Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
I just don't understand, it looks like you have room for DOZEN more cars. Why is it not all filled with MERCEDES?!
He'll get there in no time, trust me
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
That space is not mine, just rented, and being 45 minutes from my home, it takes time to move my cars there. I only want to move running cars that I don’t want to work on any time soon to that location. I also want my sister and her family to be able to drive the cars out easily if they need to use the space. So it’s not “mine”, just great storage. I do not plan to ever have more than 10 cars there. I also didn’t plan on buying any this year though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I’ve got to figure out which r107, c107, and w126 cars are worth fixing up, and which get parted out. I enjoy fixing junk. Turd Ferguson is a special kind of junk though. Usually I make the ones I’m going to part out run before I part them out to at least verify the parts. I’d been doing so well not buying anything this year, and was actually net negative on my inventory of vehicles for a change for the majority of 2019. But not in the last few weeks. Having the following (valuable) cars with rot makes finding good metal valuable to me:

  • 1978 450slc 5.0 (from @dgosh28 )
  • 1972 350sl 4-speed
  • 1972 350sl 4-speed with a 4.5 in it
Turd Ferguson will help others live on if it doesn’t live on itself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
I would be in serious trouble if I had access to an enclosed storage area like that. I've been saving old garden tractors from being scrapped, so saving old 107s would be a very easy transition to make.
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I would be in serious trouble if I had access to an enclosed storage area like that. I've been saving old garden tractors from being scrapped, so saving old 107s would be a very easy transition to make.
It’s crazy this thing is really pretty rot free. The rear seat buckets are the only real rot to be found. So I guess when I get the POR-15 out, this thing will get some coats in the sensitive places. I’m lining up the r107s for work and have one that needs to be chopped up and scrapped, which might provide metal for the ones that need it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,725 Posts
Keep it up - I remember another '73 you had (and sold); salvage title polished into a gem. Based on your history, Turd has potential. We will rename it if you do.
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Keep it up - I remember another '73 you had (and sold); salvage title polished into a gem. Based on your history, Turd has potential. We will rename it if you do.
Thank you. Yes, “spokes” (different thread) reminds me of my first MB, a black 1973 450sl that, for a short time, had euro headlights and shiny wheels.

Spokes is running considerably better than Turd Ferguson. I put a fuel bottle in place of spokes’ tank due to the insane amount of sediment in its tank. I really have no reason to believe this tank is better other than the perception that the fuel is flowing better from the tank. I don’t think I removed the pump (or drained the tank), but I do recall flushing the supply line to the engine bay, and not the return line. I think I got hasty wanting it out of my driveway and just being very pleased that the car would move under its own power. Spokes was taken to a higher level though.

Hmm... I’m glad I write all this stuff here because I honestly can’t remember it all without documenting the vehicle history here. I hope everyone doesn’t mind.

So back to documenting “progress”...
Last night I put 12v on every injector to make sure they click. The first, cylinder 1 didn’t seem to click at first. It started clicking after applying 12 v repeatedly via the bump box switch. All the others I tested quickly clicked. I wasn’t able to get the plug out of cylinder 2 though. The plastic started breaking before the plug came out. I sure was thinking of you @cushjbc and your rebuilt wiring harnesses when, especially when the wires were shaped in a permanent “U” at most of the injectors, but that I probably mostly the protective outer sleeve that’s gone brittle like the boots. I think I can feel it clicking when the motor runs though. Perhaps I should disconnect the fuel and have someone crank for me to get a better feel while the car isn’t running. Anyway, I assumed that the injectors are not my issue. Just because they cook doesn’t mean they are good.

I loosened the timing Allen bolt and gave it just the slightest bit of advance which really raised the idle. I cranked down the idle screw several turns. Still the car seemed to need lots of revs to move, making me think maybe the transmission is a trouble spot for acceleration.

Anyway, now I am thinking of these potential issues: fuel tank, trigger points, transmission, leaky exhaust. Maybe just put the window in and/or park it in the barn and forget about it



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Keep it up - I remember another '73 you had (and sold); salvage title polished into a gem. Based on your history, Turd has potential. We will rename it if you do.
Thank you. Yes, “spokes” (different thread) reminds me of my first MB, a black 1973 450sl that, for a short time, had euro headlights and shiny wheels.

Spokes is running considerably better than Turd Ferguson. I put a fuel bottle in place of spokes’ tank due to the insane amount of sediment in its tank. I really have no reason to believe this tank is better other than the perception that the fuel is flowing better from the tank. I don’t think I removed the pump (or drained the tank), but I do recall flushing the supply line to the engine bay, and not the return line. I think I got hasty wanting it out of my driveway and just being very pleased that the car would move under its own power. Spokes was taken to a higher level though.

