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Trunk Pop Up FIX - 10 mins and no cost!

9919 Views 20 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  mahunt
Hi everyone,

Since owning the vehicle (3 months), the trunk button on the key remote and the trunk release button by the gear shift never did anything. Its supposed to unlock the trunk and raise it 2 inches.

When pressing the buttons, I could hear the trunk trying to unlock, but it wouldn't. The only way to open it would be to push the large black circle button beside the licence plate, and then lift the trunk up manually.

I'm the type where if something doesn't work, I like to fix it, especially when buttons don't work. After lots of searching and reading on here it seems people say you need to replace the trunk actuator or latch mechanism, which can be costly.

I discovered that if I pushed down on the trunk firmly with my hand while at the same time pressing the remote trunk button, and then slowly taking my hand off, the trunk would unlock and automatically lift up a couple of inches (the way its supposed to).

So I figured that the pressure of the trunk being closed is too much for the actuator to unlock the trunk, it needs less pressure on the lock. So instead of spending time dismantling the trunk trim and playing with the actuator or lock I thought maybe extending the length of the top trunk latch would ease the pressure on the bottom lock. This can be done by removing the top trunk latch and putting a spacer behind each of the 2 bolts.

The top trunk latch is easy to remove. Take note of the position of the 2 bolts (mark with a pencil, or just remember), and remove. I placed 2 rubber spacers (washers) about 1.5mm thick over the bolts, they go between the back of the latch plate and the trunk metal. This basically extends the length of the latch by 1.5mm, just enough to release the pressure off the locking mechanism.

The end result = fixed!

Took 10 minutes, no cost.

The spacers can be rubber or metal, and very thin (about 1.5mm). Too thick and the trunk will sit a bit too high when closed and might not be watertight. If too thin, then the trunk still wont pop up. You might need to try a couple of different spacer sizes.








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Hi everyone,

Since owning the vehicle (3 months), the trunk button on the key remote and the trunk release button by the gear shift never did anything. Its supposed to unlock the trunk and raise it 2 inches.

When pressing the buttons, I could hear the trunk trying to unlock, but it wouldn't. The only way to open it would be to push the large black circle button beside the licence plate, and then lift the trunk up manually.

I'm the type where if something doesn't work, I like to fix it, especially when buttons don't work. After lots of searching and reading on here it seems people say you need to replace the trunk actuator or latch mechanism, which can be costly.

I discovered that if I pushed down on the trunk firmly with my hand while at the same time pressing the remote trunk button, and then slowly taking my hand off, the trunk would unlock and automatically lift up a couple of inches (the way its supposed to).

So I figured that the pressure of the trunk being closed is too much for the actuator to unlock the trunk, it needs less pressure on the lock. So instead of spending time dismantling the trunk trim and playing with the actuator or lock I thought maybe extending the length of the top trunk latch would ease the pressure on the bottom lock. This can be done by removing the top trunk latch and putting a spacer behind each of the 2 bolts.

The top trunk latch is easy to remove. Take note of the position of the 2 bolts (mark with a pencil, or just remember), and remove. I placed 2 rubber spacers (washers) about 1.5mm thick over the bolts, they go between the back of the latch plate and the trunk metal. This basically extends the length of the latch by 1.5mm, just enough to release the pressure off the locking mechanism.

The end result = fixed!

Took 10 minutes, no cost.

The spacers can be rubber or metal, and very thin (about 1.5mm). Too thick and the boot will sit a bit too high when closed. If too thin, then the boot still wont pop up. You might need to try a couple of different spacer sizes.








Great thinking and doing Mr. Kiwi!
I just did the same thing after reading your write up!
You're OK...I don't care what people say about you!:D
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Great thinking and doing Mr. Kiwi!
I just did the same thing after reading your write up!
You're OK...I don't care what people say about you!:D

That's great to hear! I'm glad I could give back to the forum. Hopefully this fixes many others trunk pop problem without spending money at the dealer, or time taking the trunk apart. It's my favourite type of fix, gives me more buttons to play with now :thumbsup:
nice thread

mines been okay but good to know an easy fix
There's a trunk button on the remote?

It depends on the year of the vehicle.

Some have one button remotes (used to lock and unlock),
two button remotes (one to lock, the other to unlock),
three button remotes (one to unlock, one to lock, and one to open trunk),
and four button remotes (one to unlock, one to lock, one to open trunk, and a panic button)

I don't think they are interchangeable. You must use the type that came from factory.
Interesting....

