[wvcaudill]

I am the original owner of a 98 ML320 with 196,000 well maintained miles. Last night on the way home, as I stopped for a red light, the transmission did some kind of funky downshift - very abrupt. When the light changed, the car wouldn't move (it was in Drive! and I did press the gas pedal!). I placed the transmission in 1st gear on the manual side and it jumped and took off. I drove the rest of the way home using the manual shift. This morning I started the car and shifted it through each gear - the car shifted fine. I then did it a second time and the car didn't shift at all. I place the car in reverse and pressed the gas and got no response initially and then it jumped. I want to keep driving this car, but don't want to replace the transmission. I have searched the forum and will check the battery and 13-pin connector today. Are there any other ideas out there? If it's not something simple, I will probably be looking for a new Mercedes. Thanks.

 

[wvcaudill]

I forgot to mention that I read the codes and there are none.

 

[Loudgoldwing]

sounds like low/watered tranny fluid to me.

 

[mclass13]

Maybe it could be the driveshaft bearing just maybe.Does it make any noise?

 

[wvcaudill]

Changed the fluid about two months ago. I will recheck tonight to make sure.

 

[wvcaudill]

There is no noise. The transmission just doesn't engage. I will search on the driveshaft bearing though. Thanks.

 

[davethebenzman]

sound like the trans fluid and what type of fluid did you use? Now it would not be the drive shafts do to will work fine and then will start to act up. So it will be the comp for the trans or the fluid is too full or needs more, or the wrong type of trans fluid. The torque converter or the clutch pack may be going (the slave). Look for the new Benz. And go for the 2000 or 01 ml55 for about 10-15k

 

[Check Codes]

sound like the trans fluid and what type of fluid did you use? Now it would not be the drive shafts do to will work fine and then will start to act up. So it will be the comp for the trans or the fluid is too full or needs more, or the wrong type of trans fluid. The torque converter or the clutch pack may be going (the slave). Look for the new Benz. And go for the 2000 or 01 ml55 for about 10-15k

Those were my thoughts too. These transmissions are really picky about the fluid (very MB specific for this transmission) and the fluid level. Low fluid level could account for that, so check the connector and level at 80C on the dipstick tool. If you didn't use the specific MB fluid then all bets are off, though.

Can't be shaft bearings, they either work or they don't, none of this intermittent stuff.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg

 

[wvcaudill]

Just remembered. I only changed the transfer case and differentials, not the transmission. My indie did it probably more than a year ago. Should I have it done again?

 

[Witek_M]

I forgot to mention that I read the codes and there are none.

Have you read codes from ETC or engine only?

 

[AC_ML]

You need to check the OBDII pending codes. Many transmission problems happen infrequently (but will put your transmision in limp mode) and will not set an engine light or error code, but it will be available as pending codes.

When your transmission gets into this funnin state, does re-starting the engine puts your transmission back in working order..? If it fixes your problem, a possibility may be the conductor plate... Check your OBDII pending codes....!!

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1373758-2005-ml-500-transmission-stuck-3rd.html

AC

 

[mlfun]

Isn't 200K getting close to EOL for the transmission regardless of MB "special" fluids ?

 

[cmitch]

Isn't 200K getting close to EOL for the transmission regardless of MB "special" fluids ?

I would hope not.
My 99 ML430 is @ 196,500 miles. Going strong.

 

[wvcaudill]

My OBDII scanner said there are no codes. Was that for the engine only? How do I get the ETC codes? Shouldn't they be displayed? Anyway, I checked the battery last night and it read 12.66 volts, which I believe rules it out. I pulled the 13-pin connector and it did have some oil on it. I cleaned and dried it and then drove around the neighborhood without any problems. This morning however, on the way to work (about a 20 min commute), when I got off the exit and slowed for the light, just before stopping, the car started "bucking"! I immediately put the trans in Neutral and it stopped. I then put it back in Drive and made it on to work. Should I replace the 13-pin connector, have the trans serviced, others?

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[davethebenzman]

Ok so you have never changed the tans fluid at all. Or its been a wile. The trans fluid needed to be changed at about 100k. now if you are still having the prob get the trans fluid changed with the MB trans fluid and remember to take it out of the torch converter(there is a drain plug) and it also may be the trans filter just plugged (iv see that before). Now take the comp out of the prob and look at it as just a trans prob. Like your 107 but will no use the same trans fluid (needs synthetic “ think with your dipstick jimmy”) you need to get the trans fluid tool( you need the right dipstick do to all 163 didn’t come with one) about 79.00 for it at the Steelers

 

[Witek_M]

My OBDII scanner said there are no codes. Was that for the engine only? How do I get the ETC codes? Shouldn't they be displayed? Anyway, I checked the battery last night and it read 12.66 volts, which I believe rules it out. I pulled the 13-pin connector and it did have some oil on it. I cleaned and dried it and then drove around the neighborhood without any problems. This morning however, on the way to work (about a 20 min commute), when I got off the exit and slowed for the light, just before stopping, the car started "bucking"! I immediately put the trans in Neutral and it stopped. I then put it back in Drive and made it on to work. Should I replace the 13-pin connector, have the trans serviced, others?

Thanks for the suggestions.

You are very limited with just OBDII scanner. Some codes are not displayed at all. Some get remapped to same OBDII code like P0720 or P0702. List of codes below.

 

[wvcaudill]

Wow, all those codes for the transmission? The fluid was changed at 100,000+ at this same indie. Not exactly sure, but it was somewhat over the recommendation. I have the car at the indie now and they will hopefully be able to tell me what is wrong. Also, it only seems to happen with the last downshift - just before stopping. All the other shifts seem fine. I will let you know the outcome.

 

[davethebenzman]

cool and good luck

 

[wvcaudill]

Indie says not transmission - but transfer case. He mentioned that it was redesigned and since mine is original it should be replaced. He says a new one is $2850. Any ideas? I don't think I intend to invest this much in this vehicle.

 

[wvcaudill]

Found a new OEM transfer case online for $1,000. Indie said he would install for about $500. Still sounds like a lot of money for a 11 year old car with almost 200,000 miles, which is only worth at most $6,000 (Kelley Blue Book). What do you all think?