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Discussion Starter #1
A month ago fumes started to enter the cabin of my V220 CDI. I have taken it to our local garage twice to fix the problem. Each time the garage claimed to have 'fixed it', and I have gotten poorer and the fumes have gotten worse.

Now I want to see whether it is the dreaded injector leak problem - but I have never worked on a Merc or a diesel engine......

The fumes are visible with the engine compartment open and appear to come from the left handside of the plastic cover (don't know what the technical name for it is). The question is how do I remove the cover - is it simply a matter of disconnecting the air inlet pipe on top (screws marked 1), the star bolts on top (marked 3) and a couple at the sides (marked 2)?
Is the plastic cover just a simple cover, or is it something more special?
And, what is that narrow pipe that runs over the top of it?
Will I be able to see the injectors underneath - and possibly the leak?
Many thanks for any help,
Christof
 

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Yup. it's quite easy to get off. You will need some hex sockets to remove the bolts though.

Remove the air inlet pipe.

Then start on the cover. There are bolts at the rear of teh cover also quite far back with can be fiddly to get to.

Once you remove the main cover, you will see a black flat plastic cover with a hose coming out of the top of it. Quite obvious to see.

The pipe under this cover works loose and is a pain in the arse to refit. When you take the cover and pipe off, remove the pipe from said crap cover and throw it away. At this point you will now be able to see your injector heads.

Spray some WD40 or similar directly into seats of the injectors and start the engine. You will see if any are leaking or if all are sound. Worth trying just for peace of mind and a quick squirt of fluid. :thumbsup:

Make sure you have no black gunk carbon byuild up on the head of the injectors. If you have, it's a horrid cleaning job for you.

Reassemble once happy but leave that plastic cover with the pipe off out. Mines been off ages now with no problems and makes for putting the pipe onto the outlet much easier. (you'll understand when you see it)

Good luck with it. :thumbsup:
 

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Just a note to add, You need to remove the EGR valve/part. Be careful not to damage this by dropping or twisting it. (highlighted pink)

All the red arrows indicate the obvious stuff to remove.

The yellow arrow, you don't actually need to remove this pipe. I haven't done on any occasion I stripped mine down.
 

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I am going to do this job too, to replace heater/glow plug. Thanks for advice.
Do you need to get any gaskets or seals, I'd rather get them in advance if needed.
Thanks again
Grav
 

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Can't say as I needed any. IIRC there could have been a rubber o ring type washer on the plastic manifold but none of mine were damaged or worn. I was tempted to blank the EGR valve off mind....Then promptly forgot. :eek::rolleyes:

Oh one other thing on mine, when I tried to remove the plastic plate underneath it fouled on some parts which were bolted to the bulkhead. Just unbolt them and lift them out of the way rather than disconnect a load of other stuff.

I didn't get any fault codes either when stripping mine down or rebuilding it. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thick black tar....

OK, many thanks for the encouragement! I took off the big pipe (from the air filter) and undid all the bolts I could find, including a few hidden ones round the back of the cover. The top cover came off nicely. But, it revealed a load of black tar. I presume the four large holes visible at the front come from the engine block and are meant to provide a pathway for 'leaking' fumes to be recycled back into the engine. The two lefthand ones were covered in dry carbon. The two on the right had a lot of black sludgy tar in them (see picture) - is this normal? The metal bit on the right (see second image)- which I presume allow the spilt fumes back into the air intake was full of black tar. I tried to clean it out, but I think I may just have completely blocked it since the fumes are now worse than ever. I didn't take the cover off to look at the injectors - there did not seem to be much point since I am fairly sure this mass of tar must have something to do with my problem.
The question is what to do next. Should I strip it down again and take that metal valve (did you call it the EVR) off and try and clean it out thoroughly? Any ideas?
Greetings,
Christof
 

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That metal part is yoru EGR valve. All mine were caked in soft black tar too. I cleaned them all out with some powerful degreasant/cleaner we have at work.

Might be worth trying petrol or something equally powerful and a toothbrush/flexi brush for down the manifold.

Personally for the sake of another 10 minutes I WOULD take the plastic cover off just to check yoru injectors haven't 'chuffed' a load of unused diesel out and that is baked onto the head. This would cause fumes as it bakes the unused fuel onto the injector heads. NOT good! It is a pain in the backside to clean off and mega messy! Don't wait till it's too late to do them if you are so far into a stripdown.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great! I think I can take the EGR valve off and clean it. Also, cleaning the cover I have removed wouldn't be too difficult. But, what about the manifold that is still attached to the engine? If I try and clean that won't I free lots of grime that will then get sucked into the engine? Is that OK?
I have reassembled everything, because I need the car early tomorrow morning. I have now noticed that it goes into 'limp' or safe mode when I try and accelerate away....I don't know whether I have caused that to happen - any ideas?
 

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I've never had mine go into limp mode fortunately.

