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Discussion Starter #1
Well after some delays, had to order and wait on a few items to finalize the conversion, I'm down to brass tacks. I only get a couple hrs. aday to work on this project so it is taking a while to get there. I am in need of some expert advise. #1. I would desparately like to incorporate the original glow circuit into my conv. I hope someone can walk me thru this final stage. I'm posting pics of my 84 cars relay unit which I mounted inplace of the ignition module on the drv. sd. fender. I show the wire coming out of the glw. relay box and need to know where to tie into my 87 elec. sys. The large red on the right side of the pic is the main pwr. feed to the unit, the green goes to a temp sensor in the head, I don't know where or what the red w/blk wire is. Help! Also in the upper middle of the pics is the wires I believe go to the ignition sw, where and what are they for. How do I wire them into the sys.? #2. The second pic is of the IP, there are 2 shiny blk. hoses running I believe from the oil filter to a unit of some kind that has 2 what look like barb hose fittings. One is shown just above the eng. mnt. the other is to the left of the philips head screw (not below it ). Help!!!!!



 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Thanks for all the help so far, I found this dia. but I think it is in German. Can anyone interprut the items numbered in the box on the right?

 

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"A" bunch:
⌀=4 mm, red - connect to X4/10 (wire connector), clamp 30/clamp 61 (Battery)




⌀=2.5, black/blue - to 1 glow plug
⌀=2.5, black/violet - to 2 glow plug
⌀=2.5, black/red - to 3 glow plug
⌀=2.5, black/yellow - to 4 glow plug



"B" bunch:
⌀=0.75 mm, brown - to ground, front left (near headlamp)






⌀=0.75 mm, black - to central electric box/fuse box, socket "S", clamp "6" (inner connection with socket "D", clamp "3" and from it to control lamp in instrument panel)
⌀=0.75 mm, violet - to central electric box/fuse box, socket "S", clamp "12"
⌀=0.75 mm, red/black - to central electric box/fuse box, socket "S", clamp "4"
See here:



 

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Thanks for all the help so far, I found this dia. but I think it is in German. Can anyone interprut the items numbered in the box on the right?
It is russian, not german. German not contain cyrillic font. :D

This diagramm is for el. adj. mirrors (left upper), radio (right upper), central locking sys. (left bottom) and RS (pretensioner for front seat belts) system (right bottom).

1 - Battery
2 - Ignition lock
6 - fuse box
92 - el. adjustable mirror switcher
93 - right outside mirror
94 - left outside mirror
95 - connection block
96 - central locking sys. pump
97 - executive mechanism, left front door
98 - executive mechanism, trunk lid
99 - executive mechanism, right front door
100 - buzzer's switcher
101 - radio
102 - el. operated antenna
103 - RS's (pretensioner's) ECU
104 - left pretensioner
105 - right pretensioner
106 - control socet

Salutte! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I got the baby Benz up and running this am without the us of glow plugs. It has been warm enough here in OH, 90's that it kick off easily. I still have to get the GP sys. working or go to a push button, which I do not want to resort to. I took it down the road after checking things while running outside, seems to drive fine. I will have to tweak the vacuum lines as I have not proofed them all. I post some pics next week for those interested. Thanks to those who have given assitance. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm feeling a bit defeated as I'm unable after all this work to sort out a few simple issues. I need to get a temp gage up also wire my elec. fan direct to the ignition so I can have better cooling. Not having much success with doing either, can you help?
 

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95 E300, 91 300TE, 84 190D
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I could help more, but my 84 190D is being used by a family member 2 hours away from me.

The temp sender for the dash gauge is in the top rear on the head. One wire snap on connection.

The wires for the electric clutch for the main fan go to the relay box, and is somehow triggered by some signal from a temp sender also top rear of the head. I would wire it up directly as you suggest temporarily.

Side note, the aux fan is triggered low speed by the pressure/temp switch on the receiver/dryer, and high speed by a temp sensor near the thermostat on the right front side of the block. My aux fan would NEVER come on high unless the AC was on. Meaning, if using the EC setting, I never had high speed aux fan, and came close a few times to top of scale temp gauge. I almost wired leads and a switch to override the temp sensor, but never did.
 

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95 E300, 91 300TE, 84 190D
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FSM and 601 manual online

I also remind you that in the FAQ sticky above, there is a link to a link to download a pdf of the FSM.

Also, all that and the engine manuals are online thanks to MBUSA:

Untitled Document

You can read up on how the aux fan is energized, main fan energized, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have both fans operational, main fan with a jumper for now. Can someone tell me which of the engine temp sensors is the one used to send the signal to the dash temp gauge. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well things are moving ahead. I was able to sort out the temp sensor wire in the 2.2 dsl. head between the two glow plugs which is the green wire in the "A" group ( pictured above ). After a process of elimination I found the correct wire from the 190E harness. Life is good when you know your engine temp. Now I need to track down a vacuum solonoid valve to shut down the IP when I turn off the ignition, any suggestions or help will be great. Last of all I'll tackle wiring up the glow plug sys. using the dsl. setup. Thanks for the help so far, I'm nearly finished. :)



 

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Looks great! Glad everything's coming together on the project.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I looking for an in expensive vacuum switch over valve so I can wire it into my ignition sys. to shut down the engine, anyone have suggestions???:confused:
 

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Thanks, I looking for an in expensive vacuum switch over valve so I can wire it into my ignition sys. to shut down the engine, anyone have suggestions???:confused:
Why not just use the ignition switch from the old diesel car?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wish I had it, the car was wrecked and scrapped a few years ago before I had anything to do with it ! :crybaby2:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I tried using the high idle solonoid which allowed me to shut down the engine. However the vacuum did not bleed off thus keeping the IP in shut down mode. I'm still working through this, it is frustrating to no end. I could use any and all help or suggestions. I tried the pin hole trick in the line back to the shut off valve and thought I had it but not there yet. :bowdown: :crybaby2::confused:
 

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1985 190E(SOLD 04/14/11) - 1986 190E - 1986 190E 2.3-16
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I tried using the high idle solonoid which allowed me to shut down the engine. However the vacuum did not bleed off thus keeping the IP in shut down mode. I'm still working through this, it is frustrating to no end. I could use any and all help or suggestions. I tried the pin hole trick in the line back to the shut off valve and thought I had it but not there yet. :bowdown: :crybaby2::confused:
You need one common solenoid used in carburatted A/C systems to activate the vacuum accelerator in the carb. They have 3 tubes, inlet, exit and the relieve tube has a dust cap or filter. The last is the relieve valve so when switched off the vacuum device receives atmospheric pressure and relaxes. Easy to find in any 70's 80's carburatted A/C cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was able to use the fast idle switch over valve to experiment starting and shutting down the engine. I may have it figured out, does anyone have a working used fast idle sw over valve or the one just like it that is used for the control flap and the EGR? I prefer to use one of these as it has a plug that I have the mating end for.



 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Does anyone know exactly how the wires in the main fuse box connect into it from underneath (under the fuses)? Are they all part of a plug group or do small individual wires attatch (how). I can't imagine they just push into a oneway connector that you release somehow to get them out? Any help appriciated.
 
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