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Looking into purchasing a Mityvac MV7400 for my oil changes. Can someone help me out with the diameter of the dipstick tube so I know whether the size of the tubes that come with the pump will fit or if I need to buy another one. I have a 2009 ML320 BLUETEC 4MATIC

This is what comes with the MV7400:
0.23 in. OD x 5 ft. long (5.7 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube
0.26 in. OD x 5 ft. long (6.6 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube

Thanks a ton in advance,
Mike
 

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I use the mityvac for a 2008 ml350 and a 2009 s550.
The hoses that come with it does down the dipstick fine with plenty of play. But u will want to go the lowes and get longer hoses so u can put the mityvac on the floor. I even upsized the hose so it would recover the oil faster.

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I do not get why folks want to do a topside oil change it is not that hard doing it the old fashion way, and personally I feel you can not get as much sludge out top side.
On my MLs yes you must remove the guard pan if still there not a big deal plus you have the added benefit of doing a good visual inspection of hoses and bushing. If I had done a top side oil change on our 350 I would of never found the broken shock bolt 3 weeks ago. We did not notice any ride issue, went to pull the oil plug and "Oh the passenger shock is not attached, what do you know"?


Ok aside from 6 fastners holding on the pan, you have the mess of the oil spilling all over the suspension. Get a foot long piece of 4" Aluminum drier vent pipe ( this is your new Mercedes Benz special tool. Loosen the plug, with the vent pipe split open fit the split c shaped between the top and bottom of the plug. it is aluminum you can bend it to fit any way you want . But slope it towards the front of the car. stick your hand up it undo the plug the last turn or so and you have a spillway directing the oil into you 2 gal plus oil pan.


While it drains take you flashlight and have a good look around look for leaks, at hoses, bushings, motor mounts if you can. Prevention is worth a lot, sorry I do not get doing it the quick way, otherwise I'd take it to JiffyLube. Most people that do their own oil change do it not to save money but because then care about their car/s.

Change the oil on a Bugatti Veyron then you have something to complain about it takes about 2 days.
 

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I do not get why folks want to do a topside oil change it is not that hard doing it the old fashion way, and personally I feel you can not get as much sludge out top side.
On my MLs yes you must remove the guard pan if still there not a big deal plus you have the added benefit of doing a good visual inspection of hoses and bushing. If I had done a top side oil change on our 350 I would of never found the broken shock bolt 3 weeks ago. We did not notice any ride issue, went to pull the oil plug and "Oh the passenger shock is not attached, what do you know"?


Ok aside from 6 fastners holding on the pan, you have the mess of the oil spilling all over the suspension. Get a foot long piece of 4" Aluminum drier vent pipe ( this is your new Mercedes Benz special tool. Loosen the plug, with the vent pipe split open fit the split c shaped between the top and bottom of the plug. it is aluminum you can bend it to fit any way you want . But slope it towards the front of the car. stick your hand up it undo the plug the last turn or so and you have a spillway directing the oil into you 2 gal plus oil pan.


While it drains take you flashlight and have a good look around look for leaks, at hoses, bushings, motor mounts if you can. Prevention is worth a lot, sorry I do not get doing it the quick way, otherwise I'd take it to JiffyLube. Most people that do their own oil change do it not to save money but because then care about their car/s.

Change the oil on a Bugatti Veyron then you have something to complain about it takes about 2 days.
I'll be sticking with my topside changes. They take way less time and effort, are way cleaner, and I can still do my inspection just as easy.

As for what hoses you need for your new vac, you want to use the dipstick tube as your tube. You use the hose from the vac and attach a rubber grommet type thing and push it into the top of your dipstick tube. It uses the dipstick tube as your suction and it comes out way faster than sticking a tube down there.

Hope that helps.
 

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I'll be sticking with my topside changes. They take way less time and effort, are way cleaner, and I can still do my inspection just as easy.
.
Not convinced If I have everything set out I can change the oil in 20minutes add 5 for reinstalling the shield. You can't see the bottom of the engine bay from the top! If there is a shield, to inspect the bottom it has to be removed anyway. And again if I did a top my shock would still be flapen in the wind.


If real lazy there is an after market 90 degree ball valve oil plug drain valve. Some say there is a chance it could shear off on a ml I don't see how it is so far up and protected.
 

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Looking into purchasing a Mityvac MV7400 for my oil changes. Can someone help me out with the diameter of the dipstick tube so I know whether the size of the tubes that come with the pump will fit or if I need to buy another one. I have a 2009 ML320 BLUETEC 4MATIC

This is what comes with the MV7400:
0.23 in. OD x 5 ft. long (5.7 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube
0.26 in. OD x 5 ft. long (6.6 mm OD x 1.5 m long) dipstick tube

Thanks a ton in advance,
Mike
What ever you do read the reviews on Amazon for the mv7400 there seems to be issues folks say on second change it did not work, one poster claims it has to do with synthetic oil.
 

