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1998 SL500 2002 ML320 2003 ML500 2007 E350
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
02 320 125k Mi

My son drove home from school last weekend (about 30 miles) and complained the transmission was acting up. He said the truck was not up shifting properly and seem to be "getting stuck in a mid gear". Wife dropped it off at the dealer with note about the transmission problem. I was not in town at the time so I did not have a chance to drive it. Got an email from the service rep with the following 7 issues:

*Transmission conductor plate for shifting concern: $1,215.00 (plus tax which is 8.25% here in TN)

Autohaus AZ has the plate for $168. I searched the forum for DIY info on replacing the plate but could not find a step by step. I am not sure I want to do it myself but 1200+ seems awfully high for this r&r.

Is this a DIY for a moderately competent DIYer? Any advice appreciated.

Other things they "found:"

I researched the forum and I think I'm capable of doing the next 4 as I've done other DIYs (brakes, oil changes, top hydraulics on my SL etc) with help from the forum.

*Throttle cable at some point will create an issue and needs to be replaced : $260.00

*Oil Filter Housing Leaking Oil and when ready to do an oil change needs to be replaced if not sooner. $280 for routine A service and filter housing.

*Belt for pulley system cracking $232.00

*Brake system flush $140

Balance tires $89.00 (this one baffles me as we just had new tires installed a few month ago... and can get it done free at the tire shop)

They want an astounding $2391.00 (I thought it had to be a typo) for replacing the rear shocks... I'm buying new OEMs for the rear and Sachs for the front online and doing that when they get here.
(thanks, Noodles)

$4k for all this... :eek:
 

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2000 ML430 (Sold)
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1,209 Posts
The prices are all right on. All are DIY's which can be found on the forum. The conductor plate can be fun as you need to drop the transmission pan to access it, thereby removing some of the transmission fluid and replacing it. May as well do the 13-pin transmission connector too while your down there.
Throttle cable is easy and self explanatory.
If the actual oil filter housing is leaking for some odd reason and its not just the rubber seal under it, i would let them do that with the A service. If it is just the rubber seal, buy the proper socket and change it out at your next oil change. You need to get it from the dealer, but its only a $6.00 gasket.
The serpentine belt is outrageous. Buy it from anywhere, throw a socket or wrench on the belt tensioner, remove the old and replace.
The brake flush i would let them do myself, just because i feel its a pain in the arse. Instructions are on the forum somewhere.
Rear shocks are the same price i was given, so i did them myself. About a half a day job, should have a helper on hand. Again, instructions are here. Use the search button to find the info on anything you want to tackle.

What led the dealer to the conductor plate? If it is correct, there should be a code or several codes stored. If you get them from the dealer and post on here we can tell if it actually is the plate before you go and replace it.
 

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1998 SL500 2002 ML320 2003 ML500 2007 E350
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Oeschj! I'm waiting for the service rep to call me back and give me a detailed explanation and the codes for the transmission. I'll post them ASAP. If is the plate, I'll do the 13 pin connector too. I'll ask him about the oil filter housing leak.

I agree with you on the brake fluid flush. I've done it on this ML and my SL... its a pain.

The total $$ they want are about what the truck is worth. However its a good, safe vehicle for a college kid to drive and we plan to keep it indefinitely... so I'll be busy the next few weekends.
 

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Purple Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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21,939 Posts
Just did a conductor plate on ours about 45 days ago.

It is much easier on a lift. I paid $200 for MB OE plate from the dealer. Had ATF on the shelf. Rented lift time and had a helper as the valve body weighs a lot and it needs to be held up as the last two screws come out.

Total out of pocket cast was well under $450 and that included the new filter, pan gasket, pilot bushing(13 pin connector), conductor plate, ATF and locking pin for the dipstick tube cap.

Please see this very detailed DIY from the W210 forum.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1446268-atf-transmission-control-module-99-e-6.html#post3538903
 

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1998 SL500 2002 ML320 2003 ML500 2007 E350
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I spoke with the service rep and although he could not provide me with the codes over the phone, he did say the conductor plate coded as bad. He said the codes would be on the paperwork when I picked up the car.
 

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1998 SL500 2002 ML320 2003 ML500 2007 E350
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Code P2200

I was finally able to get by the dealer and pick up my ML. They performed SDS short test and

"found code P2200-component Y3/6n2(Speed Sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has short circuit, followed test steps and found Sensor to be faulty, Conductor Plate on valve body needs to be replaced".

I have ordered a new plate, trans filter, pan gasket, Trans dipstick, a new trans filler tube cap and lock pin; a couple of o ring seals and a new Adapter plug (13 Pin Connector) from Autohaus. (All for less than the cost of the plate alone at the dealer)

Also ordered 9 Qts of MB AT fluid... 11 bucks less per quart than the dealer quote.

As soon as the parts arrive, I plan to r&r the parts and flush/refill the transmission. I'll post results when done.

Thanks to all who responded.
 

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1998 SL500 2002 ML320 2003 ML500 2007 E350
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
"Bump" or "hiccup" when stopping the truck

2002 ML320; 135,000 miles. As per my previous thread, my son said the truck was not up shifting properly and seem to be "getting stuck in a mid gear". Wife dropped it off at the dealer with note about the transmission problem. They performed SDS short test and

"found code P2200-component Y3/6n2(Speed Sensor 2) is faulty or the sensor supply has short circuit, followed test steps and found Sensor to be faulty, Conductor Plate on valve body needs to be replaced".

