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Premium Member
2015 ML250 Bluetec and 1987 560SL
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3,607 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The last couple of times I've started the 560SL, it gave me the rattle that speaks of a failing timing chain tensioner....but didn't die. I decided to quit playing Russian roulette with my engine and take a look at the guides.

2643914


I'm fairly sure it's never been touched. The car has just under 124K miles on it.

So, time to buy guides, tensioner, chain, and camshaft sprockets, right? What's the current recommendation on parts: Febi, OEM,...?

Also...I couldn't get the left bank cover out of the engine compartment. The picture above has it lifted at the front, but I couldn't lift the back enough to get it to clear:

2643915


Do I have to disconnect the fuel hoses going over the top, or that big A/C hose that's right up against the back on the right of the picture? I sure hope not...

Anyway, the car's down until I get the job done. Not going to crank it again. I'd just as soon not grenade the engine, thank you very much.
 

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1987 560SL (L.Tonk) [92,700 miles]
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349 Posts
I disconnected the fuel hoses but not the AC hose.
Happily it was easier to get back on than take off.


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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,700 Posts
OEM tensioners are definitely the best but if you do low mileage FEBI should last 20,000 miles and they are way cheaper.
 

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Registered
1998 C280; 1987 560SL
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547 Posts
I disconnect the fuel hoses going to the cooler on the AC line and the vacuum line off the booster. Loosen the gas cap and let the pressure off the tank before loosening the fuel hoses. Unless you want a gasoline baptism. :D
 

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1981 380SL
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414 Posts
I used the Febi kit on my 380 (single row) last year. I was very happy with it, but the tensioner isn’t the best. If I don’t start it for a week or so I hear a bit of slap while it gets pressurized.
 

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Registered
1986 560SL, 1993 Isuzu Bighorn (RHD & Diesel)
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35 Posts
I used all Mercedes parts except for the chain (Iwis), gears (Febi), and tensioner (Febi). With the Tensioner I would rather save the money and just put a new one on every two years, they aren't hard to do. Also buy the valve cover gaskets, copper washers, extra timing chain link, pin puller, 2X camshaft oiler kits, 3 feet of vacuum hose (in case you break one), and rubber vacuum to connect them. I bought this puller but paid $24.80 Mercedes Benz & BMW Guide Rail Pin Puller F/H | eBay

I bought all the parts from
eBay.com

Edit: I also put in new spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, and distributor rotor.
This seller will actually sent me the right plugs, 2 other sellers sent me resistor plugs because they superseded the BP5ES.
 

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Premium Member
2015 ML250 Bluetec and 1987 560SL
Joined
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3,607 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I wound up buying Febi stuff. It should do the job.

So this morning I was going to go out and see how much I could get done. I started to pull the right side valve cover, but then discovered these:

Right valve cover vacuum lines.jpg


They run from somewhere inaccessible in the valley to somewhere inaccessible under the coolant overflow tank. (Protip: if you disconnect the coolant line at the top of the overflow tank, be sure to prop it up somewhere that it's not pointing down, lest it drain coolant from the radiator.) I think they'll unplug from the dingus under the coolant tank, but would feel better knowing that that's what's supposed to happen.

Meanwhile, there's lots of other stuff I can remove: PS pump, fan, distributor, alternator, left valve cover...
 

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Registered
1986 560SL, 1993 Isuzu Bighorn (RHD & Diesel)
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35 Posts
For my 560SL they were already cut and connected with rubber house.
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,700 Posts
I wound up buying Febi stuff. It should do the job.

So this morning I was going to go out and see how much I could get done. I started to pull the right side valve cover, but then discovered these:

View attachment 2644731

They run from somewhere inaccessible in the valley to somewhere inaccessible under the coolant overflow tank. (Protip: if you disconnect the coolant line at the top of the overflow tank, be sure to prop it up somewhere that it's not pointing down, lest it drain coolant from the radiator.) I think they'll unplug from the dingus under the coolant tank, but would feel better knowing that that's what's supposed to happen.

Meanwhile, there's lots of other stuff I can remove: PS pump, fan, distributor, alternator, left valve cover...
They look like they are the original striped lines. The vac diagram will tell you where they go. However, be aware that the diagram is schematic and does'nt show the location of all the bits. Having said that however the lines look like they go into the central area that will be much more visible when you remove everything for you chain job.
 

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'79 450SL, '04 CLK200 convertible; former A124, W210, A209.
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2,116 Posts
The hoses do look factory but it's hard to believe this is the original routing path, over the valve cover? That's a lot of cables and hoses compared to my vanilla 79 450SL, hopefully another 560 owenr will chime in.
 

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Registered
1987 560SL
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25 Posts
Mine are the same cut with connector rubber hoses but not in exactly the same place as WhiteSpyders which makes me think that it did not come from the factory like this but gets cut by a mechanic when the valve cover has to come off.
 

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1989 560SL
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144 Posts
Mine are also intact and routed through the holders. IIRC, disconnect them under the coolant tank but be careful as they are likely brittle.



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Premium Member
2015 ML250 Bluetec and 1987 560SL
Joined
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3,607 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm just going to cut them and splice with rubber hose. I don't trust things under the coolant tank to unplug and then plug in again cleanly without breaking.
 

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Registered
1986 560SL
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38 Posts
You can just unscrew the entire little solenoid under the coolant tank that those hoses connect to and move it up and over the valve cover. That's how I handled it. No need to disconnect any hoses. But, I had already drained the coolant as I was changing it also.
 
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