[Wyo_25]

I got a carfax on a car that I am looking at purchasing and it has a 'not actual mileage' carfax/title. It is local, so I'll be able to drive it and check it over.

How concerned should I be with this car based the odometer issue? I'm not terribly excited about the mileage issue, but as you can see from the report if the odometer was 'tampered' with it is likely only a 20-25k issue, not a 50k issue.

Thoughts?

Screenshot of the carfax and mileage reported below:

 

[sbaert]

I think the bigger issue is why the car sat still for 3 full years between 1998-2001 right after this odometer "issue". That smells really fishy to me.

Apart from that, as with any MB, it's all about service records, more service records, and even more service records. The miles are a just a number, it's how those miles were put on that counts.

But the service records are probably going to shed some light or reveal what was what with the odometer.

 

[dick rockwood]

Just be sure to do your own due diligence, if you like the car, regardless of "actual" mileage; do your own thorough checks of the car's systems, get an inspection, etc. If you're still wanting to go for it, be sure any sales price reflects the car's TMU or true mileage unknown. Otherwise, plenty of fish in the sea.

 

[TexFinn]

You are looking at a 26+ year old MB. CarFax is not the thing to rely on anything. Records and thorough inspection are the ones you need to be concerned about.

 

[Wyo_25]

Thanks for all the comments.

I won't mark it off the list on the mileage issue alone.

We'll see what they have for records. I doubt they will have anything and i'll have to get a really good deal to even consider it, but you never know.

Definitely will be doing a full check when i see it tomorrow. At least I know the systems really well from working on my 300E and the cost for parts for that matter...

Cheers on the help.

 

[tuttebenne]

Considering what you have found through the Carfax and the mileage related title issue, I would add a very close inspection to identify crash damage. This might explain the car being laid up for so long. You might be able to shrug off 20 or 30k extra miles but a car with a crash history is much worse. Check the front and rear frame rails for any sign of kinks or repairs. Hopefully you have some skill in this area. If not, bring along someone who does.

 

[dbamber]

Carfax is a great selling aid. A VMI, and a PPI done by a competent person will be your best friend.

 

[dick rockwood]

Over many years of working in marketing for Manheim (the worlds largest wholesale auto auction), including problems personally, have found errors with CARFAX. I like to have one run, but I take it with a grain of salt. Well, until it hurts you in the wallet. Could have once.

Once owned a 94 Trans Am GT convertible, one of only a few hundred cars. Special options, first off the line, etc. Specialist car. Low, low mileage. Not a mainstream popular car, everyone goes for or knows about the Anniversary additions but that's thousands of cars. Lots more money too because less mainstream, fewer people know about them. Same for E300 Diesels, never valued correctly on kbb. Anyway, report pulled when I bought it didn't match the report pulled when I sold it showing possible rollback. Prolly a mistake. Could have cost me big bucks though and should have been able to take them up on their $5,000 odo guaranty, nevertheless, dealer buyer didn't care and I made out okay without having to chase CARFAX.

It's a tool but you've got to question its accuracy and take everything into consideration. I always pull a report but take it with a grain of salt.

 

[Real1shepherd]

My latest TE had a CarFax. It shows no accidents, but my ex thinks she's sees some repaint body stuff on one side. I can't see it....but she's never been wrong on body work....even turned a few used car dealers red in the face.

Ultimately, I'm the one who lives with the car and I can't see it.

In WA, you don't have to put the mileage in a title transfer after 100,000 miles. So if CarFax is pulling info off of WA car registrations for cars over 100,000 miles it won't be correct.

Kevin

 

[dick rockwood]

I've seen major franchises spot painting brand new cars before hitting the lot after transport... even brand new zero mileage cars get banged up before purchase.

I like to think I'm pretty good and I should be for all my experience but I almost always find paintwork or damage long after ownership I wasn't initially aware of. You can't pull every pane or lift every bolt.

Most new cars have work before they hit the lot. Volvo (and all manner of Ford, including Jaguar in those days) used to offload and marshal at our Orlando rail head; they'd just shoot the new cars in the lot. No booth or nothing. Lol Brand new cars.

 

[Real1shepherd]

No booth or nothing. Lol Brand new cars.

Wow, I could have gone all week without knowing that one...lol.

