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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Well, while I have a different car, 99 SL, I would say that is anyone believes a car that old does not have rubber driveline parts degraded is not realistic. My car also came from So Cal and was low mileage. But and it was me, that I found after starting on one type of project it usually amounted to work creep in that when you really inspect driceline parts you are faced with the decision of "well while I have this apart I might as well replace that too". Often I would go to do something like put new springs in only to see the lca bushings rotted. As such I could not leave things alone. I would also say most people do not repair things until they have a failure. I am not like that and its our choice but I would also say that without these fixes our cars do not run or handle as they should. For instance when replacing the rear shocks I checked the rear lca bushings. Guess what they were dry rotted. Did they function yes, but were they right, no. So I like you have all new lca bushings, struts, mounts etc. Leaks are the same. Some people can live with some drips from the power steering pump, I prefer not to. So I applaud your work and really I am sure you feel some reward for all the effort. Now when someone tells me what a nice car I have I simply smile and think to myself you have no idea of what this took to do and my guess you will enjoy the driving of it even more. I still have a few things to go but it will be that always, these things become part of us. When I drive this it talks to me yours will too. I also want to thank you for taking the time for the very detailed write up. Very nice and appreciated.
Thank you for the kind words. Made my day.

Steve

PS I do feel I've accomplished something -- learned a lot, probably helped/inspired others -- though I must admit, I am still recuperating from spending this much time under the car....
 

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Steve,

I'll add that you have also inspired me. As well as helped me immensely on my technical travails with my S600. Esp since they are so close in years and build.

Get's a bit solitary in this part of the world being a Benz enthusiast when my friends all rally Subaru's and are into Land Rovers. This forum has been a great support for me in undertaking what has become a rather immense restoration. I had no idea what I was getting myself into when I found this car while bushwacking in a war zone.

I'm currently finishing up a resto of my Porsche 928 back stateside. I had just finished a resto of my stateside Jag XJS V12 convertible as well when I wrapped into the retaining wall on the Wash Capitol Beltway last july after a tire blowout. So that fun starts all over with that one. At least in the states I've got real live support amongst the Maryland gang.

Out here, this forum is my major support/therapy group!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 · (Edited)
Windshield wipers

It was bitter cold this weekend, I had some things under the car to finish, but they mist wait for another day.

Since I had planned on getting some work done, I decided to take off the windshield wiper mechanism for inspection/cleaning.
Plenty of info in the archives on the plastic gear being stripped due to dirt and lack of lubrication.

Well, my gears/shafts/bushings were perfect, as they should be for a low-miler that lived in rain-free So-Cal.
OFF COURSE, as expected , I did find the grease inside the mechanism to be anything but a lubricant after 25 years -- it was completely hardened. Small amounts of dirt were found too.

Cleaned, lubed with silicon grease and reinstalled.

This probably should be added to the maint. list of every w140. I understand many w123/124/126 owners are experiencing problems with the "extender" and are finding the hard way that 2-3 hours could have prevented this from happening.

Best regards,
Steve
 

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Hey Steve...dropping in today. Nice to see the projects are coming along!

Good idea to service/lubricate the wiper mechanism. How many people don't even consider that as preventive maintenance...
That dried grease gives me nightmares; been through it a few times in other areas of the car as well.

What did you think about the removal of the assembly from the car? Haven't gone that stretch yet.

On a side note...I have a tandem pump for rebuild...have any interest for me??? I figured I'd hit you up since you just did yours!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
What did you think about the removal of the assembly from the car? Haven't gone that stretch yet.

On a side note...I have a tandem pump for rebuild...have any interest for me??? I figured I'd hit you up since you just did yours!

Chris
Hi Chris:
Glad you're back. Did you figure out the coolant leak situation?

To your questions:
1. Removing the wipers is not difficult. Remove the arms first, lift up the hood vertically, remove the plastic trim (several easy screws), disconnect the motor and you're almost done. The whole mechanism will have to be wiggled a bit to be extracted, but no big deal.

2. The tandem pump reseal will not be difficult if your shaft/bore are not damaged. It is just cleaning and installing the seal/o-rings. I can do it for you, if that's what you are asking, but I have no doubt that you can do too.

Best regards,
Steve
 

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Thanks Steve...The wiper actually sounds super easy. I can picture exactly how you describe it. I will tackle that once I get some other things squared away.
I am still sort of waiting for the weather too get better to get the car out of the garage. For pulling the intake and getting around the car, it will just be easier. For some reason I want to focus in on those O-rings and see how that goes....I have a slight feeling that is the issue. Of course, I am going to want to check everything in greater detail first. There has been zero coolant drips on the floor so far this winter. I want to start the engine and see if that starts up the leak again. I poked around with the bore scope and even that was hard to do, just can't get a good angle on anything. I thought it would make things easier but no.
I have been working on an ADS issue, that is coming along at least.

I actually bought another engine, no reason in particular...learn on, mess around with...PRACTICE with leaks and so on. At least I have an extra I guess.

I would not mind doing the tandem pump but I get a little annoyed with jobs like that these days...I figure if there is a possibility out there of good service for certain parts, I am interested. Maybe I am just trying to make things easier for me...? Seriously though, if you have any interest in the job I can email you and talk off line.

And on another side note...even though I have been screwing around with this stuff a tad longer than you; you have made things more interesting and informative on here. So, to add to the other feedback - you got my interest going too. It's really the technical information and posts I enjoy. The wheel and stick on emblem threads can be avoided at all costs!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Another cold weekend...

...and few other small jobs cleared in preparation for putting the beast back on the road.

