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Unimog 1300L 1984
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149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My wife came up with a good question yesterday..."Why don't you make the fixed glass in the doors quarter vents, to direct plenty of fresh air into the cab?"

Probably sounds simpler than it really is, but it would be a terrific modification for our Queensland Summers...which last about half the year!

Has anyone ever done this? Any ideas about the best way to do it?
 

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U1450L DOKA
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9,589 Posts
Well, it crossed my mind as well. When you look at the door by itself, it looks quite do-able.
When you close the door and sit behind the wheel, you'll notice that if it was a vent window, it
Would swing into the end of the dash structure, and you would not get much out of it....in the one direction, anyway. I have to go sit and take a look....
Might still work, but a lot of fiddling for a little swing, in my opinion.

Goofing around, I took a new , broad, flat scoop tip from a shop vac and fixed it up into the
Gap of the roof hatch, thinking that it would grab fresh air and direct it into the cab....
But, no.
It is a dead Zone, and the scoop had to be all the way to the leading edge of the roof, and it
Was just more than I wanted to mess with....you could make a purpose built scoop that would
Do it. If you look at the roof top A/C units, you will often see a scoop/lip that harvests air
Off of the top of the windshield to feed the condenser. Something like that could be made to
Feed the roof hatch....want air ? Open the leading edge of the hatch. A little air, the trailing edge...

Then, I started to eyeball the mirror brackets....maybe a little scoop at the top ,with a right angle path that would redirect the air into the top of a cracked open front window....not too large- flat/oval profile would blend in....I tried it with plumbing elbows just to see if it
Would work....it showed promise, but other lists are more important....and I didn't want
To be tooling around with plumbing hose-clamped to the mirror brackets....

I also pondered the front " Safari Window" , as seen on VW split window busses. You could either keep your original windshield glass and build a frame that projects it ahead of the
Current opening, so the tilting frame could step back to fit into the original opening....which
Would be a little clunky maybe, or you could get a cut-down Windshield, so that the new
Tilting frame fits the existing opening, with the smaller windshield on pretty much the same
Plane as the original, fixed windshield.....
Schmidt makes a cool, bolt-on snowplow windscreen that fits over the original opening, and
Puts a new windshield further forward, angled down to kill the Glare, or that is the purpose
I have heard .This sort of bolt-on idea could Work for a Safari Windshield retrofit....
Simple locking brackets would adjust the tilt from a crack to full horizontal, as on the VW.
Certainly do-able. Worth it ? Depends on the rest of the prioritized list I think.

I liked driving either the Bus with that feature, as well as the old PW Power wagon, which had
A crank in the middle of the dash to open the windshield .
The cool factor would be great, the function would be fine, it would not be that hard to
Build....but I have other fish to fry, myself.

Another Safari Consideration would be getting the glass to seal up when closed, and withstand washboard roads and all of that. The VW windows are dinky, and have a latch/
Bracket on each side. The old Dodge adjusted and clamped from the center, and even though
The Dodge windshield is much smaller than the one on the Unimog, on a rough road in
A drenching Oregon Rain, dribbles of water would sometimes be rolling down the dash at the corners. Of course, the seals on the Were 18 years old at the time.....
 

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They would have to be really big or they would not catch any air just like the trouble Trucktor had with the top vent. Also on 406s the wing vents do basically nothing. The air hits the windscreen and goes way out around the body. Maybe if they were hinged at the back side and swung out at the front to open, with a old style latch like rear windows on old BMWs to hold position and lock closed. That could work if the opened far enough.

What I have done on long hot trips is fashion a funnel intake out of PVC and bungee corded it into the corner of the window while fully open and direct the air down to your feet. This works pretty well with SBUs and 406s. That way you can stick the big end (4" to 2" reducer) directly into the air flow. If you hook it up right using the mirror brackets you can open and close the door w/o removing it. On 406s you use the opened wing window.

