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2005 SL 500 R230
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From what I can see, the lower control arm bushings are hydraulic but the castor arm bushes are not. I've just done my castor arms, but replaced the whole arm as one of the ball joint boots was shot.

I bought this to do the LCA bushings but haven't done them yet:


I am concerned that I won't be able to separate the strut ball joint from the lower control arm without damaging the strut ball joint boot. How did you get your struts off without damaging the boot? I have a ball joint removal tool.
 

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2005 SL 500 R230
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I just ordered all the parts to do mine. All lower control arms and Upper control arms bushings. Upper and lower ball joints. Along with inner and outer tie rod ends. I also was looking into replacing the strut ball joints but have not found a replacement part. damaging the boot is a concern. This tool might be the answer. even if I have to grind it down a little. Or maybe the old school of threading on the nut and pounding it out.
New Universal Auto 19mm Ball Joint Separator Remover Removal Tool | eBay


I have that and will try it first. One of my castor arms was stuck really tight - the other one just popped off, so I'm of course worried one or both of my struts is going to be on really tight. Are the ball joint boots available and replaceable? It would be good to have some on hand in advance if anyone knows if replacements exist.
 

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I will get under, measure them and order spare boots to have on hand before I do the job.

The Car Wizard replaced his strut ball joints at

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Possibly the V12s wear the strut ball joints more quickly due to the extra mass loading.
 

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I'll get down there soon and give it a go. I have the same tool but the issue I found with the castor arms is that it's a very awkward angle in there to hit it with a hammer.

As I found out the way to use the ball joint splitter is to screw it up pretty tight then give it a bang with a hammer, right above where the tool arm presses on the ball joint thread. If the ball joint is stuck pretty tight then just compressing the tool won't dislodge it - you have to combine the tension of the tool with the old 'gentle persuader' to free it. I don't want to put any heat on the LCA for fear of burning up the boot.
 

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That was my original concern.

Grinding down the fork may well weaken it to the point where it cracks or bends before the ball joint cracks loose. I'll look around for a thinner one like Rodney's.
 

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I'll get in there again soon and have a poke around. Maybe the cheap tool I bought will work OK...

It's too cold here to work on my car at the moment.
 
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