1. Flushed the brake fluid (2nd time). Finally, I think, all the fluid in the system is 'new'
2. Lubricated the rear window regulator mechanism. I had noticed that the rear window sometimes gets stuck and has difficult time closing completely and hope this will do it. If it doesn't, I will have to look at the electrics more carefully (does anyone have any leads on the coupe rear window mechanism)

Best regards,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Thank you. These videos I had seen before but they don't cover my issue.
As the picture I uploaded shows, my tracks needed lubrication badly.
The rest of the mechanism seemed OK.

I will need to find out more on the "reset" he mentioned towards the end of the second video.

Steve
 

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Steve,

Just wanted to send you a note of thanks for all the helpful information. It is most appreciated. I do have a follow up question though.

In part 4f "Rear Differential Support Bushing" Segment there is an item 56 "Rear Subframe Support Bushing Repair Kit". You clearly have done a lot of work repairing, maintaining and restoring your vehicle. May I ask did you evaluate the subframe bushings if so how? Simply torn or compressed? Did you find them in good order? If they were deemed in need of replacement how would you have handled that job? I ask because I seem to agree with your approaches.

Just interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

Seth
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Steve,

Just wanted to send you a note of thanks for all the helpful information. It is most appreciated. I do have a follow up question though.

In part 4f "Rear Differential Support Bushing" Segment there is an item 56 "Rear Subframe Support Bushing Repair Kit". You clearly have done a lot of work repairing, maintaining and restoring your vehicle. May I ask did you evaluate the subframe bushings if so how? Simply torn or compressed? Did you find them in good order? If they were deemed in need of replacement how would you have handled that job? I ask because I seem to agree with your approaches.

Just interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

Seth
Dear Seth:

Thanks much. Coming from you, this means the World to me.

Now, in post 4f, there is this diagram:



I purchased the front and rear subframe bushings, but did NOT venture to install them.
Visual inspection made me believe that I can roll the dice on them and perhaps get a few more years on the originals.

I believe the best option to replace them will be to drop the subframe. I was very close to doing it, and in fact, I strongly recommend it to anyone who needs to do the differential output shaft seals.

Best regards,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
The output shaft has a c-clip, which needs to be pulled in order for the output shaft to come out. To remove the c-clip, one must remove the differential cover. Part #173 on the diagram. 8 bolts which also require HZN bit. But to get to them, the rear differential support (part #179) also needs removed. This job is a BEAR. There are 6 bolts in total. Two secure the brace to the subframe (via the rear differential support bushings) and four bolt onto the differential cover plate. Access to some of those is EXTREMELY difficult.

I absolutely hated the two top ones — no room for finger, let alone a socket.
Today, while trying to correct I mistake I made in another thread on rear suspension and driveline components, I did some reading and came across and excellent picture of the w140 rear subframe.

The bolts I loved so much messing with are shown from a different perspective.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
The MOST difficult job was wrestling with the last bolt, the one that keeps the brace attached to the subframe via the differential support bushing on the right side.

The picture needs no words. The bolt is #182 on the parts diagram
.

On one side is the spare wheel well, on the other - the accumulator sphere and the ADS module. Even with those out of the way, putting any wrench there is very hard.
Aaah.....and this little fella. I think in over a year on Benzworld, I never used CAPITALS and bold in the same post until I had to put this little paragraph together.

As it is perhaps evident from the pictures, dropping the rear subframe is the way to go if extensive work is needed in the back.

Steve
 

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Quite honestly, I stated this in my own thread but got shot down. It's common knowledge. While I appreciate Steve's advice, this is his first Benz; I'm on #8 and I assume most of us are not on our first.

Any Mercedes from this era DOES NOT like to sit. They sit, they rot. Think moss and mold in the caps and rotors, shrunken rubber from sitting "cold" most of the time, etc etc. Seen it too many times. My 93 400E only ran well when run regularly, and HARD. Don't work the top every week in the 129? It will complain.

I'm fine with my $2500 176k 97 c140 V12, which I am now in for $6600 with accumulators, tires, steering shock, coolant reservoir, wiper blade, 3 new coils and boots, 12 plugs, and a claybar. I will end up being in the car for around $10k when I address the leather replacement on one seat, rear control arms/swaybar links, and possible rear shocks.

The m120 with "all these miles" runs smooth as glass, never felt anything smoother.

A Mercedes that's been driven and has miles on it has had some level of maintenance and upkeep, which is worth far more (to a driver, at least) than a dry-rotted example which hasn't had maintenance because it wasn't driven.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Quite honestly, I stated this in my own thread but got shot down. It's common knowledge. While I appreciate Steve's advice, this is his first Benz; I'm on #8 and I assume most of us are not on our first.
I am missing something here. What was "shot down", what is "common knowledge" and what was my rookie advise that led to your post?
Best regards,
Steve
 

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Part 2. The SLS shocks. As expected, the shock mounts and the lower bushings were past their prime. New bushings were made and fitted following this lead: My solution for replacement of the lower SLS joint I also provided a picture of what the infamous shock mount looked inside. The picture is somewhat misleading. The rubber was rock-hard and would easily crumble: Accumulators -- to change or not to change
Hi Steve, can you share the experience few years after replacing lower bushings in sls struts? Any problems due to the fact that rubber has less flex than original joints? Any leaks, etc? I am going to go the same way.
 

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WOW! I did not realize how much I appreciate this site and the people on it. The pants made me laugh, replacing the rear sub-frame mounts made me envious, I want to do this to my car I just don't want to take that long because I like driving it so much. I was a really good read and inspirational, now I need the help, any volunteers? :sneaky:
 
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