If you try to clean the lower manifold it would drop crap into the engine i'd guess. Maybe a powerful vac whilst scraping some off? Just don't let your mrs see you using the dyson to remove dirty carbon build up. They tend not to like it. :eek:
 

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christof, your problem is probably 99% certain to be a leaking injector seal. it's a tough job but for the sake of your health and your cylinder head, i'd recommend getting it sorted ASAP. the longer you drive the vehicle, the more gunk is deposited - until you get into a situation where the injectors are completely welded to the head. you'll also be down on compression in one or more cylinders, thus shagging your MPG.

to get at the injectors, you need to take the black cover off the head, as mr lee has already pointed out.

the 'gunk' is raw exhaust gas and partially burned diesel. this stuff gets into the mucosal membrane of your lungs and can cause all sorts of nastyness. I was lucky to get away with headaches - but it wasn't funny driving down motorways with both windows down in december!

this is one of the main achilles heels of the vito - there are loads of threads on here to help you out if you decide to tackle the job yourself. be aware that a lot of garages (merc included) are aware of this issue, and will use it as an excuse to empty your wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yep, leaking injectors!

OK, I just got back from a 150mile drive - in limp mode - and have taken everything apart again. One blot sheared off with the thread stuck in the block (red arrow on image). But, I think it is only a pipe support - I don't think I need to worry too much about that. The left two injectors seem to have been leaking......possibly for some time. I will now have to start cleaning it up. Should I try and replace them myself? Or now I know what is wrong should I take it to a garage? Does anyone know of a good source of new injectors, or should I try and remove them and simply replace the seals.....
Oh, by the way I also think I know why it was in limp mode - and with no turbo. I forgot to attach the tube from what I suspect is a turbo pressure switch to the large black plastic cover. Silly me...at least I didn't leave a paper towel in the air intake!
 

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OK, I just got back from a 150mile drive - in limp mode - and have taken everything apart again. One blot sheared off with the thread stuck in the block (red arrow on image). But, I think it is only a pipe support - I don't think I need to worry too much about that. The left two injectors seem to have been leaking......possibly for some time. I will now have to start cleaning it up. Should I try and replace them myself? Or now I know what is wrong should I take it to a garage? Does anyone know of a good source of new injectors, or should I try and remove them and simply replace the seals.....
Oh, by the way I also think I know why it was in limp mode - and with no turbo. I forgot to attach the tube from what I suspect is a turbo pressure switch to the large black plastic cover. Silly me...at least I didn't leave a paper towel in the air intake!
Doing as much work as possible yourself is the best bet. First off I would NOT try to re-use the bolts you take out from the injectors. they are such a fine thread and normally caked in crap it would be cheap insurance to replace them with new ones.

You need to clean as much crap as possible from the head and get an old vac to suck any bits out prior to removing your injectors.

To remove the injectors, Unclip the electrics to the top and also unplug the injector hose from the head of the fitting, remove the bolt holding them in. There is then a horseshoe type clamp which slides in sideways holding the injector in. If the injectors are seized or tight in then spray a little Wd40 into the bases of them and then try to twist them slightly side to side. I have a small mini pry bar (made by snap on. Tis perfect for the job) and wiggled them side to side to free them off. Then start to pry them upwards whilst twisting them side to side. They are tight to get out. When it does eventually come out be careful, mine shot out the last 1/2" with a pop and almost out of my hand. Make sure you get the old washer out at the same time. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN. If it drops in you need a bit of wire hooked to grab it. I used a small mirror, coat hanger and a torch to see what I was doing. Make sure the cylinder head is clean.

Clean the sides only!!!!!! of the injector up on a bench wire brush and then check for any cracks in the lower caps. One of mine was cracked so replacing the washers with new ones would have been a waste of time.

if you can, take the removed injectors to a diesel specialist to check over and service. Worth it and cheaper than replacing them. Most will do it as you wait if you prebook. The crack I had in mine was invisible to the eye but once put on the machine and under pressure it opened up and leaked.

Get a new washer and anneal (sp?) it then start to rebuild everything in reverse of the strip down.

Where abouts are you located? I only ask due to knowing a very very good lad who services and repairs injectors and he made mine spot on. But more so, if you are local to me, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, I don't mind lending you the two proper injector bore cleaning brushes I have on the basis you return them of course. :thumbsup: These make sure the bore is spotless too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Right, I have spent the past hour chipping away at the black tar. The really hard stuff comes away quite nicely, it is the sticky stuff that is the problem. I have been using an old vacuum cleaner and a bit of blowing and sucking! At least now the base of the injectors and the bolts are visible. I have also cleaned by the EGR valve and checked it works - it must surely now be the cleanest valve this side of the Fens!
Thank you for your detailed instructions. I may well try and do it myself - but I am getting awfully short of time now. I think I will ring around and see if I can find a diesel specialist and listen to what they say.
I have this terrible feeling that if I attempt to shift those injectors it will end in disaster. Mind you I was hesitant about taking that manifold off in the first place!
We are down in Cambridge - my wife is very impressed with your instructions. She suggested I drive the van up to Huddersfield and pay you to do it!
 

