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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gm guys , I appreciate all you guys do here.

my car currently displays this, pic attached.
What can be the problem
Can the vehicle be driven safely with this light illuminated?

Lastly, when I’m driving and and once I push gas rear passenger wheel kinda off squeakes, as soon as I let go of the gas it stops and if I press the gas again the sound comes back and once I keep pressing it goes away What could be the cause of this sound. This sound does not happen frequently it only happens when I try to push gas and once it moves past that stage of me pushing gas the sound stops. Example : I press gas the sound comes on , I keep pressing the sound comes in and if I keep pressing it the goes away , kind off like when you trying to hold something down and if you keep pushing it drags itself past that stag of the noise. Dunno if anyone understands me but I pray someone does. I just bought this car and I’m kinda having some disappointment on the purchase. It’s premium package 3 and I paid $8,000 for it. 130k miles on dash.

now this sound I’m talking about only comes from the right left wheel only.

thanks guys
 

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1997 C280 , 2008 S550
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Your electronic parking brake motor died. Do not try to operate the parking brake again until it is fixed. It sounds like the parking brake is locked and you will need to activate the emergency release, which is located under a rubber plug located above and to the right of the gas filler cap. You will need the special T-shaped tool to screw/attach to the end of the release cable and pull.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks bro. You are a life saver. So if I pul the cable will the light go off? Is it safe to drive the car on the current situation? Any idea why I’m having that intermittent drag when I accelerate and once I keep accelerating the noise goes off ? Please advice? When I put the Beckett to hear it moves without any gas pushing on it’s on, is it possible that the parking brakes is not disengaged even with the vehicle mobile by itself? I’m sorta confused here .Thanks
 

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2006 S500 4matic, 2005 S500
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Had a like issue, ended up being the front speed sensors. They were failing and I suspect telling the car to brake. After a very short while the system would allow the car to be driven without the ABS applying brakes.

Replace your front speed sensors is something I would be looking at.
 

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2007 E220CDI, 1990 300E-24V, 1987 W124 3.6 AMG build 1993 E500 W124, 94 320CE, 1997 W140 S280
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Had a like issue, ended up being the front speed sensors. They were failing and I suspect telling the car to brake. After a very short while the system would allow the car to be driven without the ABS applying brakes.

Replace your front speed sensors is something I would be looking at.
Wheel speed sensors should only be replaced with genuine MB Parts. Which will be expensive on a w221.

Really the OP ought to get his car on Star and get proper codes from it. Clear them, and monitor again for new codes. And watch the speed sensor data on Star to look for anomalies for example.

Don't start throwing parts at it- get it in Star (SDS whatever) as soon as you can.
 

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The good news is the problem is probably caused by a speed sensor or ABS sensor, something at the wheel, and those parts don't cost a whole lot. You need to find a independent german car repair shop that's honest and knowledgeable and they can figure it out for you, either tow the car to them or have it taken there on a flatbed. If you have a AAA membership the towing is free. Last resort you could have a dealership fix it but that's a gamble because some of those are dishonest as the day is long. JC220 is right, the SDS will likely tell you exactly what part has gone bad. I wouldn't drive the car if it's stopping while you're driving, or unsafe in any way. I have a GL450 SUV that had a wheel speed sensor go bad and the brakes at that wheel would lock up after moving about three feet. After about ten tries, I was able to drive it home carefully and slowly, but next day, same issue. Took a lot of shutdown/restart tries but I was finally able to drive it slowly to a shop where they diagnosed and fixed it. In that case, it was actually a recall where the factory had tied the wires for that rear wheel sensor too tightly together, eventually they fray I guess... and when the shop ordered a new harness, what was delivered instead was a harness repair kit at no charge.
 

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Thanks bro. You are a life saver. So if I pul the cable will the light go off? Is it safe to drive the car on the current situation? Any idea why I’m having that intermittent drag when I accelerate and once I keep accelerating the noise goes off ? Please advice? When I put the Beckett to hear it moves without any gas pushing on it’s on, is it possible that the parking brakes is not disengaged even with the vehicle mobile by itself? I’m sorta confused here .Thanks
When pulling the emergency release cable, the message should go away. Don't engage the parking brake again until it gets fixed.

This parking brake has an automatic release feature (for the lazy people). If you put in drive or reverse and give it some gas, the brakes will drag for about few feet before it auto-releases. The other posters are talking about the wheel speed sensors. If the wheel sensor(s) went bad, you would get an ABS/ESP malfunction message instead. Both the gas pedal and wheel sensors need to work in order for the auto-disengage parking brake to work.

The other traditional way to disengage is to pull the parking brake handle under the dash to override the above feature. Engaging and disengaging the handle, you should hear an electric motor at the rear axle run for about 2 seconds. If you don't or barely running, the motor is dead and needs to be replaced. It is located above the driver's side rear axle and the parking brake assembly needs to be pulled out in order to be replaced. See photos at bottom.

