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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My local shop tells me that the clicking noise I posted about before, is caused by bad upper ball joints.

I have some questions about replacement.

Has anyone used the 3 bolt add-on ball joints on a 72 or 73 107? Do they make any sense?

Have to run - more questions later
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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179 Posts
I have not but I did end up buying an upper control arm with a not too bad ball joint still attached, grease boot not bad at all although not new by any means. It’s an easy job so you might be interested in it if you just want to try out the one side (driver side) but if you get info on this replacement and want to go that direction that may make more sense anyways just kind of throwing it out there. If you have ok ball joints but you want to get rid of the sound and wait till they are completely shot to replace it makes sense.

I’ll know any day now if I’m going to use it or not and if not i’ll be happy to sell you the whole upper control arm for what I paid which is around $65 after tax.
 

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1988 560SL Currently, 1972 350SL (RIP)
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179 Posts
ahh just read the other post and i see it’s worse on passenger side but you’ll likely need both so probably not a good fit for your situation. The offer stands for anyone reading this and i’ll throw it up in for sale section when i officially know if I need it or not
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks anyway. With us being on other side or border, shipping soon eats up any savings.

I just wish RockAuto had these parts, they ship by Fedex at low rates and include customs clearance taxes etc. Looking for Canadian supplier, but none yet.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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10,880 Posts
My local shop tells me that the clicking noise I posted about before, is caused by bad upper ball joints.

I have some questions about replacement.

Has anyone used the 3 bolt add-on ball joints on a 72 or 73 107? Do they make any sense?

Have to run - more questions later
I haven't used them on a 107 but almost all US cars had upper ball joints riveted on. For service, they were sheared off and replaced with nuts and bolts.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I assuming it might make sense to replace both UCAs, both lower ball joints and the LCA inner bushings and eccentric bolts. This instead of doing job again sometime?

Assuming steering linkage is good (or can easily be replaced later if need be), is there anything else that I would need?
For example, do these parts come with all nuts and bushings needed for installation?

EPC shows same part numbers as vendors do but also has separate numbers for items like the ball joint nuts. They don't show a number for the LCA inner bushing - just the eccentric bolt (bushing likely part of LCA part number). Do I need two pairs of those eccentric bolts?

Upper control arms 1153303807 & 1153303907

Ball joints

LCA inner bushings and eccentric bolts

The cost of the above comes to about US$350 including shipping. Taxes (13%) and import fees extra. Something over C$600.
I received a price from a Canadian company - $1300 plus tax for aftermarket. For Genuine MB over $3000 after a substantial discount! Crazy.

How many hours labor would you estimate if I have the same shop install?
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I haven't used them on a 107 but almost all US cars had upper ball joints riveted on. For service, they were sheared off and replaced with nuts and bolts.
Certainly an option. Pelican say the Meyle ball joints fit my 72.

Only about $14 each. Might be a cheap option if they could be R&R ed in place. But if UCA removed, inner bushings may then need replacing. Then cost is about 2/3 of complete UCA and more work needed to remove rivets.
 

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1972 350sl 240k miles silver with blue interior. 1973 450sl
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101 Posts
since my car has almost a quarter million miles on it I am going to change the whole upper control arm do to a bad ball joint. I am buying a mb upper control arm new for under $120. hopefully the part will come in this week and I can put it in this weekend. I will post my results and time spent.
if you do just replace the ball joint it looks to be as simple as many of the American cars I have done.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Given the low prices of the UCAs, it probably doesn't make sense to mess with drilling out rivets, especially if control arm has to be taken out anyway to get access.
I am looking for a good source of parts. Best pricing is this one : Control Arm - Part #115-330-39-07 | Mercedes Parts Center but they don't ship to Canada :( If it wasn't for Covid, we would be in USA in January and I would wait until then. Febi are about same price, so will likely go with them although Pelican have MB for about $125 each (less 10% if I sign up for their newsletter!)

Thinking that it may make sense to replace lower ball joint and LCA bushings/eccentric bolt at same time, then get aligned. On the other hand, I suppose UCAs could be replaced first and see if that cures the clicking front noise.

OK, my guy in Canada came through with competitive prices! Febi-Bilstein UCAs & LCA bushings and Lemfoerder lower ball joints. C$450 including shipping (- about same as Peachparts without shipping/import fees etc)
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Discussion Starter #10
No luck yet locating a capable shop to install the new parts.

Discussing a DIY job with younger W123 expert friend who is looking for jobs. My description of job as I see it posted here. Appreciate all comments!

 

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1972 350sl 240k miles silver with blue interior. 1973 450sl
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101 Posts
my control arm came in but I have a friends car stuck on my lift. should get to it next week and I will post the swop.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I have all parts to do UCAs, lower ball joints and LCA bushings/cam bolts. Waiting for friend with lift to get back from trip. May do it later this week. Uppers look like easy job. Work on lower needs spring out and old cam bolts could be tough to remove. We will find out!
 

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'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold
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2,956 Posts
I get the same noise as yours but much more pronounced and only near the end of a full turn. Weight balance changes at the same time so my take was the subframe mounts begins metal-to-metal
When I drop the subframe for welding gussets, pending your outcome I may want to replace the CA joints...so eager to hear if this fixes it.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Not counting on it, but I am hoping this is it!
My subframe mounts were changed along with motor mounts probably about 6 or 7 years ago. Maybe longer, but haven't done many km since.
My noise is similar. Mainly at end of travel when making sharp turn, but then also at random points when turning back from full lock
 

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'80 450SLC Afro RHD Ikonengold
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Just crossed my mind as i was dug under my girl for oil service, lamenting over perished subframe mounts: the spring rubber cups/buffers are also perished on my car.
Perhaps this is causing the squeak as you turn the wheel. Spring moving metal on metal on the Control Arm (instead on rubber)
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
Joined
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Just crossed my mind as i was dug under my girl for oil service, lamenting over perished subframe mounts: the spring rubber cups/buffers are also perished on my car.
Perhaps this is causing the squeak as you turn the wheel. Spring moving metal on metal on the Control Arm (instead on rubber)
That has passed my mind. I had same thought when we were looking for a noise on my W123. Local shop even said the spring was likely broken. Turned out not to be the case. I did buy new shims (cups) but they had to be ordered from Germany. Never installed them.
How were you able to check those shims? They are up inside the subframe spring perch. There is a good size opening at top but how to inspect? Maybe snake camera?
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,960 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
No need for me to check! As it turns out, the shims for the W123 are the same part number as those for the R107. I have the pair I didn't install on the W123. They are 18mm. Don't know what the ones in the 107 are, but at least these will fit if existing are bad.
 

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1972 350sl 240k miles silver with blue interior. 1973 450sl
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101 Posts
swopped out the upper control arm today. started by removing the tire and the upper ball joint nut.
IMG_1199.JPG
 
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