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Discussion Starter #1
So, a while back I bolted up one of the 19(?)MM heavier sway bars which wafts over this site from time to time. Yay me!

The good...NICE and flat as you turn into a corner, particularly when at some speed. Say an aggressive pace into an off-ramp on the freeway. I love it. My somewhat timid yet shapely special lady friend hates it, but what do I care about THAT! I always give her fair warning when I morph into Emmo.

The sorta bad...the bushing clamps are a bit difficult to work with. By the time you start to get the bolts snug, the bend in the metal interferes with the bite of a box wrench or socket and you're left using the open end of the wrench and making tiny progress, flip, tiny progress, flip. Not the end of the world unless you're in a hurry or don't own any open-end wrenches or SPANNERS as I have learned to call them. I think I watch too much TV. But, I digress.

The REAL bad...is that my rear end now bounces. I think that today's youth refer to it as twerking. Suffice it to say that this is a skill possessed by certain females with their....oh you get the idea. It feels like my old Lincoln Continental did when the rear air-bag suspension failed. All springs, all the time if you know what I mean. The driver has become the bobblehead! It really sucks.

So...I have yet to crawl back under the old gal and see what's wrong. Is it possible that I didn't ground a large enough flat spot on the bar to bolt the little arm up to? I suppose.

Is it possible that I neglected to even 1) Bolt the little actuator arm on tight enough, or 2) Hook the actuator end back up to the gizmo or 3) the dreaded "other"?

I was slurping a PBR or three that day as it was powerful hot in my garage, so operator/installer error is HIGH on the list of possibilities. But what about number 3? Other??

I figure that it's unlikely that something else failed ie, a ram or ram(s) since it was two months ago that I did the work.

If you were familiar with this job, modification, etc and you were a whole lot smarter than me (which I suspect is pretty much every one of you) and you had some interesting or humorous info to offer, please proceed. Even ridicule is welcome at this point. I just need a decent plan of attack so that when I flop my weary and ancient back on that cheap Harbor Freight creeper I am doing it with some degree of certainty that I will actually affect/effect a fix to this dreaded anomaly. I want my damn smooth ride back!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, that would be GREAT, because I was planning on replacing them anyway. Pretty sure they are the originals. Car now 29 yrs and 114 miles old, so they were bound to shat soon. Just struck me as odd that they crapped out coincident with this repair. But, the car was up on the lift, then on jacks, etc and getting bounced around in the shop. Might have been the straw on the camel so to speak.

And, they look pretty easy to replace.
 

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Might I suggest since you are changing out the accumulators, change the hoses too if original. Flushing the old fluid with new anyway so buy enough to change the color ~3 bottles. You are transferring the fitting from the old sphere to the new, don't strip them. I had to use a vise to hold them in order to get the fittings out without rounding corners. Should you replace copper crush washers in the process, I find a light swab of the green bearing grease helps the seal process (especially for fuel related items), never failed me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally got around to the repair today. Ordered parts from FCP.

For once I used my thick head and got under there with an aerosol can of AEROKROIL and shot all the nuts and fittings. I was quite chapped to find out that my flare nut wrenches wouldn't fit over the widest part of the line. I was quite relieved when I was able to loosen the nuts using open ends! Rounding those mofo's would have really set me back.

I did not replace the rubber lines. It appears as though you need to pull the rear seatback to access the top of them (??) and I am too old, fat and lazy for that. In my younger days, sure.

So here's where things went sour -

When I removed the two hydraulic lines from the old accumulators they, of course, hacked up a bunch of old fluid. Two things: One, the fluid was quite dirty. This chapped my ass a bit since I just flushed out the old fluid not too long ago. Perhaps the deteriorating bladder in the old accumulators dicked up the juice?
And, number two, the old hyd fluid was foaming like MAD, as in almost white. I was worried that it was air in the system that was making my car bounce like some fat, twerking floosie's posterior.

Nope. Car is wonderful once again.
 

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Pulling the rear seats in an SEC is very simple, five minutes and all four pieces should be out. Two red clips for each of the bottoms, then lift up on the top sections and they're out. Now you can get to the hydraulic ram 17mm fitting. FYI, my normal flare wrenches fit the 11 or 12mm fittings. The bit 17mm fittings are good with a standard open end.

When these systems depressurize, the oil goes all foamy. Yours sounds normal. Flush all you want, that doesn't get the old stuff sitting in the accumulators and in the hydraulic rams. Flush, drive a bit, do it again. I use O'Reilly AWG-32 hydraulic fluid in my SEC and SEL. About $20 per gallon. Works just fine and 1/4 the price of MB fluid.
 

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Finally got around to the repair today. Ordered parts from FCP.

For once I used my thick head and got under there with an aerosol can of AEROKROIL and shot all the nuts and fittings. I was quite chapped to find out that my flare nut wrenches wouldn't fit over the widest part of the line. I was quite relieved when I was able to loosen the nuts using open ends! Rounding those mofo's would have really set me back.

I did not replace the rubber lines. It appears as though you need to pull the rear seatback to access the top of them (??) and I am too old, fat and lazy for that. In my younger days, sure.

So here's where things went sour -

When I removed the two hydraulic lines from the old accumulators they, of course, hacked up a bunch of old fluid. Two things: One, the fluid was quite dirty. This chapped my ass a bit since I just flushed out the old fluid not too long ago. Perhaps the deteriorating bladder in the old accumulators dicked up the juice?
And, number two, the old hyd fluid was foaming like MAD, as in almost white. I was worried that it was air in the system that was making my car bounce like some fat, twerking floosie's posterior.

Nope. Car is wonderful once again.
In regards to the flare nut wrenches I've sometimes had success by grinding the opening just enough to fit over the offending pipe. In the case where I've been worried about it slipping I've roughend the outside edges of the wrench a bit and clamped on a pair of vise grip pliers, saved me a number of times.
 
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