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Discussion Starter #1
:mad: I just had my transmission fluid / filter changed yesterday. The mechanic test drove the car then checked the level, checked for leaks etc., I test drove the car pretty hard for a good 20 minutes, took it back and had them check everything again. On the way home from the shop, it drove better than it's driven in months. I just went to my garage to take the car out for a hand wash, and there's a good size puddle of transmission fluid on the ground? The shop is closed on Sundays, but I left a long/loud voicemessage for them. Can any of you tell me what happened/what I should do besides track the mechanic down at his home? ugh!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no

I don't have the dipstick. Would I be able to tell if I get under the car? My car is pretty low, but I'll crawl under and see if I can get a pic or two.
Thanks
 

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Get a set of

rhino ramps from walmart and drive up on them,chock the rear tires and go take a look.Did they use mb fluid?Did they make sure to not overfill it?Did the install a new pan gasket and washer on the drain plug.Best to not drive it till you check and they fix it.
ohlord:bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pix are here

I was able to take some pix. I had OEM parts put in yesterday 'new gasket', 'new filter', 'mb trans fluid 5 quarts'. You can clearly see in the pix that there is a problem. The white plastic tab seems to be where the oil is accumulating and dripping to the ground (pix are all upside down). The big spot of trans fluid on the ground (my size 12 next to it for an approx size) accumulated since about 6PM last night. The rest of the spots on the concrete were already there...I park in a covered garage at my apt. complex.

Thanks for any help. It doesn't look good, but I'm no tranny expert...not even close. Please advise.
 

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looks like they left the pan bolts loose to me.

I did this job myself a few months back, and when you clean the mating surface, and put the gasket on, with properly secured bolts, there is NO WAY that thing should leak.
 

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You can't leave those bolts loose, since they hold the metal studs, that hold the pan. This is the way to prevent overtightening the gasket. It is hard to pinpoint leak when whole transmission is wet, but on the last picture the gasket between bolt and the wire looks folded. Wipe out the transmission and see if you can pinpoint it.
 

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You can't leave those bolts loose, since they hold the metal studs, that hold the pan. This is the way to prevent overtightening the gasket. It is hard to pinpoint leak when whole transmission is wet, but on the last picture the gasket between bolt and the wire looks folded. Wipe out the transmission and see if you can pinpoint it.

+1....wipe it clean and wait and see where the leak is coming out, definitely something got overlook by your mechanic.

make sure they did not used old existing parts ie; pan gaskets...etc.

JOE55
 

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You can't leave those bolts loose, since they hold the metal studs, that hold the pan. This is the way to prevent overtightening the gasket. It is hard to pinpoint leak when whole transmission is wet, but on the last picture the gasket between bolt and the wire looks folded. Wipe out the transmission and see if you can pinpoint it.
well, you're not supposed to leave them loose, but you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pix round 2

:eek:I wiped it clean and took some more pix. More blurry than clear unfortunately. You can see that that as soon as I wiped off the fluid, the fluid from the leak came right back out. I can take more pix, just let me know where to point the camera.

Thanks
 

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OK, it's my night to state the obvious. I would get it back to the transmission shop on a flatbed wrecker as soon as possible. At this point, why does it matter where it is leaking because it's someone else's fault and a bad job? If you did the work, that would be different. I'm sure you are upset and please believe me, I would be pulling my hair out if I were you right now. Good Luck!
 

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I agree with Musikman with wasting your and our time on trying to find something we can't fix this way, or another. You are showing drip at the bottom of the pan, while the leak has to occur on the gasket. Go back if the car is still drivable (carry extra fluid and funnel) and insist on putting new gasket. Even the one on the car is new, it got clamped folded and reinstalling it might give low reliability.

BTW the gasket I installed myself few days ago is dry as a bone.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks

You guys are right. I didn't know if I could do something to fix it myself, and I always like to go to the shop knowing what i'm talking about. I did get a response from the mechanic, and I'll be back at the shop tomorrow morning. I've lost about half a quart to a quart, so I believe if I keep it below 50, I should be able to make it to the shop w/out the flatbed. It's only a few miles.
 