I keep meaning to fab some intake scoops that go over the air intakes to force cool air in. I think that could work too. Also a roof scoop that starts at the front to the roof vent is in the plan.
 

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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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13,263 Posts
You have to be careful with scoops. My truck has the square multi adjustable (is there an actual name for it? 5way pop hatch?) but even more importantly,my neighbor has bee's, and even at 100km/h, the pop hatch, if scooped forward, or rearward (they hit the Firebox, and bounce forward), will survive the impact, and once un-stunned, are quite pissed off. :surrender:

What about a swamp cooler in the roof hatch?
 

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While we are on the topic of ventilation. I have a sliding rear window to install in a 406 and was wondering if it would be better to install it with the opening on the passenger or the drivers side? I'm thinking the drivers side might be too close to your head. But maybe not. Or maybe that would be better.

Also if anyone needs SBU rear window seals I have some for sale over on the sale board. So far no takers.
 

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Old Power Wagons were great for ventilation like Trucktor said. With the cowl vent open, the windshield open and the wing vents open even if you are only going a few miles an hour you are bathed in lots of wind. Cowl vents work great on their own. Maybe that would be an alternative if there is room. It sure is wide enough.
 

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Sold .....1987 U1250 Unimog
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Is it the flat window that causes this dead zone? I have noticed for years this seemingly strange thing while driving a SBU/MBU Unimog.
 

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ex-moglet u1700 (ex U1300L)
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472 Posts
Since our camper is an overcab, and having a bigger footprint than the cab itself, the overhang does a good job of keeping the cab in shade and cooler, and rain out with the window open. If I didn't have a camper I think I'd have a roof rack of a similar size to perform the same in this respect.

My wife has also used a 3" length of duct strapped to the top of the mirror arm to vent her footwell and was pleased with the results :)

Our cab "sunroof" is of course under the camper, so is pretty much always open, nose down. We have a piece of cut to size mossie net with velcro sewn around the edge, and self adhesive velcro stuck to the cab ceiling to keep bugs out. This stayed up in all temperatures for about a year of daily use, but the self adhesive bit may not last as long if you needed to unstick it to adjust the hatch several times a day. (Also, although the Seitz camper windows have roller blinds of mossie net, we found wasps just walk around the edges, and midges walk straight through, so we have no-see-um net for all windows too. You need self adhesive velcro for the window frame, but normal velcro to sew onto the net or the sewing machine gums up, so 2 velcro types, bought seperately on Fleabay)

I also stuck a curtain rail to the ceiling with some gunk for stair nose fixing, and we have left and right curtains of black-out material. For security when parked, but mostly keeping the sun out when driving, these have proved fab. They need to be long enough so they don't flap with the window open, so about a foot from the cab floor. Just blanking off about 6" of window can keep most of the sun from your body and makes a big difference, leaving the mirror clear. If its really windy then they park inside the seat belt (when worn) and can't go anywhere. The curtain is actually attached with little crocodile clips, so one good pull and its off it it does get in the way.

All kinda O/T!

Jason

:)
 

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1981 u1300L, 1998 s280
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Since our camper is an overcab, and having a bigger footprint than the cab itself, the overhang does a good job of keeping the cab in shade and cooler, and rain out with the window open. If I didn't have a camper I think I'd have a roof rack of a similar size to perform the same in this respect.

My wife has also used a 3" length of duct strapped to the top of the mirror arm to vent her footwell and was pleased with the results :)

Our cab "sunroof" is of course under the camper, so is pretty much always open, nose down. We have a piece of cut to size mossie net with velcro sewn around the edge, and self adhesive velcro stuck to the cab ceiling to keep bugs out. This stayed up in all temperatures for about a year of daily use, but the self adhesive bit may not last as long if you needed to unstick it to adjust the hatch several times a day. (Also, although the Seitz camper windows have roller blinds of mossie net, we found wasps just walk around the edges, and midges walk straight through, so we have no-see-um net for all windows too. You need self adhesive velcro for the window frame, but normal velcro to sew onto the net or the sewing machine gums up, so 2 velcro types, bought seperately on Fleabay)

I also stuck a curtain rail to the ceiling with some gunk for stair nose fixing, and we have left and right curtains of black-out material. For security when parked, but mostly keeping the sun out when driving, these have proved fab. They need to be long enough so they don't flap with the window open, so about a foot from the cab floor. Just blanking off about 6" of window can keep most of the sun from your body and makes a big difference, leaving the mirror clear. If its really windy then they park inside the seat belt (when worn) and can't go anywhere. The curtain is actually attached with little crocodile clips, so one good pull and its off it it does get in the way.

