timing chain replacement interval
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Timing chain is an internal component and should not be changed unless the engine goes bad....You have to dismantle the engine to change it. It should not wear under normal use...just like you would not change the pistons as a maintenance job....The rubber serpentine belt is on the outside and should still be fine for a few more years..(you can check it for cracks anytime though...)
Wait until ~ 400,000 kms to think about that timing chain work..
Wait until ~ 400,000 kms to think about that timing chain work..
Yeah, timing chain doesn't have a change interval. It's a car life time item ( aka warranty period). You change the timing chain when it's starts rattling. You can notice this noise on cold starts. Always when you replace the timing chain Buy the OEM raplacment set. ( Mercedes parts)
It usually lasts 300-400k km on a B class. / (Diesel) Yeah it's not like in old mercedes cars where it lasts for at least 800k km. Alo i think a good practice when doing the chain job to change the water pump, thermostat and a clutch job. ( cause engine is out)
Saying this, it's a pretty expensive job.
It usually lasts 300-400k km on a B class. / (Diesel) Yeah it's not like in old mercedes cars where it lasts for at least 800k km. Alo i think a good practice when doing the chain job to change the water pump, thermostat and a clutch job. ( cause engine is out)
Saying this, it's a pretty expensive job.
Timing chain will need checking/replacing if you encounter loud rattle when starting the engine, especially when cold.
Also stretched timing chain makes a specific sound when the engine is running and warm. Sounds like a kind of a mill.
In extreme cases you'll have EML on with fault code P0016, because the signals from the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and not correlated. You might also notice the engine cranks a bit longer before firing.
Timing chain tend to stretch in certain models more than others, and also depending on frequency of maintenance.
Please see this video of my B200 Turbo. It's done only 73k miles.
https://www.facebook.com/aclassForrera/videos/1669639303135169/?t=3
After replacing the timing chain on this B200 the engine fires up a lot quicker and runs a lot quieter and smoother.
The EML disappeared even before I attempted to clear it.
Also stretched timing chain makes a specific sound when the engine is running and warm. Sounds like a kind of a mill.
In extreme cases you'll have EML on with fault code P0016, because the signals from the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and not correlated. You might also notice the engine cranks a bit longer before firing.
Timing chain tend to stretch in certain models more than others, and also depending on frequency of maintenance.
Please see this video of my B200 Turbo. It's done only 73k miles.
https://www.facebook.com/aclassForrera/videos/1669639303135169/?t=3
After replacing the timing chain on this B200 the engine fires up a lot quicker and runs a lot quieter and smoother.
The EML disappeared even before I attempted to clear it.
After it starts giving a misfire code, there is a big change of timing chain failing. This will end up with valves smashing into pistons. And that means a full engine rebuild. It's pretty much catastrophic.
So if you notice the noise, and misfire codes change the chain ASAP cause it can break.
Check the topic of BMW N47 Engine, it has timing chain issues. BMW is the same shit as Mercedes.
I'm confused right now. my engine works a bit noisy, if I don't run it 2-3 days it makes a grinding sound 1-2 seconds after first run. I think it is related to the poor lubrication. Are there any ways to check timing chain condition without tearing apart the engine? Is it possible diagnose it from the sound of engine if I record and upload here. And I wrote here before I feel a light vibration while the car is in idle.
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Hi i got told by our garage that its quite normal for it to rattle for a couple of seconds on a cold morning.
The main thing is that the rattle stops after a couple of seconds is this true?.
^ My R350 (gasoline) has had a rattling timing chain on start for the last 100,000 miles. It usually goes away after a few seconds. Apparently the timing chain tensioner is hydraulically operated off engine oil pressure. In "the good old days" they used to fit a check valve in the oil feed to the tensioner so that it didn't back off when the engine stopped. Some accountant type decided that was too expensive and it got deleted.
Well on R350 is way to expensive of a job.
And ofc. They want to earn money on service. They will make the chain last for min 3 yrs and 100 000 km ( warranty ) and after that they start earning fat bucks.
And its true, because you engine oil settles on the bottom and when the engine is off the oil pressure goes down.
And ofc. They want to earn money on service. They will make the chain last for min 3 yrs and 100 000 km ( warranty ) and after that they start earning fat bucks.
And its true, because you engine oil settles on the bottom and when the engine is off the oil pressure goes down.
If t's Mercedes it's going to be expensive, regardless of which Mercedes. The R350 I have, of course, benefits from also having THREE timing chains (one master then one to each cylinder bank) to worry about, and of course you would only do all three at once.
I think the biggest PITA comes from the variable valve timing and the need to lock the camshafts and re-index them properly as you do the job. Not like the old days of just lining up the top dead center mark on the crankshaft pulley, doing likewise on the camshaft pulley / pullies and away you go.
And if I were you I would avoid using any replacement chain that uses any kind of rivet link, where the idea is you split the old chain, attach the new on to one end, pull it around, and rivet link the two ends of the new one together. Either they don't get pulled around right, or the rivet link gets dropped into the engine, or the rivet link doesn't get riveted right, or it breaks in service.
Since the timing chain is on the end of the crankshaft, not in the middle like on some motorcycles, it's not that bad of a job, just decide which kid you want to sell for medical research...
I think the biggest PITA comes from the variable valve timing and the need to lock the camshafts and re-index them properly as you do the job. Not like the old days of just lining up the top dead center mark on the crankshaft pulley, doing likewise on the camshaft pulley / pullies and away you go.
And if I were you I would avoid using any replacement chain that uses any kind of rivet link, where the idea is you split the old chain, attach the new on to one end, pull it around, and rivet link the two ends of the new one together. Either they don't get pulled around right, or the rivet link gets dropped into the engine, or the rivet link doesn't get riveted right, or it breaks in service.
Since the timing chain is on the end of the crankshaft, not in the middle like on some motorcycles, it's not that bad of a job, just decide which kid you want to sell for medical research...
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2 Posts
Thanks is really useful. Can I ask, when you refer to ‘older styles’ needing replacing at 800km, what age are you talking? I’m looking to buy a 2008 Vito 120 cdi with 175,000km on the clock. Should I have alarm bells? Thanks!
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