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Battery went dead, have new battery, cannot open trunk to put it in.

Trunk handle is popped out, i can press the button but cannot turn the key at all. Up, rotate press etc does nothing.

Tried to "jump" it with a 12v through the lighter.... central locking does not operate still. trunk release doesn't either.

What is the way to open the trunk when all else fails?

:surrender:
 

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'07 CLK350
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nothing broken. finally!
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Discussion Starter #3
I have no such thing. Where exactly is it? pictures anywhere?

"passenger area carpet" is vague. I have some green wires on the right and a brown and a red wire on the left... but no connections anywhere.
 

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I've never had to do it myself, but if you pull up the floor mat and carpet on the passenger side you should be able to see a large cable that supplies power to the starter motor. This cable goes straight to the battery.

If I read the diagram right, it is connected to position 4 on terminal block X4/10.

The battery is designated G1 and the starter motor is designated M1 on the diagram.
 

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nothing broken. finally!
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Discussion Starter #5
found the said junction box

(you have to remove the metal foot rest too)

it provides no power.ARGH


ps. yes same box. lets try it again..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the key wont turn for some bloody reason. then again, i never used the key so im not sure if its broke, stuck or related to the total loss of power.

called a dealership, got forwarded to road assistance, so they should come today and get it done. ive done everything i can short of frying something. not worth it.

i'll watch what they do and share.
 

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SEC 600 V12 2dr COUPE (RHD) One of the chosen few.
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could be you have the valet key that wont open the trunk or glovebox but will do all other things.. try another key (if you have one)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
'i was using the master remote.

we gave it power and it was unlocked via the remote (only way to get the trunk to release). the cental locking will not be powered via the cigarette lighter.

the terminals under the passenger area carpet are a little finicky because you need to remove a lot of stuff and then very few jumper connectors will actually be small enough to clamp onto a bolt or such - these are NOT designed for that. there are no connections. just where the battery + terminates at from the trunk and then a misc ground attached to the fender for another purpose.

you need to

- remove floor matt
- remove hvac filter cover
- lift front of door sill
- maybe (you can do it without but why) remove the little carpeted section between the front of door and firewall
- lift the carpet from where it sits along the passenger foot rest area (the angled portion, back of firewall)
- THEN, you will see the metal cover. get the 2 nuts at the bottom off and pull and slide metal cover down. be gentle, you don't want to tear any of the 100 connections under it.

then you will see the 3 red wires connected to a plate next to a thicker black wire connected to the same plate. they are next to a K something marked black box. bobs post shows all that

the mb person clamped to the big black wire connection (technically any will work as they are all connected) and to the ground on the fender (green/brown wire stack on mine). once you get that you get power on.

and you must use the remote if you locked it with the remote. otherwise, you are hosed. it will not release.

after you get your trunk open, crank it with a 12v (or one in a vehicle as long as the vehicle isn't running).

all in all its a PITA. no photos because its freezing out + wind and me and the service person were freezing and wanted it just done. My jumper clamps were too big to make a good connection, thats why i got no power. They kept hitting the plastic ridges..

moral of the story.. just don't let your battery die. bad things happen. i now have a funny warning light but will deal with it later. i think its the airbag and might go away.

While it might be mechanical, there is some operated link that unless you have air/power, will not release and you won't turn the key no matter what if locked with the central system. I can now turn the key just fine. Once the central system unlocked it. The button on the dash is useless. It only works if it is the one that did the locking. Otherwise, it's just an ornament.

Maybe mine is just broke, maybe.
 

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M20
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glad to hear you got it done. this might be a prelude to DIY install for jumper connections to the battery from under the back seat.

Added to knowledge base
 

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1993 300SEL (Sold) 2007 X5
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I'm always surprised when I hear this because I can unlock my boot with just the key when the battery is dead. Perhaps it's just early W140's which can do that.
 

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I'm always surprised when I hear this because I can unlock my boot with just the key when the battery is dead. Perhaps it's just early W140's which can do that.
Ive never encountered a totally dead battery. Ive only experienced an undercharged battery because of alternator failure. but I was able to start it over right after

can anyone else with an early model confirm this?
 