All kinda O/T!

Jason

:)
Going totally OT, What are your thoughts on going over the cab with a camper and needing to tilt the cab for any reasons?
 

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ex-moglet u1700 (ex U1300L)
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472 Posts
Since the camper box is wider than the cab, the floor and front wall of the camper's double bed unbolt and lift out, so the cab can then rotate normally through the gap left.

I hope that makes sense?

Jason

:)
 

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U1450L DOKA
Joined
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9,589 Posts
Venting the square cab

Well, it crossed my mind as well. When you look at the door by itself, it looks quite do-able.
When you close the door and sit behind the wheel, you'll notice that if it was a vent window, it
Would swing into the end of the dash structure, and you would not get much out of it....in the one direction, anyway. I have to go sit and take a look....
Might still work, but a lot of fiddling for a little swing, in my opinion.

Goofing around, I took a new , broad, flat scoop tip from a shop vac and fixed it up into the
Gap of the roof hatch, thinking that it would grab fresh air and direct it into the cab....
But, no.
It is a dead Zone, and the scoop had to be all the way to the leading edge of the roof, and it
Was just more than I wanted to mess with....you could make a purpose built scoop that would
Do it. If you look at the roof top A/C units, you will often see a scoop/lip that harvests air
Off of the top of the windshield to feed the condenser. Something like that could be made to
Feed the roof hatch....want air ? Open the leading edge of the hatch. A little air, the trailing edge...

Then, I started to eyeball the mirror brackets....maybe a little scoop at the top ,with a right angle path that would redirect the air into the top of a cracked open front window....not too large- flat/oval profile would blend in....I tried it with plumbing elbows just to see if it
Would work....it showed promise, but other lists are more important....and I didn't want
To be tooling around with plumbing hose-clamped to the mirror brackets....

I also pondered the front " Safari Window" , as seen on VW split window busses. You could either keep your original windshield glass and build a frame that projects it ahead of the
Current opening, so the tilting frame could step back to fit into the original opening....which
Would be a little clunky maybe, or you could get a cut-down Windshield, so that the new
Tilting frame fits the existing opening, with the smaller windshield on pretty much the same
Plane as the original, fixed windshield.....
Schmidt makes a cool, bolt-on snowplow windscreen that fits over the original opening, and
Puts a new windshield further forward, angled down to kill the Glare, or that is the purpose
I have heard .This sort of bolt-on idea could Work for a Safari Windshield retrofit....
Simple locking brackets would adjust the tilt from a crack to full horizontal, as on the VW.
Certainly do-able. Worth it ? Depends on the rest of the prioritized list I think.

I liked driving either the Bus with that feature, as well as the old PW Power wagon, which had
A crank in the middle of the dash to open the windshield .
The cool factor would be great, the function would be fine, it would not be that hard to
Build....but I have other fish to fry, myself.

Another Safari Consideration would be getting the glass to seal up when closed, and withstand washboard roads and all of that. The VW windows are dinky, and have a latch/
Bracket on each side. The old Dodge adjusted and clamped from the center, and even though
The Dodge windshield is much smaller than the one on the Unimog, on a rough road in
A drenching Oregon Rain, dribbles of water would sometimes be rolling down the dash at the corners. Of course, the seals on it Were 18 years old at the time, so there were not in the best of shape......
I'm adding some characters in obedience of the posting robot, and for not other reason.
 
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