So a few days ago, I replaced the the conductor plate, trans filter, and pan gasket, along with a new Adapter Plug (13 Pin Connector). I replaced the drained fluid with MB AT fluid, measured with OEM dipstick, and installed a new trans filler tube cap and lock pin…. all as per the DIY.

I test drove the car and the transmission seems to be working fine…Except for one issue… and this was ALSO occurring before the Conductor Plate R&R. I assumed the new plate would solve this problem as well as the "code" issue.

Apparently a incorrect assumption on my part.

The Issue: There is a "bump" or "hiccup" when stopping the truck. This happens just as it stops. It seems to be after the transmission has downshifted into first gear. It does not occur if the truck is in in "1st" gear (selected manually), but does occur in manually selected 2-3-4 (and of course "D"). It does not occur if the truck is slowed down to almost stopped, but only if completely stopped.

Is this an internal transmission issue? I assume it is not related to the conductor plate, but if so, I wonder why it did not force a code. I am wondering if it is a not an automatic transmission issue, could it be a Transfer Case or Differential issue? Or possibly a motor mount or transmission mount.

I searched the forum for about an hour this afternoon and could not find any threads that describe my problem. I'm stumped. Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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It was fun while it lasted
2002 ML320, 2005 S430 4MATIC RIP, 2010 F150 Crew Cab
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11,143 Posts
Have codes been cleared with a device capable of clearing transmission codes?
 

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1999 MTrash 430, its a joke
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190 Posts
More than likely your trans 2-1 adaption is at the limit and you are feeling that when you come to a stop. Your vehicle will shift into 1st basically when you have come to a complete stop or just before, the clutches have worn and you are feeling the clutch pack engage causing a sort of "bump" feel.
 

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1999 ML320
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2,800 Posts
More than likely your trans 2-1 adaption is at the limit and you are feeling that when you come to a stop. Your vehicle will shift into 1st basically when you have come to a complete stop or just before, the clutches have worn and you are feeling the clutch pack engage causing a sort of "bump" feel.
If you are correct you could have broken the news with a little more humanity.
 

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1998 SL500 2002 ML320 2003 ML500 2007 E350
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I don't recall if my dealer cleared the codes after the original diagnostic. I told the service rep that I would be doing the conductor plate repair. I'lll have to call on Monday. Thanks for the responses.
 

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Premium Member
02 ML320 06 ML500
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I don't recall if my dealer cleared the codes after the original diagnostic. I told the service rep that I would be doing the conductor plate repair. I'lll have to call on Monday. Thanks for the responses.
Your dealer was "sneaky" when they gave you the P2200 code, which is stored in the ECM. They purposely did not include the transmission code/s 012, 014 or 015 which are stored in the ETC (Transmission Control Module).

If you only clear the P2200 code from the ECM, your original problem will still exist or a new one will manifest itself. Likewise if you only clear the code/s in the ETC the problem or new one will still exist.

Therefore, clearing the code in one module will not clear it in the other. So you must find an independent mechanic with a professional grade scanner with a Euro. package and have him clear the code/s in the ECM and ETC separately.

There are too many thieves out there so when you speak to the indy, tell him that there are codes in the ECM and Trans. Module and that you want them documented and cleared. Don't tell him what the codes are.

Please take my word for it, if there is a transmission code P2200 in the ECM, there will be a corresponding code (012, etc.) in the trans. module and they must be cleared. If he doesn't come up with any 3 digit trans. codes he doesn't have the right scanner or he doesn't know what he is doing.

Don't think about returning to the dealer to have these codes cleared because they are not going to clear the trans. codes because you did the work yourself.
 

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w163 02 ML500 W210 97 E50Amg w202 99 C230K w124 - need more space, time to build again
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I know this is an old post, but is the closest to my issue I could find. I have a 2005 CLK 500 with the 7 speed transmission. A couple days ago it wouldn't shift out of 1st. I turned it off and on and it seemed to be fixed. Later that day, in traffic it struggled several times to get out of 1st gear, but once it did it ran fine. The next three drives after that I noticed no problems. I am not a DIY guy so I took it to a new indy Benz mechanic as my guy recently retired. He told me he found a fault code of P2200. I asked if it was from the engine or the transmission. He told me it was from the transmission and the valve body and control unit needed to be replaced to the tune of $3,500. Keeping in mind there is no way I could fix this myself, am I getting ripped off? And how sure can I be this code actually means that? Thanks to anyone who can help out with some advice.
Have you searched/asked over in the C209 forum? - that's what you drive. :)

here are a couple of links to do some reading -




As to the pricing, first quote...the indie ($tealer$ship??) is going fi$hing.
If you are able to borrow a scanner or even get a 2nd opinion on the error code(s), I would do that (since you are unable to DIY)
 

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2016 GL450 and 2002 ML320
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I've had to replace all of the conductor plates on all 3 of my ML320s and it's actually kind of a fun job. It's not as difficult as it sounds and it's always nice to replace the transmission fluid and filter after so many miles.

Did you make the repair yet? There are a few videos on YouTube-

Every time that I replaced the conductor plate the error codes went away without even having to clear them and the ML 320s went from limp mode to running perfectly.
 
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