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Right, I have spent the past hour chipping away at the black tar. The really hard stuff comes away quite nicely, it is the sticky stuff that is the problem. I have been using an old vacuum cleaner and a bit of blowing and sucking! At least now the base of the injectors and the bolts are visible. I have also cleaned by the EGR valve and checked it works - it must surely now be the cleanest valve this side of the Fens!
Thank you for your detailed instructions. I may well try and do it myself - but I am getting awfully short of time now. I think I will ring around and see if I can find a diesel specialist and listen to what they say.
I have this terrible feeling that if I attempt to shift those injectors it will end in disaster. Mind you I was hesitant about taking that manifold off in the first place!
We are down in Cambridge - my wife is very impressed with your instructions. She suggested I drive the van up to Huddersfield and pay you to do it!
you're going through exactly what i went through, though I was lucky to spot the problem very early, meaning there was barely any gunk to clean up.

after getting a quote of £1500 from my local merc commercial dealer to fix, I remember popping the bonnet, looking at it all, and wondering whether I should just try to offload the van in part ex rather than go through the hassle of fixing it myself. but i've done this too much in the past, lost lots of money in the process, and I was damned if I was going to piss away yet more $$$. so I rolled my sleeves up - literally - and got on with it.

this is exactly the right time of year to sort it out. I had to do my injectors in december... not funny when you don't have a garage. go to halfords, buy a proper torx socket set, get some plusgas, and have a go yourself. as long as you have access to an alternative form of transport in case you need to pop out and get bits, and you're reasonably confident, you can get it done.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I haven't had much luck finding a garage. I was hoping to find someone who said; "Oh, yeah those diesel Vito injectors, get'em in here all the time - bugger to get at but Clive does one of those a week."
So, I need a bit more advice. With the various plastic covers off and the top of the injectors exposed, what do I need to connect-up so I can safely crank over the engine and see which injectors are leaking? Presumably I need the air pipe going across the top from the air filter. But, what about the manifold at the bottom (the four large holes covered with kitchen roll in my pic) - are they an input or an output? I assume the EGR valve won't do much and can be left uncovered. Also, the hose from just behind the injector that connects to a flow sensor (?) can also be left open. I know, from experience, that the small pipe to the turbo sensor also can be left disconnected.
 

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I haven't had much luck finding a garage. I was hoping to find someone who said; "Oh, yeah those diesel Vito injectors, get'em in here all the time - bugger to get at but Clive does one of those a week."
So, I need a bit more advice. With the various plastic covers off and the top of the injectors exposed, what do I need to connect-up so I can safely crank over the engine and see which injectors are leaking? Presumably I need the air pipe going across the top from the air filter. But, what about the manifold at the bottom (the four large holes covered with kitchen roll in my pic) - are they an input or an output? I assume the EGR valve won't do much and can be left uncovered. Also, the hose from just behind the injector that connects to a flow sensor (?) can also be left open. I know, from experience, that the small pipe to the turbo sensor also can be left disconnected.

remove the plastic cover, remove the kitchen roll, might be wise to reconnect the EGR valve purely because it's quiter, leave the diesel pipes ontop of the injectors and crank it over. Once running if you spray WD40 into the bases of each injector you should see bubbles or a definate chuffing from them. :thumbsup:
 

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Carbon removed!

I have cleaned away as much of the carbon as possible using a flat head screw driver and a vacuum cleaner (see pic). I cranked over the engine - no need to spray any WD40 - the blasts of air clearly come from the lefthand injector. I have found a garage (Manchetts in Burwell who deal with Commercial Vehicles) I have dropped it off for them to have a go at removing the injector(s). I looked at getting an injector removal tool, but they are very expensive even to hire.
 

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I have cleaned away as much of the carbon as possible using a flat head screw driver and a vacuum cleaner (see pic). I cranked over the engine - no need to spray any WD40 - the blasts of air clearly come from the lefthand injector. I have found a garage (Manchetts in Burwell who deal with Commercial Vehicles) I have dropped it off for them to have a go at removing the injector(s). I looked at getting an injector removal tool, but they are very expensive even to hire.
don't go mad buying or hiring tools just yet, you may luck out and the injector (s) might well come out with hand pressure.

i bought a brand new one off ebay (from fondera) for £130. this was after a fella on here lent me his, and i stupidly managed to wreck the thread on the extraction bolt. it took three evenings of 5pm - 11pm effort to finally remove a stuck injector. but don't let that put you off!

mr lee's advice with the wd40 is bang on. also, starting the engine will warm up the block and the head, making the injectors easier to extract.

how much has that garage quoted you?
 

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The first injector I had go took me about 3 hours to wrestle out. :mad:

The second one virtually jumped out it started to knock and chuff that badly.

Third one, I had out within 30 minutes of popping the bonnet. :D:thumbsup: That included stripping it down too. :p

Christof, are they just removing the injector for you or servicing it/ If they are servicing it, they will basically send it off to a specialist and charge you extra for the priveledge. :(

Hope you get a speedy turn around and a decent price though mucka. :thumbsup:
 

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hi, i have the same problem with my y-reg 220 cdi - but the carbon deposits are rock solid - i was quoted a few thousand pounds to get it fixed so i did not do anything to it yet - also, i can only start the engine now by using some easy start spray - the car has been sitting there for a few months now- did the Manchetts garage fix the problem for you? how much did it cost?
 
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