Hmm... I’m glad I write all this stuff here because I honestly can’t remember it all without documenting the vehicle history here. I hope everyone doesn’t mind.

So back to documenting “progress”...
Last night I put 12v on every injector to make sure they click. The first, cylinder 1 didn’t seem to click at first. It started clicking after applying 12 v repeatedly via the bump box switch. All the others I tested quickly clicked. I wasn’t able to get the plug out of cylinder 2 though. The plastic started breaking before the plug came out. I sure was thinking of you @cushjbc and your rebuilt wiring harnesses when, especially when the wires were shaped in a permanent “U” at most of the injectors, but that I probably mostly the protective outer sleeve that’s gone brittle like the boots. I think I can feel it clicking when the motor runs though. Perhaps I should disconnect the fuel and have someone crank for me to get a better feel while the car isn’t running. Anyway, I assumed that the injectors are not my issue. Just because they cook doesn’t mean they are good.

I loosened the timing Allen bolt and gave it just the slightest bit of advance which really raised the idle. I cranked down the idle screw several turns. Still the car seemed to need lots of revs to move, making me think maybe the transmission is a trouble spot for acceleration.

Anyway, now I am thinking of these potential issues: fuel tank, trigger points, transmission, leaky exhaust. Maybe just put the window in and/or park it in the barn and forget about it



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Sorry about that double-post above. It looks like I can’t edit it. :(

Anyway, it started raining this morning, and I put 12 gallons in Turd Ferguson at the gas station yesterday. It wasn’t running happy. That’s for sure. The exhaust that I put on the car seems to have a catalytic converter, and it had been getting some sulfur smell. I need to address that.

Anyway, I thought I’d try to document the condition of the car with a video, and I ended up finding the time to go a bit further. The 1.5 hours worked out well for Turd Ferguson.

Here’s where I started today:


And after discovering no voltage on Cyl#2 injector plug while running (and also I believe noticing no difference in idle when the spark plug was removed from cyl#7) I decided to go after the trigger points, figuring that would be easier than the ECU. Well, I was wrong. I guess I at least verified a set of parts trigger points I had on hand (which I left in the distributor). After swapping the ECU, the car is running well. I set the timing to 5 atdc with vac, 5 btdc without, verified the AC clutch works, the idle changes when AC goes on and off, and the car runs well now.


So I may just send it off to the farm for storage now. I’m not sure if this car is going to be a donor
for more exciting projects, or get a paint job. The stink will have to come out first.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Outstanding Contributor
Joined
·
21,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Installed a window motor and a window regulator, and found there was glass in the door tat for some reason I didn’t see before. I’d even stuffed an SLC driver door glass in the back thinking it was the best thing I had for the job. Had I know this, I probably would have just propped up the glass and called it done, but I had a total of 4 r107s for which I Haas some door panel / window related work to do. So my “head was into” door panels and windows, making the work go much quicker, not having to re-learn anything.

The early style window regulator was broken where they all break, the “C” for the regulator slide that is fully boxed on later years. Fortunately when I was grabbing a window motor for the 1979 450sl I’m fixing up, I grabbed it’s regulator too. So I had one ready to install on the spot, no hunting or fetching.

The motor I used is a bad one from the 1979 450sl I’m trying to finish up to sell. (It’s a shame it’s red and my almost 13 year old daughter has taken a liking to that rusty car.) Part of the internal gears in the window motor is stripped at one point in the circle. So you have to pull the glass up a bit to give it help. That’s a lot better than no window at all. It works, down, and help it up. If out for a cruise, it might suck in a sudden rain storm, but that’s a long ways off for this car. I only had one “good” motor to work with and two driver doors needing a regulator, so this situation works, with not having any imminent plans to do much besides “fixing and cleaning” on this car. I think I know where I’ve got another if it comes to it.

Oh. The guide blocks. There’s felt that wraps the glass and fits on with a friction fit. I resorted to using some of the Indian head gasket sealant I have not used in years, and it seemed to help for sure. Of course the rear block I didn’t do fell off right as I was finishing up, and I head it fall off inside the door. I’d learned not to mess with these blocks, but maybe the head gasket sealant will be a decent solution next time I need to seal a block on the glass. Maybe any old adhesive is better. I don’t know.

Then as for rest of the progress tonight, I was able to get the driver seat out, and saw there’s no seat pad left at all.


I have the seat tilted now, sitting up on the driver rocker, and no BS, it’s an improvement due to the overall increased height to be able to see over the steering wheel. LOL. Maybe I will work on the seat padding some day.

The passenger rear wheel arch is a bubble rusty mess. I hit it with a hamburger wheel and can refine my work and hit it with rust converter and some primer some time in the future. This car is crazy how it’s so darn solid.

CHEAP FUN!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top