[Daniel Dror]

Just a week after replacing the motor mounts and enjoying a nice smooth ride. The automatic transmission (722.6) in my 2002 E320 Gasoline wagon is giving me serious issues...

Here's what happened:
After a Sunday shopping at Costco I pulled onto the highway, it downshifted a little hard and I started hearing a whining sound. I kept going for another hour as the car seemed ok, but when I pulled off at my exit the car stuttered and revved without moving. I turned the key off and on and managed to nurse it home while it continued to whine loudly and stuck in 2nd gear. The check engine light came on during this...

What I've done:
Read the codes and got P0730 (Incorrect gear Ratio) and P0715 (Input/Speed sensor A circuit)
I also got P0112 (Intake Air Temp. Sensor Circuit Low) and P0102 (Mass Air Flow Volume Low)
I'm not sure why I got the two MAF sensor codes, but I have been having intermittent issues with the MAF.
Main issue is the transmission though.

I checked the transmission fluid level when hot and cold with the Amazon dipstick tool. I had a hard time getting an accurate reading because it's hard to feel when it hits the bottom and the tip seems to bend slightly, but it seems to have plenty of fluid and looked to be relatively clean.
I ordered the Transmission Connector from Amazon in the hopes of a cheap easy(ish) fix but my research says it could likely be the transmission conductor plate inside the tranny (I haven't ordered that yet though).
I did also check the Transmission Control Module in the engine bay and no signs of oil.
So, I got the car in the air and managed to pull off the transmission connector and about a quart of fluid gushed out!
This is where I'm at now. Also unfortunately the connector part I ordered, though the seller said it's OEM, is a Chinese made FREY and only has one O ring gasket. Not sure if I should put it in or not.
Unfortunately the car needs to be moved, so I need to do something ASAP.

Thanks!

 

[mrboca]

Which O ring is it missing ? Big one or small one ?

 

[illstplaya]

Yeah you need a new conductor plate. The amount of fluid that came out sounds normal. You did not drain the fluid in the pan and some came out through the connector, that's normal.

If the car has to be moved then put the old connector back in and move it. As long as you only move it few feet you won't have to add any transmission fluid.

Don't forget to get a new transmission pan gasket, drain plug gasket, and transmission filter.

 

[Daniel Dror]

Thanks...I'm gonna order the conductor plate, gasket and filter kit and another connector plug.
Approximately how much transmission fluid will I need to add after doing the repair?

 

[Deplore]

6 or 7 quarts.

 

[Daniel Dror]

6 or 7 quarts.

Really? I'm reading that it should only need 3.5-4 liters if I only change the oil in the pan...

Also, the web is giving me conflicting instructions on how to check the transmission level, should it be in P or D when using the dipstick? (engine running at 80c of course).

 

[mrboca]

Thanks...I'm gonna order the conductor plate, gasket and filter kit and another connector plug.
Approximately how much transmission fluid will I need to add after doing the repair?

I would just clean and replace the adapter plug first, and replenish the lost fluid. You may need to clear codes from the TCM and the ECU to get out of the limp mode, and you need to connect the TCM via the 38 pin diagnostic port. If the car shifts fine, then the problem is solved. It could be the conductor plate (speed sensor issue), but your car is a 2002, and it is less likely that it has the same problems the older ones have.

Regarding measuring the level in P or D, it should be measured after you start the car and change gears several times from P to D, then back to P, and then measure the fluid level (in P) when the transmission fluid is cold. It should be in the "cold" range on the dipstick. If not, add / remove fluid to attain the range. Then drive the car for 1/2 hour or so, mixed city, highway driving. The idea is to get the ATF temperature to 80 degrees C, not the engine coolant temperature. Then stop the car with gear in Park and measure the fluid level. It should be in the "hot" or 80 degrees range. If the transmission has shifted fine (no slips), the second (hot) measurement is most likely not needed. It is needed if you have some issue with shifting and when the transmission slips.

Of course, after you fix the issue, you need to clear the codes in the TCM prior to ATF level checks.

 

[Daniel Dror]

Ok...Update and success (mostly).

I ordered the 722.6 maintenance kit from FCP euro and I set aside an afternoon to replace the connector plug, conductor plate along with a new filter, gasket and the correct fluid for the box...

Everything was going well and I wasn't making an enormous mess, but the 1 of the 10 torx bolts was on super tight and I ended up rounding it off! FUDGE!!
Feeling defeated and having no other option I put everything back together and refilled with 4 liters of fluid.

