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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi

Is there a tool that comes with ML to remove the tyre (for the lug bolts etc)? Does it need a torque wrench to be put back on? Is there a tool in the toolbox..some where ...maybe near the spare type..

Thanks,.
 

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Premium Member
02 ML320 06 ML500
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17,101 Posts
VOIDY, if you intend to use the jack to do brakes, that is a very bad idea. Find someone who has a floor jack.

I'm including the location of where the jack and wrench are, but only in case of a flat; again, it is not to be used to do brakes.
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I do have the floor jack (3 ton) and two jack stands :)

I was able to get the front wheel off... now i have ot figure out how to get the calipers off

THe online video does not really tell you how?

Does the brake fluid cap need to be removed during this process? ANd it is the one shown below right?

How to get the calipers and brake sensor pin off?
 

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once you have the wheel off, there are two bolts on the back of the caliper, Torx 40 size, just unscrew them they are covered in rubber.

Once you take those off, use a mallet and take the caliper off.

This is something I didn't know about, only the driver side has a sensor, so if you purchased extras like I did, return them.
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
There are a total of 8 T40s on the caliper..should all of these be removed to take the caliper?

The full caliper assembly is held in place by two large hex bolts (only one can be seen below - marked by circle) .. should these be opened as well?
 

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2002 ML55 AMG, 2005 Chrysler Crossfire Coupe Limited, 1999 C280
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4,714 Posts
I believe that we Forum members sometimes take DIY too far.

You are patently not adept at changing brakes on this truck.

I need not tell you just how important properly functioning brakes are on any vehicle.

WHY not just take it to a professional?
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks 43sqd so much for the guides...they are the perfect match.


btw, THis is my first brake job and I want to be extra careful so that I dont mess anything up. My choice was to either ask dumb questions and figure it out before doing it or just do it. I guess I choose to ask the dumb questions and learn before I do anything. I have not done anything except take the wheel off and spray some lubricant for now.. I have read almost all of the brake jobs multiple times and most of them were not so difficult. Looks like it is different for each VIN. Going to the stealerships was out as they quoted me > $1000 dollars.
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have the front driver side done, and it went very smooth. Few things to take note:
1. Torque wrench is available at rent at autozone or Orielys
2. The large hex bolts that hold the caliper need a 13/16 - no play or 7/8 - little play socket.
3. Spraying the WD40 and leaving it overnight ... helped me get the rotor off with very little banging.
4. No brake fluid leaked during this job... thanks to 43 advise to leave the brake hose :)
5. The passenger should go quicker and will take pics when doing that one..

I lost one lug nut and put it back with just one..will put it back on once i find it ... think that is ok?
 

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1999 ML320 Elegance, BMW R1150RT, SAAB 9-3
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282 Posts
some suggestions:

re; 13/16 - no play or 7/8
get some metric tools.

wd-40 is not very good - you will find life easier with something stronger - pb blaster, liquid wrench etc.

lost a bolt?
learn good work habits- carefully put fasteners and parts aside in proper sequence and orientation. somethings can be reassembled more than one way but there is only one correct way - the incorrect ways cause all kinds of problems later.

if not done in a while this would be a good time to refresh (i.e flush with new) brake fluid. every 24 months is optimum.

safety above all.

good luck :thumbsup:
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
OK..finished both the sides ...but now I cannot turn the ignition on ...the steering seems to have locked up.. anyone know how to fix it. The steering was turned slightly by 30 degrees when I was getting the wheels back on and tightening the caliper bolt..could that have caused the lock up?

Please help..
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
nevermind, just wiggled the power steering up and down and was able to start it fine..

Braking works great and the total cost was around $300 , (100 rotors, 50 pads and 150 tools)
 

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2007 BMW X3
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472 Posts
Advice

Did you replace the rotors? If so, I hope you cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner. They need to be sprayed with copius amounts of brake cleaner.

If this is not done the protective coating on the rotors will make your brake pads squeak horribly. :thumbsup:
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
yes, i have finished the rotors
no i have not sprayed brake cleaner..., i have not heard any squeling in my test drive. Can it sprayed with the wheels on?

thx
 

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Purple Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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22,126 Posts
It will be hard to get both sides with the backing plate in place, but it can be accomplished.
 

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2004 ml500
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I have been driving all day and did not hear any squels or squeaks ..should i even bother.. I did put the anti squel paste to the edges of the pads during install..
 

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2001 ML430 Sport bought in very nice shape despite 156K miles in August 2010
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540 Posts
The rotors have a light coating of cosmolene to prevent rust while they are sitting on the shelf. Its best to remove this with brake cleaner and a paper towel when installing them. Now that they are on, just get the brakes nice and hot once or twice and the coating will be gone. Find a quiet road, cruise at say 35-40mph, left foot brake no harder than you'd normally brake and at the same time apply more throttle to keep the cruising speed at 35 -40. Count 10 seconds. Repeat no more than one more time. Done.
 
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