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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I am new to this forum and would appreciate some advice on the U1300L. It is a ex German army truck and I would like to know if there are any weak points (axles gearbox rot electrics etc) that I should be looking at while I am looking at it. Also is there anyone in England nearish to Leicester who would let me look at theirs before I buy. This is my first post please be gentle:bowdown:

Thanks in advance and happy new year to all
Cheers Rob
 

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Unimog U900
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Hi Rob.

Is it the U1300L at Atkinson Vos you are interested in?

If so then be prepared to do a fair bit of work on it. From the photos it looks as if the cab is in quite a bad way. Replacements panels are available from Mercedes but they are a lot of work to replace.

I'm up in Scotland so a bit far away to show you in person. Basically I'd say if you want a project vehicle for recreational use and are happy to spend money/time fixing it then it will be ideal. If you want a vehicle for work or are not mechanically minded then save your money for something tidier.

Cheers,

Gordon
 

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1980 U1000 Turbo...
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1,522 Posts
Check the cab for rot.
Check all fluids.
Check for any leaks.
Check the steering for any excessive play.
Get all 4 wheels off the ground and check for play in the portals(brake off) and check the operation of the 4wd and difflocks.
I personally would rather have a mechanically sound Mog and a bit of corrosion to deal with than the other way around.Some mechanical parts will make your eyes water in regards to price.
Try and go in at the top of your budget,as there is rarely such a thing as a cheap Mog.
Can I be rude and ask what your approx budget is?
 

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Unimog 416 camper (in build)
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I second the theory of spending more rather than a cheap project that will cost double. Being good in the mechanicle side is more important than body work, you can always have the cab rebuilt or replaced for much less than an engine swap.

Also check the website aggriaffairs to get an idea of what condition and prices are for mogs in the rest of europe.

sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info people more questions
would i be mad to buy one with poor oily bits?
not the one at atkinson vos but the one i am looking at is in the same condition (rust in the cab but good oily bitd)
i would like to buy one that needs work so when i have finnished it i know all is ok with brakes seals air lines etc and a good service other than get a done one and be thinking is that brake pipe ok is this ok or is that ok (quality of other peoples work)
so buy one i can finnish to my own standard not redoing other persons work.
so good oily bits are a must?
does this make sense?
Thanks Rob
 

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Unimog 416 camper (in build)
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just keep in mind mogs are a lot more complex than a landrover and genuine MB parts cost a bit even the workshop manual is 150 pounds. What ever mog you buy there will be plenty of work to do.

let us know when you get your project, this forum is great for tech advice and ideas of how things should be and how to fix them.

sam
 

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Unimog U1250
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so good oily bits are a must?
does this make sense?
Thanks Rob
Yup that's a good guide in my opinion. Welding the cab back together if it's rusty is pretty cheap if you don't count the hours, but fixing or changing the gearbox or diffs is not.

Also, don't forget the greasy parts. :D Someone had forgot to grease the kingpins on my U1250 and changing took some effort.
 

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Unimog U1250
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HI Rob, I'm in the same mindset as you - I'm re-building my U1250 - cab was a bit rusty, but that's all fixed now. Mechanically my Mog was sound - but I'm replacing all the brake lines, seals, anyway etc. I'm also re-building the the portals - new super fast gears, bearings and seals and have a Claas overdrive fitted. All the import bit - engine, transmission and diffs are in good order - basically everything else is getting re-built. I'd be wary of anything will rust in the main structural members of the cab, but then again, I saw on the forum brand new cabs for same at a reasonable price.

In the end I will spend a less than a decent camper Mog goes for over here in Australia - there are not many around and the prices here are very high in comparison to what you guys get in Europe and America due to our importation rules. I will also know that everything that is important have been replaced, and I'll also have gearing that suits the long distance travel I'm planning on doing.

Don't underestimate the time it will take to do things - every time I think I'm putting things together, I find something else to replace "just in case" and end up taking things apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the info.
Is there a buying guide on this forum?
I have never driven a unimog so any red flags i should be looking for?
If I do buy i will put some pictures on here and ask lots of questions
Cheers Rob
 

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1990 Unimog 1300L, 2004 ML350, 1999 SLK 230,
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580 Posts
Thanks for all the info.
Is there a buying guide on this forum?
I have never driven a unimog so any red flags i should be looking for?
If I do buy i will put some pictures on here and ask lots of questions
Cheers Rob
Here is one. There are others out there as well.

Buyer's guide

Gary
 

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Unimog 416 camper (in build)
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315 Posts
Take a day trip

If you are seriouse about a mog why dont you take a day trip to bentham to atkinson vos check out the one they have and ask simon to estimate what it would cost to repair to roadworthy state. Take a test drive then test drive a better u 1300, I think they have a few, just to compare. Then take a short drive over the hill to AC Price and talk with them maybe test drive one of their mogs and pick there brains.
Head home and check out the other mog again and compare, 50 quid in petrol could save you a lot of heartache and give you some valuable knowledge.

