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Need to replace lower timing chain rails necessitating removal of timing cover. Manual section 1-210 says the oil pump must be removed. This would seem to require removing the pan. Other sources have said that the pan can be loosened enough to remove the timing cover.

The car has a one-piece pan. Appears to me that with a one-piece pan, the entire pan must be removed.

Anyone with direct experience to provide guidance?
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
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Need to replace lower timing chain rails necessitating removal of timing cover. Manual section 1-210 says the oil pump must be removed. This would seem to require removing the pan. Other sources have said that the pan can be loosened enough to remove the timing cover.

The car has a one-piece pan. Appears to me that with a one-piece pan, the entire pan must be removed.

Anyone with direct experience to provide guidance?
I agree, this is probably lifted from the W116/117 engine manual, which slants to the installation of these engines in W126 trim. I had to do it, with the engine out and pan removed.
 

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I was crossing the Woodward Wilson bridge....Wait a minute that's Dig's story.

I was following the instructions in the Haynes Manual. Oil Pan front bolts removed.. Instruction #19 "Remove timing housing cover while while pulling the oil pump away from the crank shaft sprocket." That sounds easy I thought. When it did not slide off I tried prying and cracked the TC cover.

All this was before I found this forum. My advice. Either pull the engine/trans. or drop the subframe. You really need to remove the oil pan to remove the oil pump and the TC cover.
 

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I did it by myself and removed the subframe. Dropped the engine/trans out the bottom. I was afraid to try going out the top without help. Probably better to go out the top with a helper.

Removing the TC cover without damaging the head gasket is probably impossible. I really don't see a problem with this because I resealed the area with RTV. There is no oil pressure or compression there. I was dealing with new head gaskets when I removed the TC cover, for the second time to realign the dist. drive gear.
 

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I wish.
I used a combination of cherry picker (hyd. eng. hoist) two MC/ATV jacks, floor jacks, and a few home made things. I had about 17' clearance above so clearance was not a problem.
 

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My guys managed to do it on my 84 380 w/o pulling the engine. They got the cover off with the oil pan completely out, in which was found half of a broken guide. I wasn't there to observe. They did destroy the front seal doing it but that was easily replaced. I also got some tiny new O-rings for it and then they just painted on a gasket/seal when reinstalling the tc.
 

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progress has been minimal since last update, as dad has been extremely busy with work, and life. I just returned from the frozen north(MN) and will be heading to his garage tomorrow morning.

I have everything off the front of the motor, and the subframe is ready to be dropped after the removal of the four mounting bolts, and the brake lines.

After fiddling around with the engine support bar, and finding no good place to set the "pads" that sit on the inner fenders and support the bar, Dad did spend some time making up some plywood/oak strip supports that sit on the inner fender, while avoiding all the cables, hoses, and various supports, essentially building up the inner fender until a nice wide, flat, sturdy surface was achieved.

I am going over to his garage tomorrow morning to remove the subframe, my plan is to simply put a large strap around the engine, oil pan and all, then remove the subframe. at which point the motor mounts will be much more accessible, then i will use some heavy ratchet straps and support it from the motor mounts, freeing up the oil pan.

I will post some pictures most likely tomorrow evening.
 
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