My trunk doesn't pop when I hit the trunk release button on the remote....as a matter of fact, it doesn;t unlock it at all.

I hit the button and I hear the vacuum engage the lock, however the trunk never unlocks, or pops. Even if I hit the lock mechanism it is still locked.

If I unlock with the unlock button, the trunk lock releases, but no pop. Does the lock need to be in a certain position?

Thoughts?
Interesting....

My trunk doesn't pop when I hit the trunk release button on the remote....as a matter of fact, it doesn;t unlock it at all.

I hit the button and I hear the vacuum engage the lock, however the trunk never unlocks, or pops. Even if I hit the lock mechanism it is still locked.

If I unlock with the unlock button, the trunk lock releases, but no pop. Does the lock need to be in a certain position?

Thoughts?
Yes, this is the same problem I had. I could hear it trying to unlock, but it wouldn't.

You should apply this fix. You only need very tiny spacers, about 1 to 1.5mm only. You can always add thicker ones if the trunk still doesn't pop up, but start small first. Let me know if it works for you.
MB,

If I pull up on the trunk while hitting the button it still doesn't release. I'll try the spacers


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Since owning the vehicle (3 months), the trunk button on the key remote and the trunk release button by the gear shift never did anything. Its supposed to unlock the trunk and raise it 2 inches.

When pressing the buttons, I could hear the trunk trying to unlock, but it wouldn't. The only way to open it would be to push the large black circle button beside the license plate, and then lift the trunk up manually.

I'm the type where if something doesn't work, I like to fix it, especially when buttons don't work. After lots of searching and reading on here it seems people say you need to replace the trunk actuator or latch mechanism, which can be costly.

I discovered that if I pushed down on the trunk firmly with my hand while at the same time pressing the remote trunk button, and then slowly taking my hand off, the trunk would unlock and automatically lift up a couple of inches (the way its supposed to).

So I figured that the pressure of the trunk being closed is too much for the actuator to unlock the trunk, it needs less pressure on the lock. So instead of spending time dismantling the trunk trim and playing with the actuator or lock I thought maybe extending the length of the top trunk latch would ease the pressure on the bottom lock. This can be done by removing the top trunk latch and putting a spacer behind each of the 2 bolts.
Fresh blood thanks for your finding....:bowdown: and I look forward to your fix because it looks like you've read some of my posts that say, "seems people say you need to replace the trunk actuator or latch mechanism, which can be costly."

So when the sunlight comes up tomorrow I'll be all over it and let you know how things turn out. Right now mine works with the key fob when the temp is cool outside but after sitting in the sun I have to use the black manual trunk button to enter the trunk.
Fresh blood thanks for your finding....:bowdown: and I look forward to your fix because it looks like you've read some of my posts that say, "seems people say you need to replace the trunk actuator or latch mechanism, which can be costly."

So when the sunlight comes up tomorrow I'll be all over it and let you know how things turn out. Right now mine works with the key fob when the temp is cool outside but after sitting in the sun I have to use the black manual trunk button to enter the trunk.
Yup! They were some very long threads I read thru. I'm certain that this fix will solve your problem. As mentioned before, use tiny spacers first, you want JUST enough pressure taken off the lock. Any spacer too thick will make your trunk sit too high when closed, and possibly let water in. I would start with spacers only as thick as a credit card, and then move up sizes if it doesn't work.
Remote trunk activation

Silly question but directed to Mb-DownUnder. I noticed you have a reflective traffic triangle in your trunk. Since I have a 1999 I am guessing that I did not have one come with my car as there are no attachments under the trunk lid for one. What years came with these if any. Thanks, CW
Those reflective traffic triangle were not available on US cars
Silly question but directed to Mb-DownUnder. I noticed you have a reflective traffic triangle in your trunk. Since I have a 1999 I am guessing that I did not have one come with my car as there are no attachments under the trunk lid for one. What years came with these if any. Thanks, CW
CW, when you have a question like the one above would you please send a Private Message (PM) to the posting member, start a new thread, or Search the forum rather than taking the thread Off Topic (OT)? Many members, your not alone, do the same and it really screws with the original topic.

Thanks for your understanding, Lynn
This can be done by removing the top trunk latch and putting a spacer behind each of the 2 bolts.

