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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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Discussion Starter #1
I have always more tire wear on the edges, regardless using higher than recommended pressures and I blame my love for hard cornering for it.
Now this is the 2nd set of tires we are wearing out on W210 and both sets have inner sides on the rear axle wearing more than the outer sides. It is not big issue since I still got 53k miles from tires warranted for 50k, but I had the car on Hunter machine at Firestone twice in this period and would expect more.
Is anybody else having that problem? Our car is 95% of the time having single occupants, yet the tires wear looks like overloaded all the time.
 

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Sounds like spring sack. You could try thicker pads, depending on what you have back there.
 

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I agree...the geometry is slightly out. If it was out more you would not have got 53000 miles from them.

Pads is a good cheap solution since it will raise the back slightly and flatten the contact patch of the tyres to the road.
 

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2001 E320 - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 107,000+
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The last time I had a free safety inspection at the dealer, the tech pointed out more tire wear in the middle of the tires. He blamed running them at too high a pressure. But I had been lazy and was driving on the pressures that one of their techs put in them at the last rotation (~34). I have them now at 27 psi which is what is written on the fuel filler door. I am waiting to see what that does.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So you guys think the suspension gave over the years and now the car sits too low spreading the wheels up?
At >230k it might be understandable, although a bit unexpectable on MB.
Front tires show some more wear on the inner edges as well, although not so drastic.
Rear tire shows over 3 mm difference, showing pretty good thread outside, while almost bold on the inside.
Shouldn't Hunter machine catch something like that?
I always pump the tires above 30 psi, 32-34 in the rear and the taper looks even across the tire.
Time to dive under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found that on Russian site.
# 8 shim
A 210 325 01 84 for 5 mm
A 210 325 02 84 for 9
A 210 325 03 84 for 13
A 210 325 04 84 for 17
Looks like that makes pretty big job to change them.
 

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2000 E320
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Katjek, I have the same issue on the rear tires as you do. So bad, I didn't notice how far it has worn, that I blew out a rear tire on the freeway. Yes, the rear of my car sits lower than the front. I always pump the tires 34 psi, front & rear. I tried to find some solution in this forum and at MBWorld. Some are say lower control arm bushing or bent suspension arms. I just haven't had a chance to check these items. My car car is stock, so I don't think I need an adjustable camber bolts. Will a thicker spring pad mitigate it? How thick? Let us know if you have solve this issue. Thanks.
 

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My comment about the springs assumes proper alignment specs. When they sack, their rate is no longer appropriate, so for any given load, the geometry will be off.

If you are just noticing the wear, typically the first thing to do would be a comprehensive inspection to be sure there are no worn-out parts and that the alignment is correct. If so, the springs are it. Thicker pads will forestall their replacement.

(This is why I rotate my tires regularly...you find things like this sooner, and it mitigates the wear pattern. Finding an issue like this through a blowout should never happen; even if you are running staggered tires with directional tread and can't rotate, you should at least inspect.)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Rotating the tires is just hiding the problem and with all 4 tires wearing at inner side would not solve the issue.
I am planning to put thicker shims on the car, but it is not urgent issue for me, so it will go for winter plans (slow time in my job).
Other issue is that the Firestone I am presently replacing are uni-sided >>> they have "inner and outer" sides so I wonder how much that participated in uneven wear. Over the years I bough cars with few Good Year tires and all of those wear out edges for me to the degree where I had good thread on the center and wire showing up on the edges. Just nature of the beast. Now having 2 the same car models to compare I can do more research.
And just to highlight my point >>>> complaining that I made only 53,000 miles on 50k rated tires IS splitting the hair ;)
 

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Most Mercedes vehicles have a 'Sport' oriented wheel alignment with negative camber, which in term causes excessive inside tire wear especially on rear wheels. So check your wheel alignment, a shop familiar with MB should be able to tell if your suspension started to 'sag' or not making matters worse. You can also ask them to bring camber closer to 0 if you don't race your car. You will loose a bit of handling but if you never push it, it's not something to be concerned with.

