[ejaahm]

Finally, took the bold step and replaced the transmission fluid in my 2005 E320 CDI with 722.6 5-speed auto-transmission. Recently got the car with 71K miles. Last known dealer service at 50K.

I am not very mechanically inclined. The information on the forum helped me a lot. After doing a lot of research, I used FUCHS TITAN ATF 4134 (as per experts on the forum this ATF is best for both newer 7-speed and 5-speed.

I was not able to open the drain plug, for some reason it got stuck, may be I was turning the wrong way. Then I did drop the whole pan, got out only 2L 700ML fluid :-( (I thought I will got about 5 L), replaced filter and gasket. The fluid was not bad, a little blackish, no bad smell, but the magnet was dirty, lot of gunk.

I also bought a transmission adapter plug (pic) but was not able to get the old one out, simply did not know how to do that. I read in the forum that the rubber seal on the plug go bad. There was no obvious sign of leakage. I was afraid that I will break the plug so I avoided excessive force and left it :-(
Does any one know how to get the adapter out, can I replace only the adapter without draining the fluid next time?

Cleaned everything and put back with hand tightening the screws.

Filled with 3L new ATF, opened the cooler return line, the one goes on the lower side of the radiator, passenger side (I hope this was the right line), I could not access where it enters into radiator, so I opened that same line below the radiator (rubber hose and metal part junction). Drained about 2 L first, all old fluid, stopped engine, refilled another 2 L, agained drained 2L, this time I saw new redish color ATF coming out, refilled another 2L. Total ATF in 7L, I think I got about 6L 700 ml out.

Test drove the car, everything is working fine, shifting smoothly, No problem so far, praying to God for no check engine light. I hope I did it right.

 

[SUBUYA]

The "plug" is called a conductor sleeve. It can be replaced by unlocking the electrical connection at the trans, by pulling the tab down (circular ring on the new part). You'll need a 7mm socket and extension or a 7mm flex drive (hazet). Unscrew and pull out the old sleeve. You may have to wiggle the plug but DO NOT TWIST. it's keyed in so it will only go in one way but pins will still bend. BE CAREFULL. When you remove the sleeve you'll lose approx 0.7 liters of fluid. Add fluid get hot and check level.

 

[Noodles]

The new pilot bushing is improved. I had been through two on the ML until the latest
design with a much better o-ring. Like SUBUYA said replace the lost fluid from the
pilot bushing change.

As far as the fluid flush/change if you used 12-13 quarts/liters then you got as much out
that can be done without a machine and I really do not think the minute difference will
make much of a difference.

You saved a lot of money and your 722.6 will thank you. Have you done the rear diff fluid
and inspected the brake fluid? Very commonly under maintained even by dealers.

 

[Check Codes]

Unless you measured -- very carefully -- the amount of fluid you removed and replaced exactly that amount, buy or make a dipstick tool and measure it at operating temp. These transmissions are pretty temperamental about fluid level so you want to be double sure about that.

Congrats on doing this job, and you sound pretty resourceful, so you can make the tool if you like (based on the pictures in the stickies noted below). A good resource is the 722.6xx FAQ sticky in the W210 forum. There are also threads on replacing the adapter/spacer. It's the same transmission, so you can use that info.

Good luck!

 

[ejaahm]

The "plug" is called a conductor sleeve. It can be replaced by unlocking the electrical connection at the trans, by pulling the tab down (circular ring on the new part). You'll need a 7mm socket and extension or a 7mm flex drive (hazet). Unscrew and pull out the old sleeve. You may have to wiggle the plug but DO NOT TWIST. it's keyed in so it will only go in one way but pins will still bend. BE CAREFULL. When you remove the sleeve you'll lose approx 0.7 liters of fluid. Add fluid get hot and check level.

Thanks for that info. I saw a small screw in the middle of the new conductor sleeve, but I could not see that nut in the original one. May be I did not see well because of the wires, and the space was tight although I had the car on the 10" ramp. I noticed no oil in the old one, so I thought I shall leave it on for now and first learn how to do it right.

Noodles: Fuel filter, rear diff and Brake oil change are next project. I can not find Mobil 1 85W90 at my local Kragen, walmart and autozone (they all have 75W90). The dealer told me that they don't sell the quarter bottle, they have in bulk.

