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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to replace the pilot bushing or plastic piece that locks and seals the connector on the right side of the transmission.

I took the metal plate off the side that was held in with a torx bolt.

But I can't turn the ivory plastic ring that holds the connector in place. I'm trying to turn it counter clockwise from it's 11 o'clock position down to the 7 o'clock position. But it refuses to twist. I don't want to damage the conductor plate the plastic part attaches to.

Any suggestions for untwisting it and getting the plug out?
 

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I'm trying to replace the pilot bushing or plastic piece that locks and seals the connector on the right side of the transmission.

I took the metal plate off the side that was held in with a torx bolt.

But I can't turn the ivory plastic ring that holds the connector in place. I'm trying to turn it counter clockwise from it's 11 o'clock position down to the 7 o'clock position. But it refuses to twist. I don't want to damage the conductor plate the plastic part attaches to.

Any suggestions for untwisting it and getting the plug out?
Just so we're clear, the connector itself doesn't turn. The ring turns only to release the harness plug (that goes back up to the TCM).

It is a firm connection that can freeze up over time. You could try pushing straight in on the harness plug while trying to get the ring to move either direction. If it is just frozen the combination of pushing in the plug while turning the ring may work. Plus that will help keep the connector or harness from trying to turn with the ring.

If that doesn't work, then assuming you have your new plug and are ready to replace it (and I hope you sourced it from a dealer...there are aftermarket ones that are really crap) you could if necessary just break the ring itself (by carefully nipping at it with diagonal cutters), which would allow you to unplug the harness (it comes straight out) and then remove the wee screw that secures the bushing/adapter to the conductor plate. Then the bushing/adapter pulls straight-away, too. Watch the alignment when you're pulling it and install the new one the same way, being sure not to twist it or misalign it or you'll damage the connector pins on the conductor plate.

Did you read through the various DIYs?

Good luck.
 

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Mine was also so thight that I had to use waterpump pliers to turn mine. Or at least thats the name I know the pliers by. It's those with long jaws which are offset to one side and the plier jaws can be adjusted for size.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes I've read the DIYs. Yes it's the original part purchased from the dealer. Yes i'm trying to turn the white/ivory plastic locking ring to remove the cable.

I'll try some pliers or using a sharp knife to cut the ring off. I'm thinking the knife route may be the best if i'm careful and don't cut in to the plug.

Thanks for the suggestions
 

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Personally I'd avoid the sharp knife. It's very easy to slip when cutting plastic, particularly curved plastic, and slicing into yourself or the harness is no fun.

If tongue-and-groove (water-pump is how I first came to know them, too, Kobus!) pliers don't get it loose, nipping at it bit-by-bit with diagonal wire cutters can be very effective. Once you have cut into it a little way it may well then break loose.

Good luck.
 

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As I remember, the ring helps to pull the plug out as well when it turns? If I remember correctly, I'll only cut the ring as a last resort.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cutting the ring worked great. there was a bunch of dirt and oil in the spiral channel of the plug preventing it from twisting.

inside the transmission the oil was clean so I think it was external dirt. Although I should do a full flush soon.

To cut the ring I used an xacto knife and slow steady strokes. Once I was most of the way through I took a small screw driver put it in the groove and twisted to break the ring.

Also anyone having trouble getting the new bushing in, tap on it a few times to get it in.
 
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