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W220 S320 CDI 2005; W140 S280 1994 (Sold Nov. 2012)
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.....
we gave it power and it was unlocked via the remote (only way to get the trunk to release). the central locking will not be powered via the cigarette lighter.
Hi Gyrate,

Glad you finally got in. I guess the cigarette lighter approach didn't work because that cct only gets connected to the battery when the ignition key is in position 1. I don't know whether you tried that or not.

As far as I can see, that would have done it - unless there is a relay in that cct which is also required to be energised - but I can't see one in the cct diagrams.

If that approach won't work then I think that you could have connected your new battery to a fuse that is hot at all times in the main box - one that is direct to battery. Fuse 11 (20 amp), for example, for the central locking is always hot.

I have a 20 amp fuse with the plastic cut away at one side and a lead soldered to the exposed fuse terminal. I have used this as an easy way of obtaining a fused 12 V supply for checking things out under the bonnet (hood) but I'm sure it could have been used in your position to power up the central locking. It sounds a bit easier than taking up the carpet, etc, etc.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Hi Gyrate,

Glad you finally got in. I guess the cigarette lighter approach didn't work because that cct only gets connected to the battery when the ignition key is in position 1. I don't know whether you tried that or not.

As far as I can see, that would have done it - unless there is a relay in that cct which is also required to be energised - but I can't see one in the cct diagrams.

If that approach won't work then I think that you could have connected your new battery to a fuse that is hot at all times in the main box - one that is direct to battery. Fuse 11 (20 amp), for example, for the central locking is always hot.

I have a 20 amp fuse with the plastic cut away at one side and a lead soldered to the exposed fuse terminal. I have used this as an easy way of obtaining a fused 12 V supply for checking things out under the bonnet (hood) but I'm sure it could have been used in your position to power up the central locking. It sounds a bit easier than taking up the carpet, etc, etc.

Mike
He did it with the key being outside the ignition, near the mirror sensor. My trunk button always has no resistance. Basically you press it and the trunk pops, like an electrical solenoid releases it. I feel no notches or anything that will indicate a physical connection.

No doubt there are several ways to get the circuits to power on, but for me jumping fuses or clamping to the alternator was a risk not worth taking. I just left the benz people do it and they used the floor plate, which i suppose is already fused in. Im sure they want to avoid liability as well as make any changes to the vehicle.

What i will end up doing is either running 2 batteries or routing a terminal connection to the inside of the bumper, under the stock battery. This way you can always juice/charge the main battery. Also useful for trickle chargers without having to deal with the plastic cover and trunk matt all the time. paint and seal the holes with silicone and its good to go.

ps.

so i went to look at it and play some more. the vent hole under the battery is big enough for you to route anything so you don't have to drill. My lock notch is in the beginning, basically as soon as you press the button. You have to look for it to sense it. Said notch isn't there when the trunk is locked or open.
 

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He did it with the key being outside the ignition, near the mirror sensor. My trunk button always has no resistance. Basically you press it and the trunk pops, like an electrical solenoid releases it. I feel no notches or anything that will indicate a physical connection.

No doubt there are several ways to get the circuits to power on, but for me jumping fuses or clamping to the alternator was a risk not worth taking. I just left the benz people do it and they used the floor plate, which i suppose is already fused in. Im sure they want to avoid liability as well as make any changes to the vehicle.

What i will end up doing is either running 2 batteries or routing a terminal connection to the inside of the bumper, under the stock battery. This way you can always juice/charge the main battery. Also useful for trickle chargers without having to deal with the plastic cover and trunk matt all the time. paint and seal the holes with silicone and its good to go.

ps.

so i went to look at it and play some more. the vent hole under the battery is big enough for you to route anything so you don't have to drill. My lock notch is in the beginning, basically as soon as you press the button. You have to look for it to sense it. Said notch isn't there when the trunk is locked or open.
Right, so that is the difference then. On mine there is a mechanical release you can feel it pop when you push in the button. Anyone know when they changed this?
 

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Right, so that is the difference then. On mine there is a mechanical release you can feel it pop when you push in the button. Anyone know when they changed this?
Looking at the collection of Owner's Manuals kindly provided by bayhas, for '98 and '99 models the index lists: 'Trunk, remote unlocking'. So I guess that's when M-B introduced it.
 
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