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· Registered
2000 ML320
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It takes like 4+ seconds, even with my foot down to the gas pedal floor, for the car to respond and accelerate. I guess you can call it a throttle lag or something. I have no CELs, installed new bosch plugs and cables, new air filter, changed oil/filter recently, flushed transmission fluid and replaced filter, and flushed coolant. Yes, i used only factory specific fluids. But anyways this problem isn't new. I am just wondering what might cause this. The only other problems with my car is that the fuel gauge isn't working properly (surprise surprise) and charcoal canister is clogged (can't fill my tank up). I am guessing those two might be the culprits but before I tackle that I wanted to see what you guys think? BTW my car has 58k total miles on it.

Thanks
 

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
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17,942 Posts
The first thing to do is check the condition of your air filter and see if it is dirty and restricted. If not............

The second thing to do is check the operation of the MAF Sensor.

While the truck is running, remove the elec. connector to the MAF Sensor. Was there any discernible difference in the running of the engine?

Regardless of the outcome, attempt to move from a stopped position. Was it the same or did it get worse?

Regardless of that outcome, shut the eng. off and remove the two screws to the MAF with the appropriate socket. They used various Torx screws, one of which was tamper-proof. In either case buy the Lisle Tamper-proof set as it will work on both.

Remove the MAF insert and at the bottom of it will be a square cut out. In that cut out will be a thin wire which should be bright silver. If it isn't and covered with soot, you must buy CRC MAF Cleaner to clean that wire.

Post back with results.
 

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2000 ML320
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
@43sqd

Ok so here is what I tried

1) checked air filter => clean and no obstructions seen

2) I disconnected the MAF and drove the car => From a stopped position the car took the same amount of time for throttle to respond and thereafter acceleration was noticeably slower (so it got worse after disconnecting the MAF)

3) I removed the MAF sensor and upon inspection, the wire seemed clean but I cleaned it with CRC anyways => Cleaning made no difference

I also want to add that I just found out that my wife has been filling the car with 87 octane. Could that be a contributing factor? Also, the only sensor that I had ever changed on this car was the MAF, but that was 5 or 6 years ago. I know I should start small and work my way up and "shot-gunning" the problem will make it worse, but should I look at the fuel injectors and 02 sensors? For now I am going to run the tank empty and refill with 91 and see what happens. Anyways thanks for helping me out on this :)
 

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
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If you started the eng. cold and immediately took off, does the problem get better or remain the same?

When the eng. is fully warmed, what is you idle speed?

At idle speed, is there any shaking or rough running of the engine?

Fully warmed and at idle speed, spay a small amount of the CRC on the area between the MAF and intake pipe (#116) and do the same for area #95 . Is there any increase in idle speed?

What was the exact reason why you replaced the MAF 5 yrs. ago?

Do you have a DVOM?
 

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2000 ML320
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When I start the engine cold and take off, the problem gets a little better when the engine warms up from driving. From 4 seconds it goes down to 2-3 and at a few times it was almost instantly.

From cold start the RPM goes up to 1.5K rpm and then slowly drops down to 800-900 rpm

I didn't see any significant changes when spraying with CRC on the areas you suggested

5 years ago I had a CEL and I was experiencing really poor acceleration. The Indy shop that I took it too told me I had a faulty MAF. I changed it myself with a BOSCH MAF that I bought from the stealer. Replacement solved the issue.

No, I don't own a DVOM.

Thanks for that diagram.
 

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
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17,942 Posts
The next thing is to check the Electronic Throttle Actuator and to do so you will have to remove the Air Intake Pipe. You now have two choices, remove the pipe once to visually check the ETA and conduct tests, or do it twice until you get a DVOM.

You must remove the pipe but it is important to not break the upper or lower clips. After removal you can only see the actuator (faces rearward) with the use of a large mirror.

First look at the overall cleanliness of the ETA, especially the top and bottom of the flap/butterfly. Then have someone turn the key to pos. #2 while you are looking at the flap. It should quickly open slightly and then return to the starting position.

If the ETA is very dirty you should remove it and clean with Brake Cleaner and rag only, O-ring needed (#305 997 03 45).

Regardless of the condition of the ETA, tests with a DVOM should be conducted on the Pedal Value Sensor and the ETA at the ECM located in the fuse relay box.
 

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2000 ML320
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@43sqd



So I examined the ETA and it looked pretty clean and I didn't see any obstructions or build up. As for the flap, it moved instantly and returned to its original position. My buddy also confirmed this to me when he examined it.

Next week my cousin is coming over and I asked him to bring his DVOM. When he does I will report back asap and I will follow the directions you provided from the pdf.

Thank you!
 

· Outstanding Contributor
2006 ML500 2002 ML320
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@43sqd



So I examined the ETA and it looked pretty clean and I didn't see any obstructions or build up. As for the flap, it moved instantly and returned to its original position. My buddy also confirmed this to me when he examined it.