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I'll be sticking with my topside changes. They take way less time and effort, are way cleaner, and I can still do my inspection just as easy.
.
Not convinced If I have everything set out I can change the oil in 20minutes add 5 for reinstalling the shield. You can't see the bottom of the engine bay from the top! If there is a shield, to inspect the bottom it has to be removed anyway. And again if I did a top my shock would still be flapen in the wind.


If real lazy there is an after market 90 degree ball valve oil plug drain valve. Some say there is a chance it could shear off on a ml I don't see how it is so far up and protected.
If you are not able to tell that your strut is not connected without physically looking at it, then I would suggest probably just paying someone to do the maintenance on your vehicles....
 

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If you are not able to tell that your strut is not connected without physically looking at it, then I would suggest probably just paying someone to do the maintenance on your vehicles....
There is absolutely no need to get nasty and insult me or my abilities. You do not know anything about me or the situation.

First off the front of an 2004 ml does not have struts, it has shocks in front and struts in rear. If it did and a strut bolt had broke the front passenger wheel would be canted. The alignment would be severely off. Maybe the spring may of ripped through one's fender and the wheel laying flat.

Second we owned the car oh about a whole week. I crawled under it before we purchased shock looked fine.

Third Five days later head on a trip of 420 miles and need 2 cars for reason I do not need to explain. Not knowing when the oil was changed last we did so from the bottom. Noticed said shock. It could of been broken a day or five. If not torqued proper the bolt can snap.

Fourth before this trip car was not driven a whole lot it sat while we made other repairs and had not gotten to the bottom yet. The torsion suspension was tuned in very tight. On earlier MLs a little known fact is you can adjust ride height and spring tightness by just turning 2 screws.

Fifth I did not drive the car a whole lot, purchased for my daughter a mechanical engineer. And yes both of us did not notice much difference with shock attached and unattached. Yes there is still some life left in the shock. It took a lot of force to compress it . I had to zip tie it up to keep it out of the way while we worked on extracting the bolt.
Which in 90% of the case leads to replacing the lower control arm, which we did. See my post discussing various brands of shocks since that is next on the list of items to be replaced

Five point five there are other accounts from various folks on this site and on other sites that say the same thing. Their was no difference in ride feel and the dangling shock not noticed till a visual inspection of some type. So it has nothing to do with a persons mechanical ability.

Sixth this forum is meant as a place of support for professionals to the youngster with their first car and has never turned a wrench but a desire to learn. Not to knock down ones abilities but to encourage everyone regardless.

Seventh torque every important bolt on a Mercedes that is why the torques are published.

Eighth I am not knocking anyone in offering my view as to how I prefer to change my oil. It is only my opinion and reason why. I even encouraged the OP to do more research on which pump to buy..
 

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Just about all German engines save for some Porsche are designed for topside oil extraction. Since they are designed for it, it works and you will NOT get less oil out doing it this way. The notion that an oil change removes sludge is ridiculous as there basically isn't any with synthetic oils.

Just a reminder for those insisting on removing the drain plug... Germans use crush washers on drain plugs and they must be replaced every time, never reused. Be prepared.
 

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An exception to that is the AMG M113 engine - it has two sumps and must be drained from the bottom.

In terms of which is better - suction or drain - I can only offer my own experiences. I have logged nearly 1,000,000 miles on various MBZ engines and have always (1) used oil as indicated by MBZ for those engines, usually Mobile 1 0w40, (2) used a synthetic fleece filter, (3) changed oil according to the FSS or other extended service schedule and (4) use the suction or top-side method to remove the used oil. I have never had one single oil or lubrication related engine problem. At 80K miles, I had to drop the pan on my former CLK550 to reseal it and found it completely clean and totally devoid of any sludge, residue or particulate. The drain plug on it had never been opened. YMMV.
 

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Just a reminder for those insisting on removing the drain plug... Germans use crush washers on drain plugs and they must be replaced every time, never reused. Be prepared.
Good point on the washer, just wish it was included with the Mann fleece oil filter, they include more then enough O rings! Thanks for bringing it up, same with the transmission plug and torque converter plug if you have them when changing trans fluid.

Synthetic oil resists sludge, even the Grand Poobah itself, Mobil 1 uses that statement. If using Synthetic and changing it on a regular basis (not going to touch that subject at all) chances are it will not happen, If you don't it can happen. Would think if one owner used conventional oil for years and new owner used synthetic my gut would tell me the synthetic could sludge on the first few changes. Since both of ours were acquired used I have no idea what was put in them by the prior owner. Might be my major opposition to a top side change is I have no more room for any more tools, as a contractor my garage is already bursting at the seams with tools and materials.

