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1994 E320 sedan
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UPDATED Q & A on M104.992 Engine, Timing-Chain Cover-Gasket R&R & the Leaking Gaposis.

This parts interface has a design flaw that tends to cause oil leaks. I won't get into any more detail here though, but it's an issue on the juicy M104 engine.
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OK, I've been following this thread @ Pelican's forum for over a week & many hours spent studying it on the finer points of the Timing-Chain Cover-Gasket R&R.

I made a suggestion for a possible solution & would like feedback. I'll add the link in case anyone here is there too & vice versa.

Please peruse at source below, & mod's, relocate this post as desired, just ping me to let me know where the hell it is. Thanks!

M104.992 / 95E320 Timing Cover Seal Replacement Steps and Pics - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum
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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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There is no "design flaw". You're simply dealing with 3 different metals, each having different expansion rates, that join at one place.

As long as you use the proper Hylomar anaerobic sealant, and use it sparingly (just a small dab at each end of the U groove inside the seal) you're golden.
 

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96 E320
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There is no "design flaw". You're simply dealing with 3 different metals, each having different expansion rates, that join at one place.

As long as you use the proper Hylomar anaerobic sealant, and use it sparingly (just a small dab at each end of the U groove inside the seal) you're golden.
I checked Hylomar’s website and saw HY5173 and HY5174 for gaskets. I assume you’re using one of these two? Good info for the next time I do this valve cover R&R. Also are they similar to other RTV sealants?
 

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Use genuine MB sealant. There are various types of Hylomar depending on application, such as aerospace, etc.

Do NOT use RTV sealants on these engines, ever.
 

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One more thing, if you're only doing the valve cover gasket and duct seals then you don't need any Hylomar. The valve cover gasket goes on dry.

Only the timing cover requires Hylomar.
 

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04 odyssey (265k) 1995 E320 wagon (295k)
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I've done my 1995 m104 timing cover. Used Victor reinz reinzoil or something. It's the correct stuff for the job. Scotchbrite and brake cleaner wipedown to make it a clean surface.
Ran a bead around timing cover, and a blob in the back corners to seal the gap. Want enough blob that it fills gap in, but doesn't make a mess.
Also did cam magnets too. No more leaks, dry and clean top of the engine ?
Get valve cover gaskets (half moons are fun..)
 

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1994 E320 sedan
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Discussion Starter #8
I've done my 1995 m104 timing cover. Used Victor reinz reinzoil or something. It's the correct stuff for the job. Scotchbrite and brake cleaner wipedown to make it a clean surface.
Ran a bead around timing cover, and a blob in the back corners to seal the gap. Want enough blob that it fills gap in, but doesn't make a mess.
Also did cam magnets too. No more leaks, dry and clean top of the engine ?
Get valve cover gaskets (half moons are fun..)
Where the channel gasket sits, in the trough, as seen w/ timing cover removed, was it leaking on both sides, or only the passenger side when you discovered the leak? I'm assuming you did this out of necessity. I've not had a chance yet to observe mine & it's disabled now, (disassembled awaiting for Valve Cover Gasket set, etc.), so I can't get the engine warm to see if it's leaking there.

On a side note which should perhaps be another thread, I'm unable to remove my Valve-Cover Breather-Seals, Genuine Mercedes PN 1040160980, even with the underside baffles removed. They won't budge; can't push, or pull them out, either direction. I've tried heating both w/ a heat gun - but to no avail. They're OEM & original I'm sure, like the other related gaskets I'm replacing.

Since the cover is cast aluminum, I don't want to get too aggressive with slotted screwdrivers or other steel scraping tools, but these are really FUSED in place. I can't imagine why (though it sure feels that way), they'd be sealed as the other gaskets were dry & came out after gentle persuasion. I've torn the L-shaped sections so must replace both one way or another. Any ideas?

Is there a specific thread on this subject?

 

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04 odyssey (265k) 1995 E320 wagon (295k)
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Mine was mainly passenger side leak, but also cam magnet seals we're back mess. Not sure on best way for those seals you show, but forgot to mention you will not get the green cover seal in without removing and reinstalling the guide pin. Saw some YouTube guy trying to do it with pin in place.
 

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Hello all,

Replaced a number of things on a newly imported G320; valve cover gasket, plugs, coils, wires, vacuum lines, etc. after seeing some oil intrusion into the spark plug barrel from the valve cover.

I DM'd "Der Benz Führer" above but no response as of yet. Can anyone lend insight into how to replace those grommets / Crankcase / Valve Cover Breather Seals, PN 1040160980 pictured above? I've partially destroyed one and found it metal impregnated but it does NOT want to let go of the Valve Cover. Most tedious part of the job so far and I'd hate to damage the valve cover.

Very much appreciate any help you can provide,

James
Dallas TX
 

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I just used a pick and fatally deformed them. The half moon ones in the back can be fiddly to reinstall. Expect them to need attention.
 

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I just used a pick and fatally deformed them. The half moon ones in the back can be fiddly to reinstall. Expect them to need attention.
Thank you very much for that. They were just one of those things that seemed way too much effort for what it was - so we stopped and asked.

I'm not sure if it's because of the G320 m104.996 but the half moons seemed a non issue. I had read elsewhere that they were problematic for folks. I wonder if we did something incorrectly?

Rather than assume, can I ask, what is it that happens on re-install so I can double check before firing this thing back up?

Thank you again!

James and Gabriela
 
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