Next week my cousin is coming over and I asked him to bring his DVOM. When he does I will report back asap and I will follow the directions you provided from the pdf.

Thank you!
See if you can delay the tests until after the fuel pump and filter have been installed.
 

· Registered
2000 ML320
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so i ordered the new pump, hoses, straps, filter, and pliers. I will get them in a couple of days, however, I am still waiting on my job when I can get my vacation time. I'll post back when I get scheduled for my week off vacation. Might be a while though.....:(

Thanks
 

· Registered
2000 ML320
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330 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, I finally got around to changing my fuel pump assembly (new filter, lines, and pump). Took me a few hours to do but wasn't too hard. Fuel gauge finally reports accurate readings and it seems to fix my acceleration problem as well. It's pretty snappy and the engine sounds a bit smoother when starting up. Anyways I am happy it works. Now for how long?? I don't know hahaha. My next project will be getting powered front seats. Those manual wheel crank seats are a pita.
If anyone has front (driver and passenger) black powered seats from MY 1999-2000, hit me up with a PM.

Thanks
 

· Premium Member
1999 ML430 and 2003 ML55
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2,299 Posts
Seems like you got your main issue resolved. Congratulations.........

Haven't seen many of the manual seats. I am assuming they are the grey fabric seats with vinyl bolsters. Saw a BASE ML320
at an Atlanta dealer back in 1999 and I kinda' liked the spartan/utilitarian look of it. Does your ML have power windows ?

As far as your search for seats, occasionally you will see them on e-bay and they are expensive, but available. Of course shipping is expensive, so your best bet is to try to find a set locally for pickup. Fairly certain that you currently have the proper wiring harness
under your carpet for the powered seats. All you should really need is to check is the fuse box for the proper fuse location for the seats.
 

· Registered
2002 ML55, 185k miles
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79 Posts
Hello Everyone,

I just wanted to add for anyone experiencing this Throttle Delay behavior, that my ML55 was also experiencing this issue each day as I came to speed bump that would trigger it to occur. I've been hitting this bump for about 5 years every day, and the shock of hitting that speed bump at about 30-35mph must have over time caused the issue, as it began one day about 6 months ago. The throttle would start off normal after starting the engine, and then after hitting the speed bump, there was no increase response from the throttle for about 2-3 seconds. If you were to let off the throttle the response was normal and no delay was experienced. Needless to say, driving this way is quite the adventure.

After experiencing this and triggering the issue routinely, I began searching here in the Forums and ended up having a seeing the Accelerator Pedal sensor recommended being swapped out, so I had that installed and experienced no change. As luck would have it, I had the EGR replaced shortly after the last service, and after the EGR was replaced and I could not trigger the issue for 2-3 weeks. I thought the issue was sorted out but the delay came back. At the time of that service visit the Indy mentioned that I needed a new Gasket between the Air Intake tube and the Throttle Body. I went ahead and ordered a new Gasket and used TB from ebay in hopes that that would take care of the issue, as the TB was also suggested in a different thread, but after those were swapped in, no change was noticed.

Next up, was a thread mentioning to change the Engine and Transmission mounts. I had those inspected during the Transmission flush visit and decided to replace those as well, and after having those installed, no luck as well. This was turning into a classic case of throwing parts at the problem which I know is frowned upon, but my only Mechanic was not able to pinpoint the problem.

Back to digging in the Forum, the last suggestion I found in other Delayed Throttle threads was to change out the MAF, so what have I got to loose at this point? Luckily here in Korea, most of the shops will NOT charge you a single Won/Dollar if they don't fix a problem like this issue, even if they worked on the car for 3 days straight which they did. I love that that is how it works here, so up to this point I was only out the Pedal sensor, used Throttle Body and Mounts in Parts costs.

On to closing this saga out. The MAF was ordered and after being installed, and the problem was gone, no return of the Delayed Throttle in over 3 months. The ML55 seems to be a bit sharper now on throttle response, maybe 10% better response but I could be imagining things. Fuel mileage may have improved as well.

Also, every now and then I would get a idle stumble when just parked, were the engine would drop in revs for a split second and recover to normal revs 2-3 times in a 1 minute period of time. That odd idle is now gone and I don't know if swapping the TB fixed that or the MAF, but I think it was the MAF. I also had the voltage regulator replaced as the ML has 185k on it and the alternator is original, so don't know if it could have been electrical system related.

Hope this helps anyone experiencing this issue.
 

· Registered
2002 ML55, 185k miles
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79 Posts
Lol, I deserve that for my tardiness.

But the point of any Forum, and what is often missed, is that many Users never feel the need to post. They will come here to quickly Research a problem quickly and be on their way attempting the fix. In that respect, Time is irrelevant.
In researching issues in my ML, I will go back 15 years in threads and they still offer value and clues... ;)
 
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