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98' S320, 93' Mazda Miata
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me first say that it's basically because of this and the W210 forum that I finally decided I could own as complicated of a car as my S320 is! I give all of you that do the DIY writeups a huge thank you. Now, onto the meat of the matter...

Bought a 1998 S320 about 6 months ago. The car has never shifted quite like I thought it should, so I picked up the should-be-included-with-the-car dipstick. Low and behold, the fluid is below the recommended range when hot! (It lives directly in the middle of the cold and hot ranges.) The car has about 125,000 miles now, and the fluid is brown and appears to have never been changed. Also, it had a 'red tab' on the cap when I bought the car, so who knows what has happened in history...

Here's my parts list so far:
  • 9 quarts MB 001 989 21 03 10 "Unicorn Tears"..er..722.6 tramsission fluid
  • URO Trans Conductor Plate Plug 203 540 02 53 (no leak detected, however it's cheap insurance.)
  • Mann 140 270 00 98 Trans Filter and Gasket
  • MB 140 271 00 60 O-Ring for Drain Plug

After reading for hours on all the threads I can find, I'm wondering about some things:

Regulator spring
Should I do this for good measure? Everyone says it's cheap, but nothing my car does indicates this is bad...​
Torque Converter Lockup
When on the freeway at cruise, if I step on the gas to accelerate the transmission will go up in RPM as if it were floating out of lockup, then seem to 'catch' back into lockup. Does anyone have an opinion on why this is occuring? I'm tempted to wait until I do the service to see if it cures the problem, but given the cost of the fluid (and my not-bottomless wallet) I'd love to know if it's something specific and order the part before I open things up.​
Torque Converter Draining
Does the 1998 722.6 have the TC Drain Plug? I keep reading conflicting information. If so, does it use the same copper gasket as the main drain plug? Again, like to have all the parts before I start...​

STAR Diagnostic tools
I'm having a hard time swallowing the cost of some of the diagnostic systems I see online since I'll need to use the tool, I hope, very rarely. Is there anyone that reads this in the Seattle area that has a STAR system that would enjoy some beer or a nice lunch in exchange for a bit of time hooking their tool up to my car? In addition to wanting to verify that everything is 'in-spec,' I need to change the variance coding on my PSE pump (lumbar is acting up). Alternatively, does anyone have a source for the cables, multipexer, and software for a decent deal?​

Thanks all for your insight!
-Jason
 

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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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682 Posts
Just did my '97 S320 last weekend - 722.6.

Before fluid change at 211k mi (bought at 204k mi):
1) fluid that did drip on white paper didn't have much red left
2) shifting pretty much ok - downshift from 2 to 1st clunked sometimes
3) at hot, fluid was 1/2 way between min/max on the 80C section

After (bucket had liter marks):

1) drained 2.75 liters from pan
2) drained 4 liters TC - from You most likely have a Torque Conv drain plug, because I did - it and the pan had aluminum washers - I reused them - dealer gave me a larger copper washer, but I decided not to use it
3) put in 5 liters, started, idled 2 min's, stopped
4) put in 2 more liters, drove around for 10 min's
5) level not quite at min mark - added a little more to bring it up
 

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SEC 600 V12 2dr COUPE (RHD) One of the chosen few.
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2,233 Posts
TC drain plug has a copper washer but it is not the same size , you should do the spring when you drop the pan.. there are some pics here somewhere of when i did mine (trans on a mission ) i think it is . do it with the oil warm not to hot so it drains properly .. take EXTRA care with the electric plugs on the gearbox .. make sure you undo them gently and do them up tight. do not rotate the engine at any time in reverse must always move in same direction (timeing chain) Take pics every step of the way so you can reverse engineer it if you have to wear gloves keep everything as clean as you can and if you can drop a SMALL magnet in the pan. near the drain hole
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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3,104 Posts
Here's a DIY which will cover your Oil/Filter/Torque Converter/Spring/Plug Bushing portions of what you want to do: (just igore the Conductor plate portion)


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1474350-photo-diy-722-6-conductor-plate.html


And, yes, the T/C Sealing ring "should" be Aluminium. The old part# N007603010101 has been superseeded by N007603010100 which IS Alu. And yes, you "should" have a T/C Drain Plug.

And to answer your other question, "I" would do the service, and then go from there.

Have fun!

G
 

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98' S320, 93' Mazda Miata
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your fast replies!

G,

I read your DIY last night, and it's good enough that I could probably walk someone through the process on the phone despite never having done it myself! Does the valve body need to come out to do just the spring? The garage I will be using does not have the cleanest environment, so to take the valve body out makes me slightly nervous. (Though not as nervous as having it break...)
 

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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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682 Posts
A couple more tips:

1) I usually drive the car on ramp. This gives you enough room to work under, but I discovered with my '84 300DT when training its TC, and it's the same with the 140, that the TC's drain plug is not at the very bottom of the TC (see my hi-tech diagram - the little red line is where the plug is), because towards the bottom of the TC, it's beveled, and the plug is on the bevel. If you tilt the front of the car up a certain amount, the plug becomes more pointed straight to the ground, meaning you can drain a few more ml.

2) I usually find "someone" to crank the engine ever so slightly while I'm under it (IN PARK, EMERGENCY BRAKE ON). I got REAL lucky last weekend - only took 1 mini-crank.

3) Don't forget that after you remove the pan, you'll still need something to catch the many, many drips from the valve body - I didn't think of that the first one I did. AND there will still be some fluid in the pan.
 

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'04 G55 '80 280GE '99 S420 '98 E320 2011 E350 2016 GLA250
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Does the valve body need to come out to do just the spring? QUOTE]

No! You can do it In Situ.

Dirty Garage? Clean it up first... especially dust, and other possible "airborne" contaminants.
 
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