Of course the CEL was on and the car was still stuck in second gear, but it was behaving better. I went to the dealer to get them to reset the transmission. At first they said I had to pay, but after 30 minutes the guy came out and said no charge and it was good to go!

Seems back to normal and now I have a much better understanding of my transmission and respect for my car.

So, mrboca, big thanks and you were right, I probably didn't need to mess with the conductor plate after all.

 

[Daniel Dror]

Well.....Another update. I guess we jumped to conclusions thinking it only needing the transmission connector.
Because the transmission suddenly started 'slipping' again....D and R were like Neutral....Unfortunately this happened on a Sunday, 40 minutes from home, with the whole family, and the two Golden Retrievers in the back, on a 90 degree day
Luckily tow insurance covered us and Grandmother drove out to get us home.
The car was taken to the mechanic, where they put in the conductor plate I had ordered from FCP Euro. $300 later and it seems to be back to normal again, though it's only been two weeks and no long trips, but (knock on wood) hopefully it's fixed for good this time

 

[Daniel Dror]

Another Update with bad news...
The car was fine for three weeks after putting the conductor plate in, then suddenly cruising along the engine revved up and it had no drive. Luckily I was less than a mile from home, so I coasted to a stop turned it off and waited a few minutes and limped home (I did have to turn it off and on again once more). I got the codes P0715 and P0730...
So, do you think the gearbox is dead at this point? Any other advice before I go shopping for a rebuilt gearbox? The car is almost perfect otherwise and only has 100,000 kms. I'm pretty disappointed

 

[Deplore]

Yup, dropping in neutral at speed is a pretty good indication of that.

Swap and go.

 

[illstplaya]

Read this. It explains what would cause those two error codes.

STAR TekInfo

I would check the fluid level and make sure the connector at the side of the transmission is plugged in all the way. I would also check the TCU and make sure it's not full of fluid. If everything checks out, I would bring the car back to the mechanic and explain the situation. They may be willing to drop and pan and check the filter for you without charging you.

 

[mrboca]

If you have loss of drive, it is very likely related to the speed sensors. The speed sensors may be fine, but you may have issues with ATF contamination in the plug adapter, as well as the TCM.

It is best to check live data from the TCM with diagnostic equipment on speed sensors N2 and N3 with the car shifted to different gears to confirm.

 

[Daniel Dror]

I reset the code and I took it for a test drive. I was able to shift up through the gears and even use the manual shift mode, but after ten minutes I began to hear a high pitched whining from the front of the gearbox. Just managed to make it home then lost drive as I tried to reverse into my parking space. shoot...

Not getting any help from shops here in Japan Typical Japanese attitude to replace rather than repair.
No such thing as transmission repair specialist.
20 year old European cars are almost worthless here. Only things I can find are used boxes in the $800 range.
Not sure if it's worth spending more than the car is worth putting in a used transmission. Inspection is finished next month as well, which is $700.

 

[illstplaya]

I would drop the pan and replace the filter and I would also drop the valve body and check the conductor plate speed sensors. Those are the two things that can cause the whining sound.

 

[Deplore]

Isn't the whining sound coming from B2 clutch or the transmission pump?

 

[Daniel Dror]

Whining sounds like it's coming from the front of the transmission. When I'm driving it is the area next to the pedals/behind the stereo...I found a place on the other side of Japan that sells overhauled boxes for $2,500...Debating whether to do this or not. I suppose I should at least drain the transmission one more time and replace the filter again...Do you think it's worth doing? I don't want to mess with the inside of the transmission myself though.

 

[Deplore]

Depends on how long you're planning on keeping the car. If its for years and years, shell out the extra dough for the reman. If not, just buy the used one, make sure it has warranty, and then YOLO it.

 

[tabijan]

My wagon did that whine then no forward motion when I got it as a fixer a few years ago. I replaced the conductor plate and pilot bushing, cleaned the TCM, ensured proper filter fit, filled with MaxLife then cleared codes. It’s been fine since.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon 198K miles

 

[TheTech86]

I had the transmission conductor plate replaced in my 2002 E320 . Replacement was done by a local mechanic. Now the transmission wont go into gear. The fluid levels are good double checked plug. You can shift the gears but the car won't move. The mechanic is researching. Does the transmission need to be reprogrammed . Help is appreciated