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1972 350sl 240k miles silver with blue interior. 1973 450sl
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total time including putting it on the lift, taking photos, torquing wheel and pulling it out of garage, 28 minutes.
tools required two 3/4" wrenches, lug nut socket and air gun, hammer, torque wrench.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
total time including putting it on the lift, taking photos, torquing wheel and pulling it out of garage, 28 minutes.
tools required two 3/4" wrenches, lug nut socket and air gun, hammer, torque wrench.
Good you got it done! Just one side needed replacing?

Did you have jack under the LCA and disconnect shock and sway bar link as some instructions say?
I see you also didn't disconnect the brake line - some guys do, some don't.

No doubt the upper is an easy job compared with lower that needs the spring and LCA out and the ball joint then pressed out.

My car is on lift at friends house. I was going to help, but he is fitting work in between baby sitting and finishing work on another car plus doing his regular job. So I am leaving him to it! Hopefully done next week.
 

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1972 350sl 240k miles silver with blue interior. 1973 450sl
Joined
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101 Posts
only one side was bad, no need to replace the other side. changing all the front suspension may be done over the winter but we want to drive the car over the next month or so. I did not remove the brake line, shock or nor did I have to support the lower control arm. there was no tension in the brake line at any time and I believe the shock was keeping the lower in place.
this was probably the easiest project I have ever had to do on this car.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Interesting that you could do that. It certainly makes the job a lot easier. Most of the instructions say to support the LCA or to insert a spring compressor. Can only assume this is a safety so spring tension is not just resisted by just the shock and stabilizer link.
FSM 33-500 also says to remove the steering arm from the steering knuckle. Can't see why when just replacing upper control arm?
In my case, knowing how you did it, I could have just replaced the uppers myself in my garage. But because of bad back, decided to get help. And with lift available, decided might as well change lower joints and bushings while we are in there.
 

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Registered
1972 350sl 240k miles silver with blue interior. 1973 450sl
Joined
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101 Posts
I was prepared to support the lower control arm, as I normally would but I loosened the nut on the ball joint leaving the nut on last few turns. I smacked the spindle with the hammer and the upper control arm popped up. when I pushed the upper back down there was no tension on anything so I knew I could just remove the nut and continue on without support. maybe the later cars are different?
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
My car is back on road with new upper control arms.

Also, new lower ball joints and LCA inner bushings and cam bolts.

Going for alignment tomorrow.

Hard to tell, but it doesn't seem to me that there was anything wrong with the upper ball joints (as local shop said)
 
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