[jmerc6]

I just got off the phone with the local transmission indy. The car delays going into reverse and then shutters briefly before smoothing out. It takes off in 2nd gear, but again is smooth in shifting.
His diagnosis is that I need a rebuild. His cost $2500 parts and labor!
My question is, "Is this a diy job?" I've already diy'ed the head gasket and all the vaccum pods, but I've never tackled a tranny. What should I do?

 

[BRM5985]

I am right where you are. Slow to engage in reverse plus whine linked to engine RPM. 335K miles 1993 300D Turbo. I have taken it to a respected indie tranny shop and he suspects dry seals and a front tranny pump and maybe the torque converter. The whine has a deceptively sexy tone to it.

I, like you, have done some fairly major engine work and I have asked the same question: Can I (you) do it? Here is what I am planning:
I can pull the tranny and rebuild/replace the clutch pack, Bands, seals Everything, really, but the valve body (aka fluid computer?) which I am sending out for a pro to deal with. I got a quote for $3,000 grand for the rebuild. I think there are some rebuilding shops that you may be able to order one for a grand or 1,200 and swap yourself. I have more research to do before I get into this one. Auto trannys and their function have always been in the 'ghost in the machine' realm for me so I am approching with caution. Good luck

 

[ps2cho]

If you've done a head gasket, you can do the transmission B3 bands :thumbsup:

It is incredibly inexpensive...even if you need to buy a transmission jack you can reseal the front pump and replace all the B3 bands for ~$150. You'll need a good long weekend or several weekends to do it although it can be done in a day.....My advice is to set some time aside and go through it slowly. Do it carefully and do it right.

Head to my site in my sig and give a read of the transmission rebuild DIY. Should give you a good idea on what to do.

2nd gear start is normal FYI. Only the late model 722.3's had the 1st gear valvebody.

 

[jmerc6]

Thanks, Psycho!!

I'm going to give it the ole college try. I have got the cd, but I think having someone on the forum to resource will be a tremendous help.

Where is your site that you referenced?

 

[jmerc6]

What parts do I need to order?

 

[ps2cho]

http://w124-zone.com/?p=130
There is the direct link

Parts you need:
Gaskets....depending on how much you want to rebuild...
Your Parts Search Returned 13 Part(s)

Below are definite "needs":

TC / front oil seal:
Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

Front pump oil seal:
Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

B3 bands / reverse friction disks:
Your Parts Search Returned 4 Part(s)

Filter + gasket:
Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)
Your Parts Search Returned 2 Part(s)

^ **** Don't use those links. Input your model # first and ensure you are getting the right parts...that is for my 300TE. Just use it for visual reference and match with your model *****

Since you are doing it, buy the K1 shift kit and do that upgrade. It's like $12 at the dealer. Information at the bottom of the transmission DIY on the site.

 

[jmerc6]

Thanks! Thats exactly what I've been looking for. I'm heading to the tool store to buy me a tranny jack today.

 

[jmerc6]

Started on taking out the tranny today. But I'm having problem the transmission to break loose from the motor. I think there are still two bolts on the top of the bell housing but I can't see them or reach them.
Am I right about the bolts? If so, any suggestions on how to reach them??

 

[mckellyb]

http://w124-zone.com/?p=130
There is the direct link

Dude. You've inspired me!

Plus, I have another W124 forum to visit!

 

[ps2cho]

Started on taking out the tranny today. But I'm having problem the transmission to break loose from the motor. I think there are still two bolts on the top of the bell housing but I can't see them or reach them.
Am I right about the bolts? If so, any suggestions on how to reach them??

You did remove the torque convertor -> flywheel bolts right? 6 total.

As for the top 2 bolts, reaching them like normal is close to impossible. Lift the front of the engine at the pan using a block of wood then drop the tranny jack down and use a number of long extensions going all the way to the back of the transmission. Its a PIA, but at least you can just about see what you are doing :thumbsup:

 

[jmerc6]

Thanks Ps2cho, much appreciated!!

I have all the bolts removed including the torque converter. The only two left are the top two in the bell housing. I finally gave up b/c I could feel myself losing my patience. Whenever that happens nothing good comes from it.

Merry Christmas!!
Jerry

 

[ps2cho]

Yep, don't get frustrated...take a break then go at it when you feel fresh. It both saves your mind and mistakes too.

Like I said, easiest way is to drop the transmission down and reach it from the distance. You'll need like 2-3 feet worth of extensions....That's how I got it, no problem.

Take care on removal as the TC can tend to want to stay engine-side. You don't want that sucker falling on your head :thumbsup:

 

[jmerc6]

Thanks again. Trans is out!! The only damage is the plastic linkage broke b/c I forgot to disconnect. I've got to get a p/n and order another.

Any advice how to remove the t/c without the speciality tools pictured in the illustration?

 

[ps2cho]

Thanks again. Trans is out!! The only damage is the plastic linkage broke b/c I forgot to disconnect. I've got to get a p/n and order another.

Any advice how to remove the t/c without the speciality tools pictured in the illustration?

Special tool? Just pull the sucker out! :thumbsup: Remember it locks in place with the front pump gear, so just keep turning until it comes out.

Yeh I busted my linkage doing the same thing....putting a new one in myself in a few days.

 

[jmerc6]

Okay. I feel a little dumb. The t/c came out easily when I saw the plastic "keeper" holding it in. I've got the front pump out but I'm not sure how to get the B3 out. Looking at the pictures it seems there's some type of pin on the right that's got to come out.

 

[ps2cho]

Okay. I feel a little dumb. The t/c came out easily when I saw the plastic "keeper" holding it in. I've got the front pump out but I'm not sure how to get the B3 out. Looking at the pictures it seems there's some type of pin on the right that's got to come out.

Yep, if I remember, you can remove it by hand, but on rebuild, you must tighten it from outside the casing so that it torques against the large band (excuse forgot name).

Once that is out, you are home free at the bands. If you have a magnet, it will aid in removal of all the disks Make sure you label and put them in order so you know which way is which like I did. Just a good measure...

 

[jmerc6]

Thanks. I assume the "F"1, ect labels on the discs is "Front 1", etc?

 

[ps2cho]

Thanks. I assume the "F"1, ect labels on the discs is "Front 1", etc?

Yeh...label as you want, I just used F to signify which way was front. I wanted to ensure they went back in exactly the way they came out. :thumbsup:

 

[jmerc6]

I'm now knee deep into the rebuild of the tranny. I have a question concerning the reverse piston (p/n 126 272 22 31) has a seal inside (p/n 126 272 00 92). The old one looks to have some damage.
I don't have a replacement. Do I really need to replace it? How important is it?

 

[J. M. van Swaay]

Don't put it back together without replacing this seal. If this seal leaks, it will prevent pressure buildup in the B3 piston--this will result in weak or no reverse. You don't want to do this twice!

J. M. van Swaay