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OK - I have a minor transmission leak in my 1985 380se.
The mechanic told me it is the transmission pan gasket. After I left the mechanic I started thinking... how much is parts and labor to replace a transmission pan gasket? or, given the age of the car, should I get then entire transmission pan replaced (not just the gasket)? if I replace the entire transmission pan, what would the parts and labor be for THAT?
I am trying to determine the total parts and labor difference between replacing the entire pan vs just the gasket.
The car has just 136,000 miles and the transmission was rebuilt in 2009.
Thoughts?
 

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OK - I have a minor transmission leak in my 1985 380se.
The mechanic told me it is the transmission pan gasket. After I left the mechanic I started thinking... how much is parts and labor to replace a transmission pan gasket? or, given the age of the car, should I get then entire transmission pan replaced (not just the gasket)? if I replace the entire transmission pan, what would the parts and labor be for THAT?
I am trying to determine the total parts and labor difference between replacing the entire pan vs just the gasket.
The car has just 136,000 miles and the transmission was rebuilt in 2009.
Thoughts?
Unless the original pan is bent, there is no reason to place it. Just replace the gasket. You should be able to get a new filter & gasket for under $40. As et7724 said, it is a quick job. Even a novice should be able to do it in about 20 minutes. Just be sure to get enough fluid to replace what you drain. Your local auto parts store can look up and tell you how much you will need. You should be able to do the entire job yourself for about $50 and in less time than it would take to drive to the mechanic.
 

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it's about 3.5 quarts if you just drain the pan (that's on a SD with a 722.3 trans-i think your 380SE is the same transmssion; someone else chime in to verify)
 

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You might as well drain the torque converter while you are at it an fill with all new fluid
It has a drain plug on it
 

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You might as well drain the torque converter while you are at it an fill with all new fluid
It has a drain plug on it
You will need a socket and ratchet to turn the engine over to access the drain bolt on the TC. Don't waste time like I did trying to turn the starter over to get to it.
 

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Nfsjunkie91,
+1 on that, but IF you are extremely lucky, like I was last week on a 300D, it stops in almost the perfect location. It was off of center just a tish in the proper rotation. I merely popped off the front cover of the flywheel and was able to move it into the correct position by using a hand wrench on one of the flywheel bolts.
That said it WAS more luck than sense though.
 

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i've got it in almost the right spot too with a remote starter, i think one time i might have spent 5 min to get it right though
 

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Does the front axle crossmember really need to be removed for access to the Torque Converter drain plug?

If so, do the self-locking bolts need to be replaced or could I just re-use them with blue loc-tite?
 

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Yes, it does have to be removed on my 1986 420SEL anyway. It's only 6 bolts, easy to remove.

Also, if you have trouble with lining up your TC drain bolt, its easy enough to reach in to the drain cutout in the bell housing and turn the TC with a thick, flat blade screwdriver. It only turn like 1/2 inch at a time, but, eventually the drain comes around.
 

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Can't stop or find leak location

I have replaced my transmission pan and gasket on my 722.4 tranny, and it still continues to leak from the right rear transmission bolt area. I checked the transmission mating surfaces when I have had this apart, twice now. It only leaks after being driven, as I have let it sit and idle for a half hour after performing the pan, gasket, and filter changes and it does not leak, even when it is driven up on the car ramps so the oil would tend to gater around the rear bolt area. Could ti be leaking through the bolt hole itself?
 
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