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You are welcome

javelintrower,

Please let us know how this turns out. If you heard back from the mechanic over the weekend, it sounds like they are diligent and are willing to stand behind their work. Like they say: Stuff happens and it is pretty unlikely that they screwed the job up on purpose.
 

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wow, thats insane that a shop would put the gasket in wrong or not tighten the bolts!!!:eek:

im no mechanic and i did mine myself a month ago and no leaks,

you should learn how to do it its really simple!!

then you can be sure whats been done to your car!:thumbsup:

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
more bad news

I took the car back to the mechanic today to see what was going on w/ the leak. After totally cleaning the bottom of the car, he found that the gasket was dry, and that the leak was actually starting before you even hit the tray. I got under the car too, and sure enough, you can see that it's leaking out and snaking it's way back to the tray/gasket. The mechanic has told me it is the main seal. I lost less than half a quart of fluid by the way, so he topped it off and gave me some of the shops he uses to do this type of job.

I just got an estimate from an import shop to fix it 8hrs/$80/hr rate plus $50 for parts (they told me I should replace the engine seal too if they're going to replace the main seal). Wow, :crybaby2:
this was the most expensive transmission service I've ever encountered.
 

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I took the car back to the mechanic today to see what was going on w/ the leak. After totally cleaning the bottom of the car, he found that the gasket was dry, and that the leak was actually starting before you even hit the tray. I got under the car too, and sure enough, you can see that it's leaking out and snaking it's way back to the tray/gasket. The mechanic has told me it is the main seal. I lost less than half a quart of fluid by the way, so he topped it off and gave me some of the shops he uses to do this type of job.

I just got an estimate from an import shop to fix it 8hrs/$80/hr rate plus $50 for parts (they told me I should replace the engine seal too if they're going to replace the main seal). Wow, :crybaby2:
this was the most expensive transmission service I've ever encountered.
That's weird, how did the main seal gave up after an ATF job? I mean you don't have that problem before they work on your car right?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ok

Here's the pre-tran change story. My car has been driving 'oddly' of late. I put the symptoms on this forum, so you can see the symptoms in my earlier posts. The consensus was to get a transmission oil/filter change. I took the car in this past weekend, and the mechanic told me I had only about a quart of oil left. It was literally just covering the end of the dipstick when we checked the level before taking the pan off. When we took the pan off, it was not a pretty site. The filter was actually sitting in the pan, and the fluid was very dark. I recently purchased this car, a great deal, but it's just been one thing after the other, the prev. owner was quite elderly, and I don't think she did much maintenance.

My mechanic put 5+ quarts in, new filter/gasket/etc.., and away I went. The leaking started that night.

So I guess in retrospect this problem probably started when I drove to Dallas from Philly and all this started (a month ago). I didn't see any fluid leak though when I really started noting the shifting issues, but if the fluid was already low by the time I realized it, then the pressure was probably too low for it to leak. This is just my guesswork.

I definitely saw the leak today, but I'm not sure what else it could be if not the main seal. I'm open to any opinions. The leak starts before you even get to the pan...the gasket etc. are dry.

Thanks for all the feedback!
 

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I just got an estimate from an import shop to fix it 8hrs/$80/hr rate plus $50 for parts (they told me I should replace the engine seal too if they're going to replace the main seal). Wow, :crybaby2:
this was the most expensive transmission service I've ever encountered.
If they are replacing the engine main rear seal they should and I agree that they should replaced all the seal involved even it's not broken but worn ($20 at most) for the other parts since they are going to take down your tranny and you're basically paying majority for the labor.

And double check everything again what they did ,ask them to wait for you and do not put the car down the rack so you can inspect it easily after the work, and after driving about 50 miles check again for leakage.

Ask for the repair warranty, parts & labor...etc..

Good luck,
JOE55
 
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