The top trunk latch is easy to remove. Take note of the position of the 2 bolts (mark with a pencil, or just remember), and remove. I placed 2 rubber spacers (washers) about 1.5mm thick over the bolts, they go between the back of the latch plate and the trunk metal. This basically extends the length of the latch by 1.5mm, just enough to release the pressure off the locking mechanism.

The end result = fixed!

Took 10 minutes, no cost.

The spacers can be rubber or metal, and very thin (about 1.5mm). Too thick and the trunk will sit a bit too high when closed and might not be watertight. If too thin, then the trunk still wont pop up. You might need to try a couple of different spacer sizes.

My trunk POPPED in cool weather like today but I bought several M14 brass washers since the bolt is brass. But I always have a hard time with you guys that say that they got the job done in 10 minutes. You forgot to mention that there is a hidden plate that you have to line up and hold in place with your fingers in order to screw one bolt with the washer in at a time. Then try and find the other hole to screw the next bolt w/ washer into.

It's 10 minutes if your Superman with X-ray vision. But thanks for your DIY. Now I'll have to wait for warmer weather to se if the trunk continues to POP or needs another set of washers to increase the distance of the latch.
My trunk POPPED in cool weather like today but I bought several M14 brass washers since the bolt is brass. But I always have a hard time with you guys that say that they got the job done in 10 minutes. You forgot to mention that there is a hidden plate that you have to line up and hold in place with your fingers in order to screw one bolt with the washer in at a time. Then try and find the other hole to screw the next bolt w/ washer into.

It's 10 minutes if your Superman with X-ray vision. But thanks for your DIY. Now I'll have to wait for warmer weather to se if the trunk continues to POP or needs another set of washers to increase the distance of the latch.
I like to keep my Superman status and X-ray vision on the down low or the media will be bugging me all the time.
My trunk doesn't pop nor does it go up easily on its own, despite having new lift cylinders on it. I have additional concerns about this as I have a hazard triangle I'm about to install and I know the additional weight will affect this as well. I'm wondering if there were different lift cylinders for the non-U.S. spec cars due to the additional weight?

I'm curious to try this and see if it has any effect on my trunk lid operation.

For what it's worth, I have to say that those rubber washers you show in the photo look very much like garden hose sealing rings….

Dan
My trunk doesn't pop nor does it go up easily on its own, despite having new lift cylinders on it. I have additional concerns about this as I have a hazard triangle I'm about to install and I know the additional weight will affect this as well. I'm wondering if there were different lift cylinders for the non-U.S. spec cars due to the additional weight?

I'm curious to try this and see if it has any effect on my trunk lid operation.

For what it's worth, I have to say that those rubber washers you show in the photo look very much like garden hose sealing rings….

Dan
I think you are right, they were the only things I could find in my tool box at short notice when I started testing my theory to see if it would work. They were actually too thick, they made my trunk sit up too high when it was closed. I replaced them with washers half as thick and it still fixed the problem. I recommend people start with washers/spacers as thick as credit card (very thin), and if it doesn't fix it try thicker ones. If you get to the point of using ones the size in my photos and it still doesn't work, then I think you have a problem with the actuator or an air leak in the plunger arm.

When you say lift cylinders, do you mean the struts that keep the trunk up when open? If so, those have nothing to do with the unlocking and lifting action (pop up). The unlocking procedure comes from the actuator, and the lifting action (2 inch lift) is from the plunger arm positioned to the left of the lock.

There's no harm in trying this, you can easily remove the washers/spacers if it doesn't work.

Also, the weight of the warning triangle is very minimal and has no effect on this fix. I would assume we have the same trunk struts? I could take a look at the part number in the morning. The trunk opens firmly, and stays up without problems or feeling weak. When you start to close the trunk a few inches it basically falls using its own weight to close.
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Trunk lid latch fix > POP

My trunk POPPED in cool weather like today but not in warmer weather so I bought several M14 brass washers since the Trunk Lid Striker, p/n 1297500032 bolts are brass. There's a hidden Striker Plate that you have to line up and hold in place with your fingers in order to screw one bolt with one M14 washer in at a time. Then try and find the other hole to screw the next bolt w/ washer into. Now I'll have to wait for warmer weather to see if the trunk continues to POP or needs another set of washers to increase the distance of the latch.
Well it's been 6 weeks and the trunk continues to POP to OPEN at various temperatures w/o adding any additional washers to increase the gap. Thanks for the finding MB_DownUnder

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