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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm going to be buying a 93' 300ce coupe this weekend. The car has 140k miles on it, and the transmission is bad. But for $750 I can't complain to much, the rest of the car is like perfect. I have yet to see it, but I trust the guy on what he's saying (my boss). I won't see it till saturday but at that price I can't imagine that I'll pass it up. It's black with grey sills, and grey interior.

The story is he had the car for years without ever a problem. He decided one day that he should have the transmission fluid changed. I guess as soon as he got the car back the trans started slipping. He parked the car and it's been sitting ever since. He said it still moves around but can't be driven on the road. I'm guessing he has driven it less then 50 miles since the fluid was changed. This was years ago though.

So what am I looking at here? It seems weird that as soon as the fluid is changed the transmission goes bad. I read that the torque converter needs to be turned when a fluid change is done, if this isn't done what will happen? He's not really a car guy and the way he described the problem was a lurching affect. I believe he had the fluid changed at some chain shop (pep boys, jiffy lube, or a mineke)

So worst case scenario, how much am I looking at for a trans rebuild or for a used trans? Any opinions on this situation would be awesome, thanks so much!

- Adam West
 

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You can find a good used trans and put it in yourself be the cheapest and best thing for you to do, having an indie rebuild will probably run around $3k. you will need all new fluids and filters which includes gasoline.

most likely he had it flushed which shouldn't be done to old trannys unless they are maintained meticulously...i'd bring a battery to make sure its starts fine and everything works. Be prepared to have at least $2.5k ready.

I'd stay away for multiple reasons.
 

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I have a feeling they either A) Overfilled B) did not replace the filter C) Fluid is low.

VERY doubtful damage was done unless they did one of those moron-developed "flushes". NEVER flush ANYTHING. Even then....I still have my doubts about damage to the extent of forcing the car to be un-driveable.

I think start fresh before ruling it off. OE filter, Valvoline Dex III Maxlife fluid (cheap and works great). Drain the torque converter completely. Put in 4 quarts, start car, top up. Remember it must be read with the car running. The 722.3/4 series are very picky on the filter and it makes a huge difference unlike other modern transmissions.

You have no idea if those idiots at pepboys or whatever did not do it right. Heck they could have even put engine oil in it for all you know. It ain't unheard of.
 

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'97 CL600
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I have that same car, '93 300CE. It has 191K and the transmission works perfectly. I agree with the other guys that something is amiss with the last service. I would find a good indie shop and tell them the story. I would guess that the service was botched. Buy it!
Anziani
'93 300CE 191K
'95 E420 121K
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the comments guys! I'm now pretty confused. I'm really only buying the car to try and make some money on it and have some fun. I have a bunch of other cars right now and a couple of them are project cars. I was figuring on trying to get the tranny working for not much money, and if that wouldn't work then maybe even just parting it out. Any thoughts on parting it out? Thanks again.
 

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The story is he had the car for years without ever a problem. He decided one day that he should have the transmission fluid changed. I guess as soon as he got the car back the trans started slipping. He parked the car and it's been sitting ever since. He said it still moves around but can't be driven on the road. I'm guessing he has driven it less then 50 miles since the fluid was changed. This was years ago though.
Classic symptoms of a neglected transmission and then deciding to give it premium treatment such as using synthetic ATF.

Always check trans fluid color. If its not cherry red and/or smells burnt, do not change the fluid until you know what exactly is wrong.

Finally, never ever use synthetic ATF or engine oils. These cars were not designed for it. At best, it's a waste of money. At worst, it's like described by the poster.

These transmissions are not "filled for life". There is no such thing, even in todays cars. I always change the ATF and filter every 15K using cheap non-synthetic Chevron Dexron-III ATF.
 

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I have a feeling they either A) Overfilled B) did not replace the filter C) Fluid is low.

