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2017 Ram EcoDiesel, 2014 GLK 350, 2013 BMW R1200GS KC
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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1988 560SL with 110000 miles on it, and not knowing the history, I took both valve covers off (what a "fun" job).

Once off, I noticed that the chain was loose on both cam sprockets towards the inside of the engine. Once I turned the engine over (1 1/2 turns) to line up the timing marks the chain was tight...good. There are NO marks, indicating the chain slapping or rubbing against the cylinder heads. Like I said, it was tight after turning the engine over.

Looking at the pictures, should I replace the four upper guides and the tensioner? I looked at the cam sprockets and they look OK to me. When I had the marks lined up, the pointer at the crank was about 7-8 dgrees off.

How about the plastic connectors and the cam oiler tubes? Should they be replaced and is there a kit with all the plastic pieces available. The connectors and guides are discolered to different degrees.

What, if anything should be replaced here?

Last question, what is the "butchered up" aluminum dome infront of the fuel injection head?

One thing I noticed, I never seen an engine that clean on the inside.

Thank you for any advice/input,

Hans
 

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'85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
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That's a tough one, I'm not sure what I would do. The guides really look new and , if I'm not mistaken, the sprockets look like the aftermarket SWAG ones. What doesn't seem right is the 7-8 degrees of slop in the timing.
You may want to go back and verify that you have the right cam marks as they are (IMO) a bit tricky to get right.

You can get a set of new oiler tubes at AZ autohaus (or other online shops ) very cheaply.

Very clean looking engine. Can you tell if it still has the original chain ( there would be no removable link if it was original)?
 

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1984 380SL
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Your guides look fine, still showing a lot of white. The sprockets seem a bit "pointy" indicating some wear but not bad. The butchered up thing looks like the air/fuel mixture screw where the plug was removed, maybe the hard way.
 

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'71 250, '78 450SLC 5.0, '78 450SL, '81 380SLC 5.6, '89 260E, '15 Kia Sorento
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I agree, the engine looks very clean and the guides look to have been replaced or who ever owned the car was a fanatic with oil changes. Either way it is a good sign for you. I would look on the back side of one of the sprockets and see it they are factory or not. I am unsure from the pictures if your sprockets are too worn or not. Some of the other guys are better at that than I, but if in doubt order a couple from AutohausAZ and replace them. The are only about $20 each and that may take up the 7-8 degrees you are off. Oiler tube connectors ran me about $6 a side from the Classic Center. Keep us posted.
 

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1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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Guides are white when new so those are old.

The butchered area is the air fuel mixture adjustment screw. It is in a small tower that someone used a grinder on. There is a plug that has to be removed to access the screw. A grinder is not the right tool to do this.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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Your guides look fine, still showing a lot of white. The sprockets seem a bit "pointy" indicating some wear but not bad. The butchered up thing looks like the air/fuel mixture screw where the plug was removed, maybe the hard way.
I agree, the engine looks very clean and the guides look to have been replaced or who ever owned the car was a fanatic with oil changes. Either way it is a good sign for you. I would look on the back side of one of the sprockets and see it they are factory or not. I am unsure from the pictures if your sprockets are too worn or not. Some of the other guys are better at that than I, but if in doubt order a couple from AutohausAZ and replace them. The are only about $20 each and that may take up the 7-8 degrees you are off. Oiler tube connectors ran me about $6 a side from the Classic Center. Keep us posted.
What pictures are you looking at? I see guides that are dark brown and one that is yellow.
 

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When in doubt replace them. Hard to put a price tag on "peace of mind". I would suggest going OEM with the new parts. Especially the tensioner. Do a Google search on Trademotion and Mercedes. OEM parts can be bought much cheaper than going through a MB dealer.
 

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2017 Ram EcoDiesel, 2014 GLK 350, 2013 BMW R1200GS KC
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Parts

I checked the Trademotion website, they list two tensioners (one for around 40.00 the other one about 20.00 more), how do I know what I need.

