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1975 450SL
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello: I am starting to put the parts together for timing chain replacement this winter on 1975 450Sl has just over 100,000 miles. What parts should be replaced at this time? Should I pull off the cover and replace all related parts or just those I can reach from the top without cover removal. car has been well maintained with oil and filter changes every 2000 miles.
Thanks
 

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1984 500SEC Euro: Midnight Blue w/ Cream Interior
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236 Posts
First, I would take off the valve covers just to have a look.

Check on the condition of the upper guide rails. If one is broken then obviously it needs immediate attention. But overall you can see how dark they are, any grooves left by the chain, etc.

When you're there you can line up the timing marks on the camshafts and see how much the timing chain has actually stretched.

If the car has been very well maintained, you may find that the situation isn't that bad yet. The motor in my w126 had 146k before this job. The guide rails had a very slight groove in them from the chain, but were very strong. I tried to snap one with my hands after removing it and it was hard as a rock. I replaced everything though because the chain had stretched into the danger zone.

It is most common for the upper guide rails to be changed only. The lower guide rails are less prone to breaking. So you'd be looking at a new tensioner, chain, and the upper guide rails to give you peace of mind right now.

If you need instructions for the job, send me a PM

Best of luck
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,355 Posts
If you need instructions for the job, send me a PM

Best of luck
Another alternative is to look at the entire procedure in the EGv107 complete with pictures and pitfalls that other have experienced.:thumbsup:
 

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1972 350SL
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441 Posts
You can see the passenger side lower guide rail after the tensioner, upper rail, chain and sprocket has been removed. Get plenty of light and at least look at it.

My 72 had deep grooves and once removed was easy to break. I suspect a lot has to do with age, accumulated heat exposure, and maintenance more than miles.
 

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Registered
1987 560SL, 2000 Kawasaki W650
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1,022 Posts
I did this job earlier this year on my 87 560SL:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1651847-560sl-timing-chain-project-underway.html

I did the oil tube fittings, chain, upper chain guides, tensioner, tensioner guide rail, etc. I figured while I was in there might as well get it done.

One thing I would have done differently is to start with a better guide pin removal tool. The cheaper "tubes and bolts" version resulted in my having to drive out and retap after the bolts broke off while trying to pull some recalcitrant pins. See my posts about those.
 

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1975 450SL
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Loader

I did this job earlier this year on my 87 560SL:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1651847-560sl-timing-chain-project-underway.html

I did the oil tube fittings, chain, upper chain guides, tensioner, tensioner guide rail, etc. I figured while I was in there might as well get it done.

One thing I would have done differently is to start with a better guide pin removal tool. The cheaper "tubes and bolts" version resulted in my having to drive out and retap after the bolts broke off while trying to pull some recalcitrant pins. See my posts about those.
Therling, in your post a loader was talked about, I ordered a pin puller but can not find a loader, is this the technical name or is there another? Thanks
 

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Outstanding Contributor
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500se+500slAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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22,568 Posts
I don't know crap about the timing chain replacement, but I did it once, an my uninformed opinion is that I would prefer the vice grip method to pulling out the head bolts taking the chance of having a huge job comparatively. I just don't see the benefit of the tool. It looks like a tool to create false confidence. Everyone doing the job needs to understand that it is pretty easy for the new chain side to slip off the cam sprocket. I also recommend doing the job with the tensioner at least partly in to remove the slop from the chain.

But keep in mind I have only done this once. Others have done it many more times.

But by the time you get started, before you know it, the box has no more chain in it.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,526 Posts
Having tried both methods, I think the loader is easier and safer for loading. The chain cannot come off the sprocket while the loader is attached. Whichever method you use, DO NOT lose control of the chain like I did.
However, if you need to adjust the timing position on the passenger side sprocket teeth, it would still be necessary for you to use the vise grip method as the loader will not allow you to change teeth.
 

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Premium Member
1975 450SL
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2,440 Posts
I would second the vice-grips method. I really don't like the idea of disturbing a head bolt that has been in one place for so long, unless I am going to be doing all of them, and probably replacing them as well. I'm also 'cheap'. Three Harbor Freight 5in vice grips are a lot less expensive, and can be useful again; you just have to be careful. Make sure only one vice grip is removed at a time, leaving the other two locked in place.

Good luck,
Scott
 

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It Is What It Is, Dude
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22,841 Posts
.



Yes.


The subframe has to come out to facilitate removing the oil pan to allow unbolting the oil pump.


Then you can pull the timing cover.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,355 Posts
And no.
The other option is to pull the engine.
 

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Registered
1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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506 Posts
ugh, this website is a love hate relationship. The info is great but its making my to do list overwhelming ! Just picked up a 74 450sl with 119k on it, i guess i better do this but i dont really want to lol
 
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