Gregs: I shall search the W210 forum, will a transmission dipstick from W210 or ML work for my car as they have same transmission 722.6?

 

[Noodles]

You wont find that gear lube viscosity at a local store. I got mine at the dealer.
Ask the parts guy about the DTB on the gear lube for the diff. MB sent one out
a while back that you can run a lighter weight, but I can not remember the viscosity.
Also with the cost of parts being so extreme for the Brembo brake system please get
the MB DOT 4+ fluid when you change it. If you you use a good power bleeder then you
can switch to another brand of Dot 4+ with a complete flush, but the MB DOT 4+ is very good fluid.

 

[toolman_johnny]

Sign me up on the "DIY Transmission Flush Success" list. Change my tranny fluid yesterday. Piece of cake. I used a total of 8.5 qts, and am pretty sure I got most, if not all, of the old fluid out. Here's a quick run down of what I did.
1) Bought parts and fluid. Spent a total of $104. Items included; 1 case (12 qts) of Shell ATF 134 trans fluid, pan seal/gasket, magnet, bronze drain plug crush washer, 6 new pan bolts, trans filter, and the red locking clip for filler tube cap.
2) Remove the three sections of belly pans/noise shields. Drained tranmission pan first by removing plug....about 3 quarts came out.
3) Removed trans pan....another 1/2 quart in pan....cleaned pan and magnet thoroughly.
4) Removed trans filter...another few ounces inside filter.
5) Pushed new filter into place, put new rubber seal on pan, stuck new magnet to the rear/left (driver side in US) corner of pan, new drain plug washer, and bolted up pan. Note - I wasn't sure if my pan already had the magnet inside, so I just went ahead and ordered a magnet. Turns out, I did have one, so I just added another one...can't hurt, right?
6) Disassembled the trans cooler line joint located just behind the radiator. If you follow the cooler line from the right side of the tranmission (passenger side in US), this is the line you want to take apart. Let the flexible hose end hang, and hooked up a large (about 1" dia) clear piece of tubing, secure tightly to rigid tube connection's hex nut with a suitably size worm clamp. Put other end of hose into an jug (mine was a 5 qt jug).
7) Added 5 qts of fresh fluid to trans.
8) Start car, let run for 15 seconds...during which, I moved the gear selector (holding the brake pedal of course) to reverse, then drive, back to reverse, then park. Shut off engine. Doing this...letting the engine run for 15 seconds pumped out about 3 qts of old fluid.
9) I then added another 2 qts. of fresh ATF to the tranny. Started car again...this time letting it run for about 10 seconds. Moved shift lever through the range again too. This pumped out another two quarts....of which, the final amount was all bright red (new fluid)....and easy to detect thanks to the clear tubing. Remove tubing and let drain.
10) Re-assembled the cooling line joint (best to use tubing/crows foot wrenches), and checked fluid level with MB dipstick tool...and added just enough so that the fluid just started to register on the dipstick.
11) Start engine...check for leaks. Re-installed the three belly pans/noise shields, Put filler tube cap back on (leave locking clip off) and took car for a drive to get trans up to temp (80°C)...verified with a temp gun.
12) Topped up fluid to proper level, replaced filler tube cap and inserted locking clip this time.
Piece of cake, and car drives/shifts perfectly. I used a total of 8.5 quarts of fluid. Your fluid quantity may vary a bit...depending on how much you pump out (i.e - how long you let the engine run). I'd recommend have about 12 qts on hand...just in case you over-achieve. My Shell ATF 134 cost me about $5 a quart...purchased from a local Shell distributor. Just thought I'd share my success story.

Cheers, TJ

 

[Noodles]

Good to see people doing this. The 3 quart purge from the cooling line is called for twice
thus the 12-14 bottles required, but if you got it pumping out nice clean red fluid then you
probably got 90% of the old stuff out.

One question, did you find in any instructions that you needed the 6 new pan fasteners?
I have done this at least a dozen times on several 722.6x transmissions and never needed
new pan fasteners. Not a big deal as they are not costly, just curious.
Also how did the pilot bushing area look? Was it nice and dry? If so I am guessing
it had been replaced at some point, because the old design all fail at some point
and start oozing fluid.