You can get a replacement motor here: New Parking Brake Actuator Motor Fit for Mercedes W221 S350 S400 S550 W216 CL550 | eBay

Here is a video link on how to replace that motor. See:

See photos below. The parking brake is a drum brake at the rear wheels only. It is inside the hub of the brake disc. To remove the parking brake unit, both L-R cables need to be unhooked from the drum brake (a pain in the rear) and unclip the emergency release cable from behind. (You have to remove the rear passenger side inner fender liner to get up to it.) Unplug the electrical connector and remove the nuts holding the unit. Pull it out, then follow the video above to replace the motor.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When pulling the emergency release cable, the message should go away. Don't engage the parking brake again until it gets fixed.

This parking brake has an automatic release feature (for the lazy people). If you put in drive or reverse and give it some gas, the brakes will drag for about few feet before it auto-releases. The other posters are talking about the wheel speed sensors. If the wheel sensor(s) went bad, you would get an ABS/ESP malfunction message instead. Both the gas pedal and wheel sensors need to work in order for the auto-disengage parking brake to work.

The other traditional way to disengage is to pull the parking brake handle under the dash to override the above feature. Engaging and disengaging the handle, you should hear an electric motor at the rear axle run for about 2 seconds. If you don't or barely running, the motor is dead and needs to be replaced. It is located above the driver's side rear axle and the parking brake assembly needs to be pulled out in order to be replaced. See photos at bottom.

You can get a replacement motor here: New Parking Brake Actuator Motor Fit for Mercedes W221 S350 S400 S550 W216 CL550 | eBay

Here is a video link on how to replace that motor. See:

See photos below. The parking brake is a drum brake at the rear wheels only. It is inside the hub of the brake disc. To remove the parking brake unit, both L-R cables need to be unhooked from the drum brake (a pain in the rear) and unclip the emergency release cable from behind. (You have to remove the rear passenger side inner fender liner to get up to it.) Unplug the electrical connector and remove the nuts holding the unit. Pull it out, then follow the video above to replace the motor.

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Are you saying that if I release the emergency brake from the gas tank , the intermittent drag and on and off squeaking noise I’m experiencing on the rear right wheel when i try to go past gear 1 or climb a hill will go away? Why am I experiencing those things in the right rear wheel? When the car is on a flat surface it moves by it self on drive or reverse which makes me wonder if the parking brake is really engaged cuz I thought the vehicle will not be able to move if a car has the parking brakes on but mines rolls by itself front and back. How do I know for sure the parking brakes are engaged currently ? The car rolls by itself when put in gear and reverse.
 

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Pulling the emergency cable should release the drag on your brakes. The intermittent drag sounds like a half-engaged parking brake and the motor died halfway through. Fully engaged, and the car should not roll. These parking brakes are drum brakes and they need to be adjusted with the correct amount of drag prior to installing the brake disc. Adjustment is done by the star wheel to push the brake shoes outward. See the attached photo. You can never get the left and right with an equal amount of drag, but close, which is probably why you have dragging on the right side. There is no automatic adjuster for these drum brakes, unfortunately. This is like drum brakes on a 1950's car.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pulling the emergency cable should release the drag on your brakes. The intermittent drag sounds like a half-engaged parking brake and the motor died halfway through. Fully engaged, and the car should not roll. These parking brakes are drum brakes and they need to be adjusted with the correct amount of drag prior to installing the brake disc. Adjustment is done by the star wheel to push the brake shoes outward. See the attached photo. You can never get the left and right with an equal amount of drag, but close, which is probably why you have dragging on the right side. There is no automatic adjuster for these drum brakes, unfortunately. This is like drum brakes on a 1950's car.

View attachment 2718210
So you are saying once I pull that stuff on gas tank I should be fine with no more dragging while accelerating up the hill or going to second gear? And the light should go off as well? Is that what u mean?
 

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So you are saying once I pull that stuff on gas tank I should be fine with no more dragging while accelerating up the hill or going to second gear? And the light should go off as well? Is that what u mean?
Yes, you may also use a Needle nose pliers to pull it.
But you should fix it ASAP, remember lubricant every hinges in the drum brake.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update

So I got tool and pulled the emergency parking brake inside the fuel tank door , the light is still on the dash. Took to an indie guy he said the noise from the rear wheel is not associated with the parking brake light on. He further said the parking brake is not even engaging or disengaging at all and not sure why the parking brake light is on, he said I can drive the car as is until I figure what the light cause might be . So I left. Any suggestions here guys cuz I have tried pulling the cable from the gas tank area and light was still illuminating. Thanks
 

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If the parking brake is not engaging or disengaging that is already the problem, you need to take out the parking brake unit as I mentioned earlier, and see why it is not working. Probably a dead motor, which is why you are getting the error message.
 

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Update

So I got tool and pulled the emergency parking brake inside the fuel tank door , the light is still on the dash. Took to an indie guy he said the noise from the rear wheel is not associated with the parking brake light on. He further said the parking brake is not even engaging or disengaging at all and not sure why the parking brake light is on, he said I can drive the car as is until I figure what the light cause might be . So I left. Any suggestions here guys cuz I have tried pulling the cable from the gas tank area and light was still illuminating. Thanks
Water damage gremlins.
 
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