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Discussion Starter #1
supposedly there is only 190k on this engine, timing chain snapped doing 55 on the way to work. The oil pan gasket also leaked like crazy when that happened. Drove this car for almost a year and maintained it regularly and never drove it too hard. I took off the valve cover and the cam and springs look normal to the eye.

Would I be able to use anything here to swap out, assuming valves/etc are bent?-> Mercedes-Benz 240d Cylinder Head | Used Auto Parts

Basically looking for any alternative to swapping the engine, if it is fixable for less than 1000 that would be good. Or best just to sell it needing an engine but everything else is in good shape? New rear brakes/calipers, 60,000 left on tires, replaced master/slave clutch cylinders. Please help! -Taylor
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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Find an early, or not too late, 5 cyl diesel engine and swap it in.
 

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1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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1,830 Posts
I don't know about the complete diesel engine, check the W123 forum a little farther down the main forum index.
 

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2001 Volvo V40
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First get a (free) subscription to the EPC:

EPC-net Online

so you know which part numbers will fit your engine.

Get a hold of the FSM. Not all engine heads of the OM615/OM616 are interchangeable. If the head is planed, the depth of the prechambers might need to be adjusted. Also the timing might need to be adjusted with a woodruff key.

Why not repair the head? Replace the valves which are bent, replace valve guides if necessary and repair the valve seats if necessary. You probably need a machine shop for this.

Is the vacuum pump still OK? If a vacuum pump fails, it often causes a broken chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
are the links above^^^ the valves i need/how much machining would it take? Would I have to make everything from scratch?

Yes now it is looking like i might just have to do a valve/chain overhaul, the camshaft is intact and everything looks normal when I take off the valve cover.

Never thought about the vacuum pump, although the brake booster seems to continue to 'leak' into the floor panel little by little. I had to pull out the original floormats and insulation when I bought it, prev owner must have had no idea it was leaking for a while.. The brakes have always worked consistently since I replaced the rear set but when on an incline the last few months I have needed to press extra hard to keep from slipping backwards. I didnt know the booster would affect the engine.. so maybe that was the cause? Any physical signs to look for to show if vacuum pump is bad?

Thanks for the EPC link
 
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