So yes it is normal for the rear tires to wear out faster on the inside on MBs, however if you feel that your wear is excessive, you'll most likely need an alignment and maybe some parts.

As for the spring pads it's a quick and easy job if you have access to MB style spring compressor(~15min each), and the parts are not expensive, I changed mine after changing front coil springs to level the car a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I went under 2 of our W210 to compare and it gets a bit more complicated. Both cars stay at the same level about 27' from the ground to the rear fender rim.
The pads are mounted inside cup-shaped frame so I can not see their thickness, but the car in question is definitely having thicker pad than the other one. Looks to me that is the max pad as I see it close to the end of the cup, so thicker pad would push the spring outside the cup, what I don't think is allowed.
In such situation I am afraid my springs sag so badly that I would have to replace springs to lift the car to desired level. Looks like PO had really heavy MIL. ;)
What CKonstantin says is really encouraging me to live with it :D
 

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2001 SLK 320(217K Miles), 2002 E320 Special Edition(183K Miles)
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Or just have the tires on the right changed over the the rims on the left and vica versa at about half the expected lifespan of the tires. This puts the side that was on the inside on the outside while maintaining rotational direction.
I have to do this on my SLK since they standardly have negative camber and staggered rims preclude even swapping front to rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Turning the tires over -again is just covering up the situation
Still impossible with unisided tires.
I cut removed tire across and beside tapered wear out, the inner side show rounded edge, while the outside is pretty square.
Negative camber doesn't explain that to me?
I think I will wait for dealer coupon and spend money for another alignment with new tires.
Anybody having a coupon, let me know?
BTW I put new tires with 50g of plastic balls inside for balancing -so far so good and no dirt catching weights on the rims.
 

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Turning the tires over -again is just covering up the situation
Still impossible with unisided tires.
No, it's not. Think carefully about it. Move right tire to left rim, maintaining rotational direction. What was on the inside of the car is now the outside. May be difficult to picture, but believe me it's true. ;):D:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No, it's not. Think carefully about it. Move right tire to left rim, maintaining rotational direction. What was on the inside of the car is now the outside. May be difficult to picture, but believe me it's true. ;):D:thumbsup:
You don't get it? You should not put side marked "outside" on the inner side nor backwards.
I just pulled spare wheel out of the trunk. This is the wheel that I wear out on the wagon all the way down to the wear marks. It is absolutely evenly wear out.
I guess self leveling system on wagon makes the difference ;)
 

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You don't get it? You should not put side marked "outside" on the inner side nor backwards.
You should buy newer tires. ;)
Mine (Michellins) just have an arrow and the words 'rotational direction' on BOTH sides of the tire. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My new Michelins don't have any rotational marks at all. That is why I wonder if the uniside on Firehawk could participate in uneven wear.
Oh, well, with 60k on new Michelins I have about 6 years to recheck it.
 

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http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1599624-rear-spring-weak-caused-camber-off.html

I'd think it's a common problem for face lift W210. My 1999 E320 does not have this problem.

The first question is "is it caused by a sacking coil spring?" It would be bad if the problem still exists after the rear coil spring replaced.

Searched autohausaz, rmeuropean and bmaparts, did not see rear coil spring, found this (and some other listings) on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OE-Spec-Mercedes-E-Class-W210-E220-E270-E320-CDI-99-02-Coil-Spring-REAR-/320900496361?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab728fbe9&vxp=mtr#ht_939wt_858

Any suggestions on the source/brand for good, reliable coil springs?

Maybe the easiest work around is to rotate tires every 5000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What is it that everybody thinks rotating the tires will fix the problems with suspension geometry?
And again, if all 4 tires wear out more on inner side, what rotating the wheels will give you?
I wonder cerritos why in your case dealer said nothing about putting bigger pads?
 
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