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1978 450SL--117K
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1,374 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, on both the SLs here, the metal skin of the trunk lid have come loose from the cross members. The lids were glued on to the cross members rather than welded. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement? M-B "all purpose glue" no longer exists.
 

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1986 560 SL
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7,354 Posts
Yes, clear. I used it 6 or so years ago. Still there.
The lid rattled when I closed it. It doesn't anymore.
 

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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus ES300
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46 Posts
I used strips of black foam closed cell weatherstrip. Can't recall exact size, but about 3/16" thick X 1/4" or so. I removed only short sections of the peel-n-strip backing to ease the insertion at the ends where it got tighter. Worked them in with a putty knife. They stopped the vibration from the trunk mounted Infinity Basslink, so if you just want it quiet to close the lid, should work well. Also easy to redo in places if it works loose, or gets in crooked, and way less messy (I'm a putz with a caulking gun, and always too impatient with waiting for stuff to set up.)
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,330 Posts
I used strips of black foam closed cell weatherstrip. Can't recall exact size, but about 3/16" thick X 1/4" or so. I removed only short sections of the peel-n-strip backing to ease the insertion at the ends where it got tighter. Worked them in with a putty knife. They stopped the vibration from the trunk mounted Infinity Basslink,
You have a fish linked to your trunk?:eek:
 

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1978 450SL--117K
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1,374 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I used strips of black foam closed cell weatherstrip. Can't recall exact size, but about 3/16" thick X 1/4" or so. I removed only short sections of the peel-n-strip backing to ease the insertion at the ends where it got tighter. Worked them in with a putty knife. They stopped the vibration from the trunk mounted Infinity Basslink, so if you just want it quiet to close the lid, should work well. Also easy to redo in places if it works loose, or gets in crooked, and way less messy (I'm a putz with a caulking gun, and always too impatient with waiting for stuff to set up.)
I would afraid that the use of strips would distort the trunk lid--it's supposed to be slightly concave like the hard top, isn't it?

Thanks guys. Back to bed to cough and feel like shit--picked up the flu over the weekend. God how I hate people that go out when sick and infect other people. In a righteous world, they would be placed in "stocks" for such a thing.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,330 Posts
I would afraid that the use of strips would distort the trunk lid--it's supposed to be slightly concave like the hard top, isn't it?

Thanks guys. Back to bed to cough and feel like shit--picked up the flu over the weekend. God how I hate people that go out when sick and infect other people. In a righteous world, they would be placed in "stocks" for such a thing.
That is why I chose to be a hermit.:thumbsup:
 

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1981 380SL
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256 Posts
All this time, I thought that was just the way it was. Only sounds tinny when I close the trunk, never while driving.

I would think that a construction adhesive would work well also. Something like Liquid Nails.
 

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1978 450SL--117K
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1,374 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
All this time, I thought that was just the way it was. Only sounds tinny when I close the trunk, never while driving.

I would think that a construction adhesive would work well also. Something like Liquid Nails.
Nope--if you look, you can see the caulk lines from the factory. As expensive as these cars (and no auto soft top, even) were, there would not have been a tinny sound in the show room. they were at least twice as much as the nicest caddy or Jag at the time.
 

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1978 450SL--117K
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1,374 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The problem is going to be as to how to apply the caulk, and then place proper pressure on the lid to hold it in place while it dries. I don't want to have to remove the trunk lid on the 560. The 450 can wait till I paint it.
 

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Premium Member
1975 450SL
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2,440 Posts
I'd put my 2 cents in for silicone. Silicone is wondrous stuff, just ask any stripper. Use the "Outdoor" type, it's more resistant to aging, it should be labeled to last for 20 years or more. You don't really need to put any 'tension' on the silicone, just restrict/eliminate movement. The flexibility of silicone would damp out any vibrations.

Scott
 

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1978 450SL--117K
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1,374 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I'd put my 2 cents in for silicone. Silicone is wondrous stuff, just ask any stripper. Use the "Outdoor" type, it's more resistant to aging, it should be labeled to last for 20 years or more. You don't really need to put any 'tension' on the silicone, just restrict/eliminate movement. The flexibility of silicone would damp out any vibrations.

Scott
But it looks like it's purpose was to also attach it to the cross members and possibly help it hold that concave look like the top has. I distinctly remember these as having that concave look. Not as much as the Pagodas, but still noticeable. It was one of it's defining features back then--nothing else like it on the road.
 
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