euro's from your Benz dealer, 30 from alternative suppiers lik SPOB and 20$ from autohausAZ, but add 30% for import taxes and VAT and about 75$ for shipping.
 

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W124 400E, W126 500SE
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In Germany I'd go for 10W40 or even 5W40. I don't like MoS. They're colloidals (like mayo) and they can go horribly wrong if they shift.
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Really? I don't use this oil for every change - only about 1/2 since that seems to do the trick to keep the engine quiet. I'd never put an oil additive in engine oil, but this is an original oil containing the mixture. Any actual bad experience? What happened?
 

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'95 993 / 2011 F150 Raptor SC / Land Cruiser D4D V8 / 500 SEC
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Hmmpf..it's always the simple questions, isn't it . OK, basic chemistry.

A SOLUTION :take two components - say water and alcohol - and put them together. Shake well. The alcohol mixes with the water. Then put it on the table and watch. Nothing happens. The two stay mixed well. It's a homogenous mixture.

A SUSPENSION : take e.g. water and put sand in it. Shake well. The mixture is heterogenous. You can identify the sand particles in the water. If you put the beaker on the table and watch for a bit you can observe the sand sinking to the bottom. After a whike the sand is clearly separated from the water.

AN EMULSION : two agents oil and water, say, are mixed together. Shake well. The two SEEM to be turned into one liquid. You cann not identify seperate agents, like you could in the suspension. But leave 'em long enough and the oil WILL rise to the top. Or most of i, anyway. Some particles will stay suspended, but that's physicsn not chemistry

A COLLOIDAL like an emulsion, but the two agents are of a different phase : liquid for the oil, and solid for the graphite.

As with the emulsion, if left long enough they WILL separate again. So an 'emulsifying agent' is added, that aids the solid to stay suspended in the oil.

So not only do you have to deal with the contamination and wear on the oil, but you have to watch the emulsifying agent.
If the oil breaks down, the deteriorating emulsifier will releas the solid (ie the graphite). This will no longer bee transported around by the oil, but will start to settle in all the nooks and crannies an engine has.

A prime candidate for this in an old benz are the oiler tubes on the cam. They will simply start to close off and severely inhibit oil flow.

This is just my 2c. You can do whatever tickles your fancy. But I wouldn't touch colloidals for an engine with a 10 ft barge pole.

Pete
 

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Hmmpf..it's always the simple questions, isn't it . OK, basic chemistry.

A SOLUTION :take two components - say water and alcohol - and put them together. Shake well. The alcohol mixes with the water. Then put it on the table and watch. Nothing happens. The two stay mixed well. It's a homogenous mixture.

A SUSPENSION : take e.g. water and put sand in it. Shake well. The mixture is heterogenous. You can identify the sand particles in the water. If you put the beaker on the table and watch for a bit you can observe the sand sinking to the bottom. After a whike the sand is clearly separated from the water.

AN EMULSION : two agents oil and water, say, are mixed together. Shake well. The two SEEM to be turned into one liquid. You cann not identify seperate agents, like you could in the suspension. But leave 'em long enough and the oil WILL rise to the top. Or most of i, anyway. Some particles will stay suspended, but that's physicsn not chemistry

A COLLOIDAL like an emulsion, but the two agents are of a different phase : liquid for the oil, and solid for the graphite.

As with the emulsion, if left long enough they WILL separate again. So an 'emulsifying agent' is added, that aids the solid to stay suspended in the oil.

So not only do you have to deal with the contamination and wear on the oil, but you have to watch the emulsifying agent.
If the oil breaks down, the deteriorating emulsifier will releas the solid (ie the graphite). This will no longer bee transported around by the oil, but will start to settle in all the nooks and crannies an engine has.

A prime candidate for this in an old benz are the oiler tubes on the cam. They will simply start to close off and severely inhibit oil flow.

This is just my 2c. You can do whatever tickles your fancy. But I wouldn't touch colloidals for an engine with a 10 ft barge pole.

Pete
Thank you for answer. That is exactly the reason I'd never put an additive like that in the oil, but this is a renowned company sells that as an "oil". I never saw any sediments left by it - but it is my daily driver, so maybe it would do harm to an engine that sits in a garage all year long while it never gets a chance to sediment in mine.
I haven't yet tried it in W126 though, so we'll see how it goes :)
 

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1995 E320 (totalled) 91 420SEL W126 (retired) 2002 S500 W220(retired); 2008 C300 Sport W204
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20W50 conventional or 15W50 synthetic. These engines call for 20W50

I also use Lucas oil treatment every other oil change and replace one of the 8 liters of oil with a liter of Lucas.
 

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I use 20W50 conventional oil per recommendation of my mechanic.
 

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W124 400E, W126 500SE
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Maybe your specs are different than european ones, but putting 20W50 in my engine is out of specs unless the ambient temperature is something like 25ºC (hot).
 

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1990 W124 200E (daily driver), 1988 C126 560SEC (weekend fun)
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Living in a rather hot climate in i put Mobil dino 20w50 in the 560 for the summer (We have seen 43 C this summer).
Planning to switch to Mobil Peak Life 5W50 when winter shows up (talking about -20 C)
 

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1991 560SEC AMG
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I have been using 20/50 for about 17 years in the 560SEC.
 
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