 

[toolman_johnny]

Pilot bushing area was nice and dry. I didn't mention it in my write-up, but I did inspect that area. The new pan bolts were recommended to me from my parts guy. They have a thread-locking compound on them..and as you say, they're cheap, so I went ahead and got new ones. Certainly could have used the old ones...with a bit of medium strength (blue) loctitie on them, but, it was easy enough to just replace them.

 

[Noodles]

Cool, well done! Mission accomplished. Saved a bunch of money and now have transmission
that will thank you by lasting longer and improving your MPG.

 

[mbvis]

2) Remove the three sections of belly pans/noise shields. Drained tranmission pan first by removing plug....about 3 quarts came out.
3) Removed trans pan....another 1/2 quart in pan....cleaned pan and magnet thoroughly.
4) Removed trans filter...another few ounces inside filter.
7) Added 5 qts of fresh fluid to trans.

So you could overfill the transmission by almost 1.5qt before purging through the cooler line?

 

[Noodles]

It will not be under any pressure at that point and cause no harm because it is pumped
right out the coolant line.
Even dealers that do not have the flushing machine use this method.

 

[wward34]

All this was very informative to me. I am getting ready to service my 722.6x trans. (03 E500). I suscribe to a service (alldatadiy) that suggested accessing the drain plug on my torque converter and disconect the cooler lines at the transmission remove trans. plug and pan and gravity drain them. Measure fluid, change filter, clean magnet install pan w/gasket and plug w/new washer and readd exact fluid amount. Toolman Johnny's description did not use any of this gravity drain. I have 3 questions.
1. Which method is better?
2. What is the pilot bushing area being refered to?
3. (If gravity drain is better) How do you refill torque converter, cooler and lines without damaging anything in trans? Thanks for any input!

 

[toolman_johnny]

I did indeed use gravity. When I removed the trans pan drain plug, about 3.5 qts drained out (by gravity). When I removed the pan, I poured another 1/2 qt out of the pan (by gravity). When I removed the filter, another few ounces came out (by gravity). For the rest of the fluid, I used the transmission's own internal circulation pump to exchange the old fluid for new.

1) I didn't mention it, but my vehicle does not have a drain on the torque converter. I spun the motor about two complete revolutions to look for one, as many other have reported, I had no drain on mine. So, my only choice was to use the pumping method to get the old fluid pushed out of my TC, and new fluid pumped in.
2) The bushing being referred to is on the controller unit (right side of trans). This is a known leak point, and many have replaced the controlled...which comes with a better designed bushing.
3) Despite what method you use, the TC will be filled within seconds of starting the vehicle, because of the transmission's internal circulation pump. Using the tran's pump the exchange the fluid was dead easy. As such, even if mine did have a TC drain, I'd take this (pumping) route, but obviously, that's up to you.
Cheers, TJ

 

[wward34]

Thanks for the reply TJ. I believe I will follow your method. Do you by chance know the part# of the dipstick? Is this used for both engine oil and transmission fluid? And where do I get the correct marks for the fluids? Thanks in advance! WW

 

[toolman_johnny]

I don't have the part number at my disposal at the moment, but you should be able to find plenty of them for the 722.6 tranny on eBay That's where I got mine, and it had markings discrete marking on it for "Full" at 20°C and at 80°C. All the best, TJ

 

[wward34]

TJ- Thanks! Ordered trans. and oil dipsticks.

Ejaahm-Where did you find the Fuchs fluid? None of the local dealers nor parts stores even have heard of it?

 

[toolman_johnny]

TJ- Thanks! Ordered trans. and oil dipsticks.

Ejaahm-Where did you find the Fuchs fluid? None of the local dealers nor parts stores even have heard of it?

Oil dipstick? Didn't know one existed the oil level is measured electronically, via the instrument cluster. At least that's the way it works on my 2005 E320 CDI

 

[isstay]

Oil dipstick? Didn't know one existed the oil level is measured electronically, via the instrument cluster. At least that's the way it works on my 2005 E320 CDI

Yes but you can use a tool dipstick on the engine like the trany.

TOOL Page (¯`·.¸(¯`·.¸ ZDMAK SPECIAL TOOL STORE ¸.·´¯)¸.·´¯)

 

[toolman_johnny]

Interesting. Makes me wonder(and hope) that I got the correct one for measuring my transmission fluid level. When you receive them, might you be so kind as to take a close-up photo that compares the two ends? (Where the level would be indicated). I'm very curisou to see what, if any, differences exists between the two. Thanks, TJ