They don't have a complete tensioner rail that I can see. Also, I couldn't find the plastic connectors for the cam oiler tubes. Will they take phone orders so I get the right stuff the first time?

I think I will replace the guides, two of them are pretty dark brown, although there are no cracks. I also will replace te tensioner and cam sprockets.

I checked on AutohausAZ, they sell Febi stuff. If I understand this right, Febi is a division of Bilstein, another good German company.

Additional information:

I just looked at the sprockets, they have a MB part number, so I say they are probably the original ones. Somebody was defintily in there before because there are white paint marks on both sprockets.

Sorry for being so long winded, just trying to bgive all the details!

Hans
 

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'85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
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Just checked AZAH and they seem to be out of stock on the oiler fittings. Also, as you said, can't find the rail.

Yeah, if you have any brown plastic, get it out of there.

The FEBI tensioner is German ( at least the one I bought 2 years ago was). There are reports of it failing early , so YMMV. I did not use mine yet as the MB one that's in there seems to be working fine (knock wood)

You might try looking at Pelican Parts for some of the parts. I think I bought the chain and perhaps the cover for the rail ( you can just do that instead of replacing it) from Pelican.
 

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450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro
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What pictures are you looking at? I see guides that are dark brown and one that is yellow.
True. That one on the top in this picture certainly isn't white. I am not familiar with color-blindness that confuses brown and white. :)

 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Another sprocket question?

When replacing the cam sprockets, is there enough room to slide the sprocket off the cam while the chain is still on the sprocket?

I guess what Iam asking, is there enough room between the chai and the head casting and side play in the chains to do that or do I have to move the cam shaft in it's bearings towards the firewall?

Thanks again for all the help around here!
 

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There is enough room to slip the sprocket off without disturbing the camshaft.



Fish
 

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'71 250, '78 450SLC 5.0, '78 450SL, '81 380SLC 5.6, '89 260E, '15 Kia Sorento
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I clearly missed the dark maroon colored guides when I looked at the pics initially. Sorry about that. It seems someone replaced some guides and not others. When I replaced mine they were all very dark so I doubt you would have some light and some dark that were all installed at the same time. Anyway, the guides and oiler tube kits are pretty inexpensive, about $6 each from the Classic Center.
 

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Mark the old sprocket and chain before removing the sprocket.

When you remove the sprocket, keep tension on the chain. Maybe use a bungee cord hung from the ceiling of your garage.

Put the old and new sprockets side-by-side noting where the key slot is located. Transfer the mark from the old sprocket to the new one.

Make sure you are not putting the new sprocket on backwards.

Put the new sprocket on assuring that the mark on the chain matches the mark on the sprocket.

I learned all this just from reading the follies of other members that caused them to remove all the valve springs and reset all timing marks to TDC, which really increases the complexity of the job.

Sprockets don't always new to be replaced, but it is advisable to replace the cam sprockets since they are "easy" and not hardened like the lower timing sprockets.

I replaced my timing chain first, and them measured the chain "stretch". Since I had no "stretch" I did not replace my sprockets. My 73 has only 70k miles though too.

Tensioner replacement with Mercedes brand is the most important thing to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Parts on Order

Well, I placed an order with AutohausAZ and should have everything sometime next week. Here is what I ordered:

Chain Tensioner
Both cam sprockets
Cam tube oiler kits
Tensioner rail
Three chain guides
Valve cover gaskets
Cover bolt copper washers

I am going on vacation and it will be after Turkey Day before I can replace everything. I will update the thread with the outcome and some pictures.

Thanks for all the input! I been on many forums before and I have to say that this a great bunch of enthusiasts around here. What I really like is that there isn't a whole lot of swearing here!
 

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Rowdie- Why? Have you had a bad experience with them? To date I've been pleased with my two orders, but I'd like your opinion. Ned
 

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Think he means buy the MB vice the Febi tensioner
 
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