Remember also most mogs are registered aggri so dont need an MOT to be taxed, so can be very far from safe !!!

sam
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all your help. I have just got home after looking at my first Unimog. I was told it had not been started for 4 days but i started very well (i did check it was cold first). It drove alright (only round a field) no play in the steering no clunks when changing gear clean oil and water no leeks. BUT the cab was very rusty all round windscreen doors wings floor wheel arches even a bit on the roof. Now i do not mind a bit of bodywork but it would take a long time for me to sort out.
What if any repair panels are available?.
I will go and have a look at the one at atkinson vos this week.
Cheers Rob
 

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Unimog U900
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Either all or almost all the parts for the square cab are available. If you know which panels need replacing (usually flooring and front wings I find) then post back and I will look up the part numbers on the EPC. With the part numbers you can get prices from MB dealers, many truck factors or from Mercedes-Benz Parts, Inchcape .

Can you do the welding yourself? If not then it will likely be very cost to sort out.

Cheers,

Gordon
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello all thanks for all your answers and advice. I am going to Atkinson Vos this week to look at what they have got. I have been offered some new XZL tyres they are 385/85R20 they look a bit to big to me
would they fit?
how much would they alter the gearing?
or would i be better of with an overdrive?
Cheers Rob
 

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Unimog U1300L Year unknown, but it has a Bundesheer rebuild plate dated 96
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554 Posts
Hi 6 Pot, I bought a 1300L a couple of months ago. (It is a bit big for a normal house/drive, but Mine fits (just) A Unimog was a normal progression from Landrover Madness, to Pinzgauer Madness, now I,m looking to sell the Pinzgauer to buy another Unimog. There is a reason for my madness, I,ve just bought a smallholding in Poland (wife is Polish) and Poland has many hundreds if not thousands of Lanes and tracks which unlike ours are not closed in by Hedges and a Mog can negotiate them easily. I found the Workshop manuals that came with mine, an invaluable aid to understanding my Unimog. I dont think anything is much more complex than on a Landrover, It is just MUCH HEAVIER, meaning all new Trolley jacks and Tall Axle stands. While I,m here you are welcome to come over (Swindon Wiltshire and compare notes. But as soon as the house is SOLD we are off to a free-er cheaper place to live. (Council Tax here 2 bed semi with £1350 per year....Council Tax on Smallholding - 7 Acres, 2 Houses and a Barn (Big enough for My Mog, Pinz and an MG Midget) £40 per year.....but I get the first 5 years free because I,m new to the area!!!!!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi all just got back from Atkinson Vos after having a look at there cheep and cheerful UNIMOG 1300L. Not a good start to UNIMOG ownership it would not run well because the fuel filter was full of rust and after they got it going a bit the brakes were stuck on. They will sort it out and i will go back on Friday and buy it all being well. Bit of rust in the cab but not to bad. Does anyone know how much a new wing would be?
Thanks again Rob
 

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Sold .....1987 U1250 Unimog
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Hi all just got back from Atkinson Vos after having a look at there cheep and cheerful UNIMOG 1300L. Not a good start to UNIMOG ownership it would not run well because the fuel filter was full of rust and after they got it going a bit the brakes were stuck on. They will sort it out and i will go back on Friday and buy it all being well. Bit of rust in the cab but not to bad. Does anyone know how much a new wing would be?
Thanks again Rob
IF you haven't signed or dropped the $$ down yet... I think I would wait.... Did you take any photos? if so let us see em. We you start saying the words rust and in the fuel system together I personally get nervous... only because I have had the same issue with my Unimog....
Lift pump died a few months after owning it. about 300 US + a lot of grief
Lots of the air system parts have rust and are leaking. there not cheap
sticky brakes could be good or bad... but again if there rust in the fuel I bet there is rust in the brake lines...

What the history on this truck, becaue by the sounds of it, it sat for many years AKA diesel is a good at keeping rust away, but if you have a lot of rust in the fuel system it could be the tank, lines, lift pump ETC... To be honest im surprised Vos would even have a truck for sale with such an issue that they could have fixed B4 a customer saw it ... maybe they did and now its trouble again... again I would want to know the history.. did it sit, used all the time, maintainance records? ETC?
 

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Unimog U900
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Does anyone know how much a new wing would be?
I was wondering about this too so I fired up the EPC and hunted for square cab front wings.

The EPC is slightly confusing but it looks as if the outer wing is part number a425 627 05 01 which should be in the region of £100 PANELLING - - Mercedes-Benz Parts, Inchcape

From the diagram on the EPC, it looks to be the driver's side wing. I cant see the passenger side wing listed, but if you had a chassis number I could probably get it.

Cheers,

Gordon
 
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