I do know of a top line S class MB that fell off a car carrier somehow....was taken to the dealer, then off to a frame shop and a full repaint....sold as a NEW car. Wouldn't you have liked to the proud owner of that baby?!

Kevin

 

[sbaert]

Those are all the reasons why a independent PPI is the best money ever spent.

The seller(s) can hide flaws, but they can't hide paint thickness

FWIW, the last "brand new" car I ever bought was a 1995 Mustang GT right before the 5.0 Liter V8 was replaced. I didn't even bother looking at the remaining models in the row.

I went straight to the back where they had just received their last batch, and picked that one. The dealer wanted to charge me a "prep charge". My @ss. I told them I'd take it as it sits if need be and that they're not the only Ford dealer in the state.

 

[tuttebenne]

CarFax will only show an accident if an insurance company or some other reporting agency posts it as an event. If the accident wasn't claimed on insurance or a report issued, there won't be anything on CarFax. They aren't "all knowing". As mentioned by sbaert a PPI is the best information source.

 

[TexFinn]

The seller(s) can hide flaws, but they can't hide paint thickness

Paint thickness gauge is one of the best tools I've ever purchased. :thumbsup:

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah, I knew that if the accident wasn't an event claim, it wouldn't show up on CarFax. However, I don't know many people that pay out of pocket for accident damage.....which these days starts at about $1,500 and quickly totals our cars.

Tell me more about paint thickness gauges....?

Kevin

 

[dick rockwood]

There's always that. I don't even carry collision on the 124 anymore, not when they'd junk it out for the deductible, doesn't make sense. Just beef up the other coverage. Last several fender bender crack ups I've been self insured anyway. KBB totally gets it wrong on the diesels and that's what insurance companies generally look to.

I've seen dealers/buyers using paint gauges but that's really for amateurs if you really know what you're looking for. I can find paint work on just about any car. And so can you with a little training.

 

[sbaert]

...
Tell me more about paint thickness gauges....?

Kevin

It's basically a mini electronic radar that bounces a signal though the paint and compares it to the signal that is reflected.

Here is an example
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CG204...123969&sr=8-17&keywords=paint+thickness+gauge

In a nutshell, up to 200 micro meters indicates first lacquer. 200-300 second lacquer, 300-500 second lacquer and bondo work, and anything beyond 500 they're basically spreading peanut butter and trying to make it look good with some fancy jelly a.k.a. paint

However, there are other ways too. The old fashioned magnet works fairly good especially for picking up bondo work, but the magnet does not work on anything other than steel so it is becoming the cassette tape in the room.

What I like to do is put a "suspect" car in a very blightly but evenly light room, preferably by FL lights and evaluate the vehicles from all angles. Paintwork usually always leaves some traces of orange peel, especially where they blended into undamaged areas.

 

[TexFinn]

I have the magnetic gauge. Obviously doesn't work on fiberglass, aluminum etc., but worked great for me so far. I mostly use it to gauge the amount of bondo in classic cars I'm dealing with fairly frequently.

Saved from making a mistake quite a few times already.

PRO GAUGE II

 

[Real1shepherd]

There's always that. I don't even carry collision on the 124 anymore, not when they'd junk it out for the deductible, doesn't make sense. Just beef up the other coverage. Last several fender bender crack ups I've been self insured anyway. KBB totally gets it wrong on the diesels and that's what insurance companies generally look to.

I've seen dealers/buyers using paint gauges but that's really for amateurs if you really know what you're looking for. I can find paint work on just about any car. And so can you with a little training.

Agreed. The insurance companies immediately get their skirts in a bunch when we have an accident with these old cars. The first thing they are instructed to do is total the vehicle and offer you an amount. They usually take the KBB, NADA and average the two lowest value amounts...usually right at wholesale or a little above. Then the fight is on, although given a lot of info thrown at them from eBay sales etc, they relinquish a bit.

I don't carry collision anymore...after so many yrs you've paid for the car...ridiculous.

Kevin

 

[betapi]

The Carfax issue is in reported mileage. See 2/21/96 - 95k miles. Then 5/8/98 - 72K miles. I would want an explanation - and it could be as simple as someone recording the odo incorrectly, but I don't think that pertains here...