VERY doubtful damage was done unless they did one of those moron-developed "flushes". NEVER flush ANYTHING. Even then....I still have my
doubts about damage to the extent of forcing the car to be un-driveable.
I think start fresh before ruling it off. OE filter, Valvoline Dex III Maxlife fluid (cheap and works great). Drain the torque converter completely. Put in 4 quarts, start car, top up. Remember it must be read with the car running. The 722.3/4 series are very picky on the filter and it makes a huge difference unlike other modern transmissions.

You have no idea if those idiots at pepboys or whatever did not do it right. Heck they could have even put engine oil in it for all you know. It ain't unheard of.
A trans flush or high fluid level would most likely cause the car to leak when running which would be a dead give away. He's right a low level transmission would cause slipping which would be an easy fix. see if he took it to a shop and had it checked out. If he did he knows whats wrong with it, IMO only a moron wouldn't take it in though.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Classic symptoms of a neglected transmission and then deciding to give it premium treatment such as using synthetic ATF.

Always check trans fluid color. If its not cherry red and/or smells burnt, do not change the fluid until you know what exactly is wrong.

Finally, never ever use synthetic ATF or engine oils. These cars were not designed for it. At best, it's a waste of money. At worst, it's like described by the poster.

These transmissions are not "filled for life". There is no such thing, even in todays cars. I always change the ATF and filter every 15K using cheap non-synthetic Chevron Dexron-III ATF.
I don't agree with that statement....as a matter of record the original trans fluid was Dexron Type IIe. Some German engineers I know would take your eyes out with a claw hammer, before arguing about whether Dextron III is backwards compatible.

So I went a different route; I found the correct MB specs for the fluid and went with Amsoil synthetic. You can see the high mileage of my car (actually over 230,000 now) and the trans is original, untouched. Another member here did the same thing with his high mileage gas car (although I think he's had a tranny rebuild), but he used a Mobil 1 ATF product. I'm going on two yrs now and no failure or difference in the tranny performance from before the trial. Admittedly, it's just one car...two if you count the other member.

My rational behind it was; my car is seriously high mileage and the tranny should by all rights have died some time ago. So....everyday it works is a bonus for me. I'm looking for a K1, K2 & B1 spring kit, but not because the Amsoil has failed, but the rough shifting was a problem before the fluid change. The Amsoil has neither helped it or hurt it....which would indicate the springs have failed somewhat.

Agreed though, the tranny was not originally designed for any kind of synthetic ATF. But if you do your homework and find the original MB specs #'s to match the synthetic's, you'll be fine.

Kevin
 

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I agree with Kevin.

As long as you know you have a good transmission, synthetic can be great, but you must get a synthetic that matches specs and is tried and true. I went with Redline D4 Synthetic that is specifically designed for these 722.x transmissions. I used it after my rebuild so there is no old fluid in there. Close to 100% fresh synthetic fluid since I drained out the entire tranny.

That is on my wagon only though. My 260E will have Valvoline Maxlife Dex III until she requires a rebuild since I have zero history for the car. It shifts perfectly, but still I have no history.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so I decided to pass on the car. I have to many projects right now to be concerned with another one. At $750 though I think it could still be a good deal for someone. PM me if you would be interested. The car's located in Pittsburgh PA. Thanks again for everyone's advice.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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so I decided to pass on the car. I have to many projects right now to be concerned with another one. At $750 though I think it could still be a good deal for someone. PM me if you would be interested. The car's located in Pittsburgh PA. Thanks again for everyone's advice.
I'm half way there....just had to buy a 'dealer only' 4matic pressure transducer for $330.:mad: Only one in stock in the Western US....yeah, lucky me.:rolleyes:

These cars are "project cars", especially at that price.:eek: Everybody seems to have the unrealistic hope that they'll find a sleeper, change all the fluids, plugs and drive off into the sunset, worry free. I'm sure it's happened somewhere to somebody, but the majority of these cars demand meticulous maintenance to be anywhere near 100%. They are what they are.....

Kevin
 
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