Regardless of opinions go forth and change your oil regularly.
 

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If you are not able to tell that your strut is not connected without physically looking at it, then I would suggest probably just paying someone to do the maintenance on your vehicles....
There is absolutely no need to get nasty and insult me or my abilities. You do not know anything about me or the situation.

First off the front of an 2004 ml does not have struts, it has shocks in front and struts in rear. If it did and a strut bolt had broke the front passenger wheel would be canted. The alignment would be severely off. Maybe the spring may of ripped through one's fender and the wheel laying flat.

Second we owned the car oh about a whole week. I crawled under it before we purchased shock looked fine.

Third Five days later head on a trip of 420 miles and need 2 cars for reason I do not need to explain. Not knowing when the oil was changed last we did so from the bottom. Noticed said shock. It could of been broken a day or five. If not torqued proper the bolt can snap.

Fourth before this trip car was not driven a whole lot it sat while we made other repairs and had not gotten to the bottom yet. The torsion suspension was tuned in very tight. On earlier MLs a little known fact is you can adjust ride height and spring tightness by just turning 2 screws.

Fifth I did not drive the car a whole lot, purchased for my daughter a mechanical engineer. And yes both of us did not notice much difference with shock attached and unattached. Yes there is still some life left in the shock. It took a lot of force to compress it . I had to zip tie it up to keep it out of the way while we worked on extracting the bolt.
Which in 90% of the case leads to replacing the lower control arm, which we did. See my post discussing various brands of shocks since that is next on the list of items to be replaced

Five point five there are other accounts from various folks on this site and on other sites that say the same thing. Their was no difference in ride feel and the dangling shock not noticed till a visual inspection of some type. So it has nothing to do with a persons mechanical ability.

Sixth this forum is meant as a place of support for professionals to the youngster with their first car and has never turned a wrench but a desire to learn. Not to knock down ones abilities but to encourage everyone regardless.

Seventh torque every important bolt on a Mercedes that is why the torques are published.

Eighth I am not knocking anyone in offering my view as to how I prefer to change my oil. It is only my opinion and reason why. I even encouraged the OP to do more research on which pump to buy..
I stopped reading after the second paragraph. The front definatly has struts. The w163 uses struts and torsion bars in the front for suspension and struts with springs around them in the rear.



Also someone else mentioned that the m113 amg engine has 2 sumps and must be drained from the bottom. Do you have any info to back that? I've never heard that before and have never seen 2 sumps on my ml55. There is an upper and lower part of the oil pan but the dip stick goes to the lowest part and the upper part drains right into the lower end... not sure if it's different somehow on the supercharged amg engines but I highly doubt it because that would end up having to be a completely different engine than a m113
 

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Brettrieh101

Believe whatever you would like,

Sorry I will be putting shocks on the front of our 2004 ml 350 since it uses shocks in the front with a torsion spring and struts in the rear with a coil spring. Same with our 03 ml500.

KYB 349226 excel g gas shock.

KYB, Bilstein, Sachs, Monroe, Gaberial all list the front as a shock -absorber.
 

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from my post on the W211 forum section: Thank you all for educating me to the topside extraction. I ordered an extractor from www.tooldiscounter.com that held 8.8 qts. I used it on Saturday and loved the ease and results. I was able to extract over the 8qt amount and then pump it ALL back into the empty jugs without any spillage. This is the method for me from now on. This one extracts and dispenses all in one.
Here is the unit I ordered

Quantity Part Number Description Unit Price Ext. Price
1 MIT7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus, 2.3 GAL $78.00 $78.00
Total: $78.00

has 3 various diameter dipstick hoses and a Mityvac hose with rubber grommet that the dipstick hose connects to.
 

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Also someone else mentioned that the m113 amg engine has 2 sumps and must be drained from the bottom. Do you have any info to back that? I've never heard that before and have never seen 2 sumps on my ml55. There is an upper and lower part of the oil pan but the dip stick goes to the lowest part and the upper part drains right into the lower end
On certain models (such as the W203 C55), the pan straddles the suspension and thus has two drains. Check WIS - it will show you. I assume that on the W163 the engine sits high enough not to need this "saddle" pan.


... not sure if it's different somehow on the supercharged amg engines but I highly doubt it because that would end up having to be a completely different engine than a m113
Nope, they are the same M113 engines, though with minor external casting differences to accommodate different oil pan, bell housings and belt-driven accessories based on the specific chassis they are installed into.
 
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